GeeTR

Assuming this is legit, this must be up there with Giants BNR32 results. "N1's" (Undoubtedly modified) with greater then stock response, 400rwkw and 10s quarters? Makes ppl that fit singles, wanting less then 400kw's look like monkeys haahahah. ...Still in shock with a whiff of denial, I am.

Deatschwerks is like using a 2nd hand condom IMO. A new inj should outlast a engine rebuild, so running warm latex for 12 months with no issues, isn't such a strong test... imo.

This isn't $200/hour Japland My advice is, unless you REALLY want a name brand part, to have it fab'd by someone experienced. Pre-made stuff certainly has its place, but it just might be too much of a nightmare with your 3L setup. Get a piece of ally plate PC milled with what ever you would like on it "Matt Hat Performance" or somthang, tacked where the "Twin Turbo" usually is.

Fuel is just one factor though. Civic, Sydney, Melb's - I enjoy parking my cheap run about anywhere, and comming back anytime to pick it up. Tis not like that with the Skyline

Appreciate the comprehensive reply! Your right, many on your list are drivers cars that have come down in price. I think really though, I need something that does more then the main car; hence ute = practical, sub 2L FWD = fuel, R31 = cost. Hear'n what your saying bout Bemma's. Really, ppl I know with (newer though) them, spend very little in "failed parts" I have a mate who could assist there ne way. Maybe its just a perception thing. In the end, would love a track hardened MX5 and a built, rev'y RB20'd R32 in the garage, but in real land.. thats a way off With all of life's needs, I wouldn't be keen spending too many weekends under the run about, so reliability is a big factor. Hrrrm, maybe an auto Volvo wagon

More info/pics would be interesting! Though... just as the factory ECU's on R32's trigger a soft earth for the f.pump; lower flow at idle, the dual "trigger extra pump when needed" Iv seen before. Tru, full load and the pump (for what ever reason) doesnt kick in... boom (ok ok, a cheap closed loop fail safe could be made) The wider picture though, contains the fact that your using two fuel pumps to provide the vital injector head pressure. In reality if the second pump in a "both always on" situation EVER fails, you could lean out and det a motor, where a single pump should drop pressure more rappidly. Correct, there are many items in even a stock car, could fail could kill a motor, partially stuck injector, manufacturing dag falls off an oil filter and goes through motor etc etc, but it still plays on my mind. A single unit that does the job becomes tempting... Really, even if your pump does drop pressure past 14psi, your tuner could most likely, beef up the cells that are hit in those more loaded conditions. If you weren't aware that boost pressure effects fuel pressure, i would strongly recommend talking over with your tuner about pumps and what you know about Walbro's. My opinions only.

NP - Learnt to mind read in Nam

Yah, I'd just run no BOV for a temp fix.

Playing the bad man forum patron ... If I went to a bird watching forum, I would assume the question "best cheapest binoculars to start off with" or "best, cheapest paint roller that gives uber even coverage, for a newbie" on a niche interior painting forum, would have been asked before. Hitting that search button with a ruthless "enjoy sitting in wee drenched jeans" manic depressive anxt, will provide a wealth of experiences. If you springboard off other ppls experiences (Like Sambo33) plus have a little desire to tinker, you can SKIP technical, and fiscal issues others have had when modifying; hence the use of a forum. Don't get caught up using fish tank pumps for blow by excavation or Korean HID's when you coulda had those sway bar's or high flowed turbo. Don't mean to be condescending, im just an a55hole who trys to tell it how it is should be

Hey dood, long time no see/hear'oo! VU Taxi? Oh noooo 500 clicks would be nice, what size tank though? I know import owners use the "oh but you can drive a turbo car off boost, and its only 2.somthing capacity, much better then using 7L capacity all the time" In the real world though, most ppl have zhausted, BOV'n, boost increased 10.0 AFR nightmares... lucky to get 300km to a tank. So a ute eh, keeping in theme, ill assume you've taken up shooting road signs and trolling Mooseheads for Navy cadet skirt (pants)? hahaah jk. Veri-Sleep is going well, Macca's taken Sykes role now... still busts my azz bout full stops once per week CeJay - Yah, a R31 is rating very highly on my list. Hahahahah, Takumi tax, thats priceless!! Get your gran to pick up the parts. Best mate gets his GF to take his 13B bridgy turbo over to the checking station, late on a Friday afternoon... Ha.. never works though 3L is a bit more then 1.8L Corolla, but a factory car can run pretty rich. Maybe a bender or a ECU EPROM flash could lean out cruise / light load cells. If a 'rich in parts' car cant be found, Iv even considered an EFI motor into my KF Laser. I orig bought it in 2001 wanting to transplant a BP motor into. In reality a B6 turbo would be easier. Iv never been a fan of carbs in this day and age.. but even an old carby RWD TRX would be cool with a locker and some light susp work... hrrm. Drove a "Hi-Torque 2.6L Hilux" i think it was yesterday - haha. First corner in 2nd, it picked up the inside wheel and start spinning it, at like 3000rpm with a bees dick worth of throttle... such a strange sensation driving a non locker, non high strung import motor. But then I think about a well cared E30 BMW. EFI, RWD, well built, cheap, but maintenance $ could be an issue... *ponders* the thoughts continue... Thanks for your input!

