GeeTR

Thats the baffle i would assume to limit oil spray out the breathers. On SR's at least, they're only riveted on.... can you grind it off, remove clean and reattach with what ever?

Jeebuss, if your gauge is measuring 1.6 bar, id suggest thats what your actually running. I cant think of a way for the gauge to "see" more then actual. Sort the issue out quick smart. As mentioned, use some line (known GOOD stuff) from pressure source (plenuem?) to WG with the gauge T'd in between for testing. Could be a flapper issue, buts most likely a leak in the line to your WG.

Speedo cable is meaningless. The ECU takes the speed from the ABS wheel speed sensors. The actual wire that feeds into the ECU is a mean average of the wheel speed sensors from some type of aggregate box (HICAS?) though.

1UZ's a god motor for sure... but its 2 cyl's too many. Check youtube for insane 800-1300hp Patrols... ala

Umm, not it was more of an example for cars with manly sized turbos. Your stocker should be able to hit 10pound pretty quick in any gear when the peddles mashed.

You seemed to have missed the point, but thanks any-who Beau. EDIT: 5min of power Googleing had at least 5 ppl from SAU, Wikipedia and users from 3 different Skyline affiliated forums / sites say your incorrect... and non say you are correct. NVCS is on R33 25's, VCT is on the Neo's. Do you rem where you read about VVL?

In a R32 at least, undo 4 bolts on the viscous fan, unsecure the shroud from the radiator and anything else holding it on. Fan and shroud come out as one.

Load, as is the resistance to the tourqe being developed by the engine. As the turbo blows against the motor, pressure backs up, thats boost. Higher gears / big hills cause "load" or resistance on a motor -> which causes boost to back up quicker -> which causes increased exhaust flow -> in turn more boost. This is why when you mash the throttle at 100 in 4th your making target boost earlier then if you were rolling at 40 in 2nd.

Have you played with the gain, or are the settings out of the box (or auto) - list the the type of BCU and EBC you have. Did it only start doing this after your BCU and EBC?

Even the worst / poorly setup EBC should have no issues bleeding off a whole... 5psi. Unless gt2871r have a bad rep with soft springs and boost creep? Its the EBC's job to prevent boost creep and give adjustable boost. I don't understand this obsession with trying to get the gate spring pressure to within a poooftiinth of what you would like to run, is about Regardless, try it and see what happens first.

Lots of forum trawling you have in front of you, young jedi. Heat seems to be the factor that makes the glue that keeps the ceramic wheel on the steel shaft - fail. 1bar could be ok if you hit it every now and then on the street, but fail after your 3rd lap at a track where you see much more WOT with less cool down time. I personally believe the brass boost restricting olive isnt there for so your cousin can recommend a quick boost up, but more to smoothen out boost control. Its personal risk mitigation, if you can risk it, do it. If you dont like the remote possibilty of having to spend 5k on an engine rebuild, don't do it. As for boom, when the wheel falls over at 150,000 rpm, it can spew chunks and evil "ceramic dust" This can be sucked back into the motor causing MASSIVE abrasion wear between ring and bore. Let your search button do the walking for more info and experiences.

Oh, R34's switch? I thought they might gradually pull (like water temp correction) VCT - I meant to imply, variable cam timing (or any sort) was developed and used primarily by NA cars as a power adder (or to lower emissions, as i believe RB's are) before FI

The 8th run, the pink one, looks like AFR's go v.close to 12.8 just before the dip in power... in fact it looks dead on. From what i understand about NEO's with their compression, thats pretty lean. Could the ECU have pulled ignition due to knock?....assuming the IMPUL ECU keeps that functionally. My 2 cents EDIT: Lol, VCT is more of a NA, Vtac thang! It refers to the varying inlet camshaft timing.

You haven't found info about "opening injectors" because afaik, they are a NON serviceable part. You might of found this post about gluing them. The seals spoken about here are simply at the interface between rail <-> injector and injector <-> plenum, and will come off when you remove the injector. Disagree away, check the engine failure thread, MANY go bang 1bar Your millage may vary. Stg1 GT5 ftw Everyone has their experiences. Iv seen 3 BNR32's inda'flesh with catbacks make 205-220rwkw .64bar. This R33 with dumps, 1bar and a tune should "on paper" make more. I think ppl's are forgetting dyno to dyno figure can change 20kw or more in non shootout mode... let alone DIFFERENT branded dyno's or different country's... tune it, be happy.

... or you could edit the attached pinout and electrical schematic, add some nice "tag" words to the post, so this thread shows up when people search... that would be shhmick yes An ECU earth, a "reference" earth, uses a common ground on all the delicate sensors, tis important you use it.

Might be a way of keeping track of which ones have been tourqed to their nominated figure, verses those that are fitted for dummying purposes.

Nice work man, specially love that surge tank, hard lines and 044 holder. Is that being mounted in the boot or under the car? As you prolly know now, the Greddy Y pipes comes in two diff sizes. Keep up the awesome work. ... All these wicked build threads that iv missed lately, loving it!!

Damn Paul, thats a lengthy piece of literature, nice one

^^ Yup, though having access to a timing gun would give some peace of mind as well.

The dudes got a PFC ne way so...

Well AFAIK all Nissan's pre 96, use a 3/4" -16 filter fitting. A Z9 is the same (as confirmed on the Ryco site) as I run one on a billet filter mount which takes the 70mm base seal. Removal ease depends on where you decide to place the filter mount. Hope that helps.

Assuming the filter medium in both sized filters is the same porosity, I'd assume a smaller one would not flow as much, and get dirtier quicker. Stop valve in most filters should negate any "filling time" issues imo. The diff between the two you thinking of, would be negligible though i reckon. EDIT: What is the base seal diameter of the filter mount? Maybe you can get away with fitting a Z9

Ebay prolly isn't the place to be buying critical engine parts for your hipo import full stop.

Which seals are you referring to, as all new o-rings and insulators from Nissan are like $80.00 and are usually in stock. As said, i would check the indent i spoke of first though, its extremely common.

Best? I reckon PWR $ 'vs' quality, i reckon Koya's are a good balance.