GeeTR

I think Dave meant "anti drain back" valve, as all filters have relief valves (diverts oil around filtration element when the filter gets clogged) AFAIK What do you mean by 'appropriate order' ?

No offence, but I honestly think, if you cant figure out how to install a bleeder to your import by understanding the dynamics, or find the answer on the interweb, you should be taking it to a mechanic.

New copper crush washer and 'two finger rule' dood. "how ever tight you can get it with two fingers at the end of the spanner / ratchet" As per another recent thread on SAU, DO NOT use a tool to tighten up the filter. Oil the new filters o-ring, make sure the seat is clean and just do up with moderate force. snapping / stripping that center lug is for Silvia drivers jk

...and I believe the new units are denoted by having a black input box, instead of beige.

Assuming your talkn about the hose thats closest to the lense (phone) in pic 1. Looks like it connects to the intake track between AFM and turbo; block it off.

Nissan quote 15 hours. Skilled elite with proper tools can take less then 6 hours. Mechanic rates are ~$90 / hour. Retune depends on if you are / are not, fitting stock tahibins on.

Do motor cyclists annoy u ppl, with their headlight always on?

HICAS solenoid's, valve and rear rack removal is a hugely common process - search harder. Essentially your feeding the rear stage of the PS pump through he stock fined fluid cooler, then back to the reservoir. As the rear stage is now pushing against no resistance, simple hose clamps can be employed. Oh and wrong section.

Iv seen turbos with a lot of axial plane movement make a "whipped snipper" sound on boost; like a pulse.

5000c / 6000 with moments of 9000c

Looks like the variable intake cam solenoid from a SR20 lol. Or the AC idle correction valve? ...How ever useful that is haha.

I'm sure someone who's set one up can shout out, im just thinking aloud. From using others, the numbers needed to get the target boost is different per turbo / waste gate / setup. The gain number required, is a balance between getting the turbo to ramp as hard as possible but not overshoot.

Hey dood, the link was to WA's Xspeed They have a good assortment of PDF's. They dont seem to have one for the i-Colour though Incidently, i cannot reach that page anymore. I think they detected something accessing the PDF file directly- whoops! sorry xSpeed

Theres a better one somewhere, but this could be a better indicator. You run a gt3582 no? low 11s maybe.

Rich... by 4.35% one would think

I havent install mine yet but... Press menu, then select the boost menu by pressing the dial. Here you can select the boost channel, set auto / manual and set the set and gain. By surge, do you mean a boost "spike" as it ramps onto boost and overshoots the target boost?

Good response Guilt Toy - thanks! I think you may be correct, older units mighta had some bugs. (Id heard of another guy that experianced bugs too... though thats 2nd hand info) Will wonder down there and have a chat with pete, truly would rather support a local business

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This could help

How many hours as the sensor seen, how old is the sensor, have you checked it against a known good unit for accuracy and response time recently.

Id glass my neighbor if they idled their stock 34 every morning for 10mins. - Start, idle 20s from cold, drive gently for 5mins - done. - Don't load the car up 5 mins before stopping - done.

Hrrrm - decisions. Maybe its true, you cant get a full house 5wire controller for under $2.5K

I'm a proud hippy vegan hitchhiker bum, but i once slept under a HPI magazine, featuring a Daihatsu GTR with RC26DETT... so i definitely know what your talking bout brother. No idea why your setup flutters under partial throttle, but not with your BOV's sealed up... but then your mechanic suggested you have a external gate hooked up... so anything could be possible Zip and post, or just change the file extension.

Not entirely, would be pretty impressive if they run that coffee machine pump for a good few years without issue. Also, the IC intercool spray pulled like 25% more heat from the intake charge, then WI! lol. Proper WI in the US is pretty big. Its essentially another whole fuel system, rail, injectors, reg etc. They add a water soluble oil to the water to allow Petroleum hardware to work and not rust. They run real 40% water : fuel ratios, not the 65 ml/minute AS.com are trying.