cowie165

Thanks Duncan, thanks JimiH! Hi Lucien. No problems, but now I'm replacing those sills that were crushed I'm having the entire car painted. This means I'll be keeping her a long time and I'm keen to take the engine out and replace every hose I can get my fat little fingers on. I'll renew the pumps and will change the timing belt, even though it looks like it has already been done. It doesn't HAVE to come out, just thought it might be easier to do so. I'd like to repaint the engine covers and the inlet plenum too. *shrugs shoulders* Just thinking out loud when the opportunity arose Mark

I've heard/read that taking the engine out the bottom is much easier/simpler but I'll need to take the engine out in the home garage. THanks for the reply Duncan

Whilst we're talking about engines coming out, is it difficult for a pair of home mechanics to lift it out? What size crane would you need please?

still looking pls

still looking pls

Scott if he is still stripping the car, please report back with your findings! (ie what's left!) Mark

Guys, Sambo hasn't been on SAU since mid-April. You may wait a while for a response.

Standard air pressure at sea level on a 15'C day is 101.3kPa, or 1Bar. That's 14.7psi iirc. Give or take a little based on daily changes. Yep, the gauge will only display something other than zero when the engine is running :uh-huh: but 1psi is the air pressure at around 28,000ft. Mark

Mine is lifting. Looking for a dash without any lifting, cracks, scratches or drill holes. If you can help, please PM. Ready to do business and pickup this Friday. Mark

RAWS stands for Registered Automotive Workshop Scheme (iirc). The RAWS are the guys that use SEVS to import a vehicle on your behalf. They will liaise with DOTARS, arrange for import approval. The vehicle will be sent directly to their workshop and returned to stock/standard and complied before you are allowed to drive it anywhere. Any performance parts are to be destroyed (not resold/refitted) and this is in legislation. We all know plenty of guys take the upgrade parts off, have the engineer look over the car/just in case the DOTARS rep chooses to inspect that particular vehicle, and then replace the parts. It's a stupid rule. With respect, you need to have a good look over the DOTARS import web pages, and also check out the import folder here, there is LOTS of great info and knowledgable (sp?) guys around to assist. Guys with R33/R34 would be the best guys to talk to for SEVS/RAWS info. Afaik, there are only a few RAWS endorsed by DOTARS atm. The process takes anywhere up to 2 years for some workshops. Until recently, the only R32 RAWS was a dealership in Brisbane that only complied cars that were going onto their showroom/yard. Hope that helps, and if anyone out there has a different take/better info, feel free to correct, Cheers Mark

Hi Heath! Mate she's in the shop having the outer sills repaired/replaced. Pita of a job apparently. They have to paint the rear quarters because of the nature of the job, so I've decided to have the paint shop spray the whole car. I'm replacing all the rubber around the windshields and a few other exterior trims. Should come up nicely. It's the same painter that sprayed twoogle, two.06l. He did a great job on Paul's GTR and I'm looking forward to getting mine back shortly. Any updates in your GTR thread? Been checking back but no news!? (Sorry about the hijack Andrew)

Lucien/lwells started a thread a long way back in the General Maintenance section. It lists all the fluids, has a bit of discussion, and current equivalents. Search for threads started by lwells and it's called R32 GTR Fluids and Oils or something like that. The manual has the compression figures too. From memory it was 180 when new, and should be a min of 140-145 (160 is about average) plus or minus 5 across the cylinders. I'd confirm the figures for you but the manual isn't saved on this comp. Mark

Andrew if you're still interested in ATTESSA info, I have a stock R32 that will torque split in first, sometimes second in a straight line, and easily split in second going around a corner. IMO you should take the advice of the guys that have suggested full fluid change, regardless of what the yard mechanic said. It can't hurt to have another oil change. When my car arrived the ATTESSA reservoir was empty (read: dry), the transfer had 80W90 gearbox oil and the gearbox itself had a perished rear seal and some VERY old 75W90 in it.. Nice purchase by the way, hurrah for KH2 Mark Btw: double-check those rotors, they are prob the cause for the sucky braking. Mine were pitted, grooved, and 0.4mm undersize.

