GeeTR

wtf - manuals ppl, be sure to read the f'n manual - try here As for the ticking sound; is it actually coming from the solenoid or not???? Use a screw driver to the ear. They should really only hum, or buzz - Describe the "tick sound - slow, fast, constant with boost, revs what...?

Fantastic!! thanks Geoff

The age and of condition of the sensor plays a role i think, though i try and keep it all relative. If your used to seeing 15/20 and recently it through a 60, then id 100% look into it. (assuming this figure wasn't at gear change or something) I reckon you shud set the warning to go off at 40 too; in a mates car, I could hear knock before the check light came up (was set at 60) You haven't mentioned what the motor was doing when it flashed 60.

5k regardless. Older turbo'd motors (so like ALL Skylines) will pollute their oil pretty quick i reckon.

Smashing the honeycomb out, as a topic has been done to death, please look around. Pull your cat out, if its caved in, smash it out as a testing process. If it fix's the issue yourself and your mechanic are getting, then replace it with a larger unit. Yes - having no cat will improve top end, yes - it will bring in boost in harder and earlier, yes- you'll get yellow stains on your paint and blow flame if your car pops and farts, and yes it 'could' get you a $20k fine (though iv never heard of anyone actually getting it )

Your close, though narrow and wide bands sensors work in fundamentally different ways leaving WB's, far more sensitive. Exhaust temp at the stock NB location would exceed 500 on even a stockish car often. Id mount it further down the dump pipe (theres been a recent thread on SAU re: this, have a look) That said, I think Sydneykid runs his WB in the stock NB location with no issues. Worst case, the LC1 (as with most controllers) will warn you if the sensors going over its temperature limit. Rem too, you can use commonly available sensor heatsinks.

Iv found applying what ever rust penetrator your using, on the sensor every day for a week does the trick. That or whipping up a ghetto pipe spanner like Dunc's

Yah, battery or fouled plugs would be a good place to start. A quick clean with carbon deposit removal solvent (TB cleaner) would prolly suffice. You need to then take the car for a decent few WOT runs to burn the rest of the shite off them.

By play, do you mean wiggle around? If the output is fluctuating when your just moving the wires around, you must have a dodgy connection. Check the pins of the plug your using maybe? Sounds odd. Does the bender need to be told the type of AFM installed? Did the car start before you swapped plugs over, as if it did, and now your have wired the STD AFM back in exactly the same fashion... you might have killed something. EDIT: I notice power and signal are similar colors, red and orange with black trace. That would (i think) give 100% output if you accidentally mixed em up.

~100km more and Night & Day difference in response. Its a no brainer really, a properly tuned car is a beautiful thing.

Please link to which tute your using. Sounds like an wiring issue and your feeding 5v straight into the loom side signal wire, hence showing 100%.

Fat racing leads have no real place in a street car with an audio system. Trying to get an after market coil under the stock cam cover piece, is the best idea me thinks. Niiiice

Gawd, this thread.

6?? Daeem. They're not going on you, due to some other issue? Like oil supply or something??

Veedddy interesting indeed

To clarify OP, "remove SAF" meant to uninstall correctly, solder heat shrink the straight connections (where the bender wasn't spliced but sits in the middle)

I think you would find it would run out of its efficiency window well before you reach its physical boost limit. Get a wideband up it and find out low / mid 20's

Diagnose why its sticking, then fix or replace

I didn't think so. I figured the hall effect setup on each wheel was used to feed the ECU, HICAS, ATESSA etc, but would be awesome to actually know concretely.

Yah, they're more like books. Such a pot of quality information. Though if its the one i think it is, they're pretty old. So many advertisements for awesome looking gear thats just not made anymore. Better then pron

Figure out if its the peddle or the TB that is sticking. Disconnect your cable from the TB (throttle body) if need be - process of illumination. I doubt your cable needs lubing.

A 10 in a GTR on pump should be a walk in the park. Giants is a good example of a 400+ track car doing a 10 on it.

If you drive so it never comes on boost, the PFC will never know the difference. That said a few pounds would be safe i would think as you've still got a mass airflow based AFM setup.

If you could!!! Iv done my crash course in fluid dynamics, but still believe without quantitative testing, its all gibberish and "what my best mates GF's baby sister did'ed full seek" Im still waiting for some bored mech eng student to produce some FAE models. This crap see,s like its up GTRGeoff's ally actually

LoL, i was quoting "BCU" to take the piss, butt they actually call it a "BCU" Checking the specs, id say its just a EBC A spike is were boost overshoots target boost for a moment, then settles again, usually due to aggressive gain. Does yours temporally hit 14, or does it stay rock solid at 14??