Hehe, thought bout a sprinter.. but i see something like that, as the CBR500 or Kwaka road bike i want; it would push me to endanger myself. Know a guy with an AE86, but he reckons it'd be like "having tits for a day" You sit on a couch and and touch em all day. My daily needs to be something i wont be (too) temped to pour cash into (AR86 given its chassis... kissing a kerb would be all too likely) - strong will power wasn't pass down to me genetically KM's traveled in my Skyline isn't so much of a worry to me, as in reality, its only bearings, rings etc that wear. Its being able to park where ever you want, forget to lock up, windows down etc.. this in Canberra rem, i don't wanna have to be paranoid like mates that in Sydney EDIT: 30k??!!! Ouch... was it Cbr Km's though - mostly 80km/h straigh line stuff? Yah, a R31 would be cool. Another skyline in the garage, and RB30 are strong as nails. Mates been strapping his VL turbo for yeaaaaars on 91 octane, so a NA should run, till we can live on Mars.

Dont limit yourself to old ppl, they take up one on one Pilates these days, High School kids with laptops or grinning H block track wearing punters frm the TAB office are my pick Twin engine MG Group B Rally ftw! As a time waster, lets see who can guess the factor in Bens customers setup, which is proving to be so advantageous?? With such a smooth ramp, one wold think smaller turbos, given the good max power, one would think large inlet pressures too... *ponder* I vote stock cam'ed 2560's with 2bar and race fuel, or 260's dialed in low + head work and custom N1's... or N1 sized, water injection with agressive ingition advance. Wild guess, as im a single turbo RB26 guy.

Hey All, Undoubtedly fueled by Baconer's new Daily, I've been wondering; what are peoples every day car??? My BNR32 should be terrorizing the nations road users in under 2 months but will be off the road again for rebuild before end of year. I'm kick starting an abused KF Laser every day, but have been thinking of late if theres a better option in term of fun / style / running cost? In the future, a nice 2000+ model turbo diesel eruo box is the idea, but they're $15-25k, I'm thinking of something in the ~$6k market. Iv mates that'd scored 200fwkw CA18T Pulsars, 1st car 18" Simmons, bodykitted VL's, "pass me down" Festiva's and Specy V8 VX utes... and im still replacing rubber and oil in a B6-2E, 64 kW 1.6L Carb 16V SOHC Any suggestions would be appreciated. I'm 25, so older import insurance isn't an issue. I was thinking R31 Skyline, Ceffy, R32 GTST, EFI Hilux ute (RaceSnooze Styles) mid 90's EFI Corolla, RWD TRX etc... Posty bike?? Maintenance repairs / normal wear and tear isn't an issue as i do my own work, but core reliability is. Dailys are like house rent, get away with wot you can... bending costs slightly for performance / style could occur Any and all suggestions massively appreciated. Michael

I must say, i used to be a Celica fiend in high school, though not the mustang shape! :0 RA22 gave me chills in Yr10. Nice run about dood!! Ppl used to put the 2L Toyato 6's them. Magin Rb20 screem, Toyota style??!! Skin prickling Jelous!!!!! PS: I see more and more NSW'ers in the ACT section... *ponders*

If your still in need, Iv a BNR32 cat?

Mother of Jesus, thats not correct, surely! If you werent Ben of racepace, id get banned abusing you! More info on low mount spec's!!!!

Tis cool, as long as your sure to mention its something "you heard from a mechanic"... I tend to ignore anything a normal, non-performance mech says (no offence mech's: 3 mates a mechanics) Correct, ceramic cats are more sensitive to heat, so if your cats running in a hot environment (miss tuned piston or normal rota) iv found you need to grab a better quality one (unfortunately most ppls look at max CFM only) All i can recommend in these high temp applications is SMB. Many of the Rotary crew use em cus they are a lot more resilient to heat. Purely as a "I know a guy..." story, a mates, mate fitted a SMB 4" to a 13B, GT3540 running 10.3 AFR's ALL THE TIME, not just on boost. Within months the cat ended up in his rear muffler. He's purchasing another in a week or two. SMB has proven itself in my eyes, in very hot environments; if many other decently tuned rota's (10-11 AFR on boost) have surviving SMB cats... then its good enough for my properly tuned piston car I figure. EDIT: My post is meaningless of course to those looking to grab the most cost effective solutoin for thier setup. BOS import cats seem to last well anough on properally tuned cars. Check the for sale section. My fist full of cents...

Can i assume Paul the GTST's plug out, is the same as on the BNR32?? Thanks in advance

Interesting, id like to hear more on this theory

Boost tap? Do you mean a bleeder? Take from turbo outlet, or piping. Do no connect to the plenum.

lol You mean, "compression test results" I think its 5% tolerable difference, max results vary. Your numbers are pretty much it though.

Crimping the spade terminal a lil should grip the pins ok, then maybe large size heat shrink over the whole lot, zip tie? or afore mentioned rubber tubing?... maybe it is a too ghetto There would have to be a more elegant solution, giving some time thinking.

Keith, I can lend you an indicator if you still need it

Droooool

Thats right, your engineering logic has no place here. This is import tuning, you fit wot has the biggest following and the most google hits But how likely are you to find a setup that is smaller and higher flowing? I'm imagining the windings of a 1000hp Paxton and it looks comparatively 45% larger for its higher flow (044 being 550-600hp'ish)