Cheers Gareth, that's what I was thinking of.

Use SEVS. The later model car will be in better shape all 'round. As you're looking for a stockish car, that won't be a problem, just finding a RAWS will be the biggest hassle... Pretty much everything is shagged on an 89 model. Bushes, motors, turbos, hoses, rotors/pads, fluids, etc. I'm just passing on the 1989 perspective. Perhaps make a post in the Skyline specific discussion folder and get some 93/94 guys to share what their cars are like. There is most likely more late-model cars available for you to choose from as Aust and Canada have sucked up most of the 89 models. Any decent 89's would have long gone from Japan IMO. My 2.2c, Mark

I am using a 9827 and the fm reception is satisfactory. You have connected the antenna with an adapter plug, right? Apparently if you also reconnect the factory amp back up to your new HU there is an fm booster in there. My memory is a bit vague, have a read through the R32 Stereo Installation sticky. Mark

Could the fuel pump have died? Just guessing here but it may not be able to flow sufficient fuel over the 4500rpm range? Mark I had a 180SX that did the same thing and turned out the pump was the problem.

:werd: Bazelinez is a wise man, heed his words Baze even though I said I tried your fix and no joy, after further fiddling, it did turn out to be the cause If you can't juryrig it by stretching the spring, you'll need a new one. $195 from Mr Nissan or $45 from JustJap. Maybe cheaper from one of the guys wrecking an R32? I never found anything with a ballbearing and spring, but the switch that Bazelinez is talking about is attached to the rotary headlight dial/switch/knob and has three or four tiny screws holding it in behind the dash. Mark

:werd: Bazelinez is a wise man Baze even though I said I tried your fix and no joy, after further fiddling, it did turn out to be the cause If you can't juryrig it by stretching the spring, you'll new a new one. $195 from Mr Nissan or $45 from JustJap. Maybe cheaper from one of the guys wrecking an R32? I never found anything with a ballbearing and spring, but the switch that Bazelinez is talking about is attached to the rotary headlight dial/switch/knob and has three or four tiny screws holding it in behind the dash. Mark

Whilst we're keeping the thread informative: defamation is a false statement maliciously made to injure another's reputation. slander is oral communication of such statements libel is written/printed/etc. communication of such statements So when Michael alleged that the MAGIC cats will not pass an emission test, his statement only becomes libel if MAGIC cats are proven to pass the tests; therefore Michael's statement has been proven false. Up until then, as someone pointed out, it's just heresay. Mark PS That's not to say Michael's statement will be proven false, that was just a way to explain the terms cause a lot of guys have them mixed up.

It has been a while since I did any electronics... How do you go about putting the ammeter in series with the battery? 1. Disconnect -ve 2. Tape? the disconnected terminal to the +ve probe, then jam the -ve probe into the battery? Is that right? Is there a tidier way to do things? I think one of my reversing lights is draining the system. Mark

The RTA doesn't seem to pay much attention to detail. If I read that list right, P-platers can still drive an 89 model 300ZX TT and an R32 GTR built between 89 and 91? But they're banned from driving an automatic R33 GTR! Nice one RTA. I don't imagine Constable Plod will give a stuff (that your 1989 GTSt isn't banned) , but you could argue it in court! Mark

Googled rslibertyclub and came up trumps, thanks for the link Nathan, cheers!

Thanks for the reply Bazelinez, we need the wagon for surf/snowboards and kids gear too. Finally found the RAWS index and the GT-B is ineligible. D'oh. Trading post here we come...

My Seaway/Kiwi invoice totalled $1290.09 (variations due to exchange rate). The road freight is $400 less a $250 rebate, from memory. That will have the car dropped at the Melbourne depot. If you want it shipped to your house, the can arrange for another truck to move it depot -> your place. I had mine moved depot -> workshop as I wasn't keen on driving it myself and don't have access to a vehicle trailer. The $1800 seems a bit high. Some customs agents charge for the aircon exemption even though they don't have to do anything. Perhaps just email Ben rather than guess? Jspec seem like straight up guys, you/we may have missed another fee somewhere? Mark