GeeTR

Thats a fair bita work.. how bout you take a picture and post it? Back of the plenum, or back end of the collection, collector pipe thingo? - could be MAP sender for console mounted pressure gauge.

Gauge -> mm for steel 15 -> 1.702mm 16 -> 1.524mm

Got one 20mins away.... Fyshwick Store locater

Femmo - Duno man, doesn't look like tape / butchers paper to me. Looks like black ABS plastic with a grey sheen due to the camera flash... looks kinda factory lookin? lol. A resonator is a "tuned space" (empty box) attached to the inlet track, used by manufacture to try and tune intake resonance drone out of the system. Theres nothing factory that takes in air from that brake duct.. hence filling it up.

Iv said it before, but Redline in my 19yo g.box completely transformed it. I'm no gear box rebuilder and it could very well be harmful to it somehow. Highly recommended for older units.

Lightly leaking at idle doesn't affect the factory setup as its "leaking" back through the BOV return and being ingested after the AFM, before the turbo. As such, it doesnt get measure twice, nor get "lost" to atmo. My old GTR BOV's are very soft. The design in principle is to soften or smoothen the boost / vacuum transition i would imagine.

it may be late but sorry, but are you saying you wacked some new plugs and splitfires in, and now it holds boost properly; without spikes? strange. Did you replace any lines, anything at all to do with boost control?

Rrrrraaandom SAU chat, meet couples, no commitment, call now.

I think they do a 12v, 20amp PWM kit, maybe the square wave would kick the 044 over? Yah, I reckon this is all too risky imo to try on my car without a closed loop failsafe as per a comment I made over 13 months ago. Even a voltage switch that kills the CAS if boost goes over 2psi with f.pump input lower then 13v should work. Interesting thread

Make sure they are EXACTLY the same ID width, I've once bought generics that leaked.

this thread made my morning

Teflon is sposed to not weep, though Ive heard examples of the smell being present. If you 100% want no smell, hard line it in the boot, or mount under car. If noise is unacceptable, the usual CNC f.pump bracket you see around wont cut it IMO. You'll need a way of really isolating vibration. Iv seen a R32 with the f.pump bracket mounted to to the surge tank, with the s.tank rubber mounted to the chassis.; was pretty quiet.

Decide where you want the WG exit to join back into the main exhaust, then have everything between flanged so you can remove later. Could you could use V-Clamp ends to speed up the process. Any decent exhaust place could do it.

Maybe Iridium flares?? Track em...

Ohh nooo's, the ugly Public Opinion fairy is about, dead carcases disappear with the wave of her wand

Why you selling up man, I rem you saying it completely transformed the car?? Not buying a Supra are ya? hah!

Whata ya know, something new every single day. Cheers Blitz n Paul

Lights need power, alternators make power... Use a screw driver to ear on the alternator and to be sure.

In regards to turbo size.... What RPM do you make full boost? When your changing gears and feeling this "lag" what RPM are the revs falling back to? Id thought the A:'s right there.

Are you switching the pump to a dirty earth, or its supply voltage (with a few resistors) ?? Can you quickly feed it max juice to see if its a voltage thing, or something else? Not a one way valve hooked up in the wrong orientation? lol. I thought they'd heat up as well... Silvia with RB30 single... your crazy btw hahaha.

I too was of the belief all GTR AFM's are the same. When was the car last running Ok, why did you change AFM's, what else could have changed that could have caused the doughyness?? Sure its the "tune" and not retarded CAS timing or etc? Clean the AFM plugs, reset ECU, check timing, check spark plugs etc.

what type of pump are you using for a lifter? Nice s.tank man

Fit the oil cooler when the oil starts getting too hot ...or taking a long time to dissipate after WOT. I found a BNR32 needs to be peddled pretty hard on the street to upset oil temps.

Np, I for the life of me cannot find any others bar the Innovative ones. Theres a Supra tuning mob in Colorado Springs, one of Titan Motorsport's competitors, that used to cut their own heatsinks. There was also a Honda place in Canada, Vteck Sports or something, that i swear used to hock them. Commonly available... as in from the US, not cheap from kmart I cant tell you if a heatsink would dissipate enough heat, as it depends a lot on your driving style and use for the car. Only recently i was reading a story bout a guy who had the sensor in a heatsink just before the CAT, and he was still killing them, so...

Good work, congrats