GeeTR

450hp (I assume at engine) You want 350rwkw which is 470rwhp, so you were correct about wanting to use a ext gate to do the metering. In the end, looks like you'll be making some cash out of this

This assumes his ECU runs the injectors sequentially up till readline. I thought most of them go batch fire above 4000rpm, meaning of course fuel is being squirted at the back of closed inlet valves in portions of the total millisec requirement. Half or 3/4 strength charge can indeed be ingested into the cylinder. I could be wrong, maybe the R32 ECU is seq the entire rev range...

Download the manual, then search SAU for what duty and gain settings others are using for a good start.

I just measured 8.17mm OD of the stock steel fuel line. ~1mm wall thickness, the ID would be around 6'ish i would think. The stock FPR prolly "would" functionally work fine, but once you've moded the rail, and bolted a hose tail to the reg, ppl are suggesting you might as well buy aftermarket items. Considering in other of your threads, ppl mentioned that the stock lines would support 600rwhp, -8 return would be fine. In the total cost of things, playing around with returns is fairly trivial, and can modified later on, if proven to be insufficient. Swot i would do. It will be a true win for social networking forums when this car is running, and youtube is full of videos of it

HKS recalled their soft c.gears yeeears ago. (5+) The outer gear ring is made from Duralium now. Besides their gaudy too ne- way The OS G gears were cheap, but with the dollar, all the Trust / Tomie ones, seem to be around the same'ish price now. I would think c.gear choice is fairly a muchness. How many Km's has it done? Before boosting, pulling fuel out, and ignition in, you should preform basic maintenance as above. ... and i wouldn't do shite, till you confirm you have steel wheels.

3L - ahh cool. Theres only one way to find out Call a Garret pusher, or GCG or somone that would know. I cant imagine an Australian car using something too special derived that far from a OEM off the shelf product.

Purchase a WG'less rear turbine housing... something smaller while your at it, so it spools Most other things i can think of, that would actually seal... would be pretty gheto.

8mm ID comes to mind? Ill try and check this morning, and update this post.

Pull the thermostat out and test it on the stove. Yah, some gunk from the old rad could have clogged it.

Seeing the inside collector of Kyle's manifolds allllways brings a silly smile to my face.

I wouldn't think a tonal resonance from having the window down, is going to make your wheel create a noise A few different trim panels terminate and fasten near the rear wheel arch and C pillar. Its most likely one of thems. As Insomniac said, get someone to press panels with the sun roof down, locate then fasten.

Hell ya, in reality, the world wont come to an end if it pops off while driving.

Thats a secksi piece of billet ally

One could theorize that the air "slug" has been split in half, and is now a little more turbulent from the 900 turn. This aids in more even distribution. All guess work of course, until someone CAD's it up, and runs it through a FEA. You don't necessarily need an aftermarket ECU, its like umm, like a pack of snow dogs, the team as an entity, will only be as fast as the slowest dog; that is, your tuner will stop winding boost and ignition into the motor when those more sensitive cylinders start complaining, loosing you maybe 20kw that you would have got if you could tune to the max of the less sensitive ones. As long as a decent safety margin is kept, you should really be no worse off. You need some responses from people who have actually tuned an RB with the mod done i think.

How embarrassing!!! look what i FOUND Haha, somethings never change. GTST had a thang for bov's back then as well lol jk man.

There are links SAU somewhere for the files. I did a 20s search a few weeks ago and came across many torrent links.

You could... - Plastic weld a lip back on - Just use two quality hose clamps and leave it. - $280 for one of Fatz 50mm ally radiators - Pay a few more 100 for a Koya etc. - Pay a few more 100 again for a quality PWR.

Oww "professionally mounted" Interestingly, are you aware how they went about it?

Mines been off the road for 2 years and 6 days... and counting I took up heavy binge drinking, dropped the GF and started clubbing again to pass the time... lol. Should actually be back in the road in *coughs* a month or two... serious...

I believed you could slot the holes on the std ones to fit? Rough idea...

I vote Hell yes!

Unfortunately incorrect in relation to a forward facing plenum, including RB26's. As Rob says, air has inertia. Its why most people fit their highest flowing injectors in the last two cylinders. Its why most ppl det the last two cylinders (well, and less head coolant circulation back there) People use the Greddy jobby for trying to equalize flow. Mines R34 uses the Nismo one, which if you look at its overall size, isn't used because of its outright flow. Mort, as you might have read, many people have measured big flow differences over a myriad of pressures with a mod'd 25 plenum. I think URAS has actual flow numbers. Its not "too" much of an issue as long as you take measures to trim AFR's across the cylinders... this isn't a complete solution though, as the flow differences between runners, change with flow rate, ie - RPM. They're just the issues with long plenum's, the issue is made even worse by mod'd the 25 unit (i read) having distribution fins or ribs inside it, that assist the function when the TB is mounted factory midway. Iv never done the mod, nor seen the results with my own eyes, though would figure as long as you don't lean on the motor too hard, you should be fine.

Straaange. The ECU could have been damaged, I would have thought pretty unlikely though. Have you checked the ECU for error codes? Note sure about a S15 ECU, but a Skyline one doesn't shut the car off when you DC the AFM; it goes into limp mode. Did the car act like this when the O2 sensor was DC?

Dunno bout GTST's, but my BNR32 and many others reaches up to 1100c with some spirited street driving. With a cooler it takes some serious hot day'ed track / street work to hit 100. I use a Earls, cut from billet block adapter and oil filter mount. I use a Earls billet oilstat with -10 race fittings through out. Less then 1/2 cost compared to Jap kits, and you can choose the best core that fits your setup. I have been trying to fit a Trust core into the drivers brake duct, though will have to sell it, and grab a Sereck, as even moving the stock BOV's doesn't give enough room. F_uck brand name, your looking for an effect. If you can hook up the trans cooler you have now easily, and it works? then use it. If not, change it Like ppl have mentioned, it'l get hot if you run it hard, if you track your car, or use a lot of WOT on the street; then you'll need one.

Pestario (1997 "The Pest")