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So mysterious; thread with a missing #1 post!! Maybe there are clues to follow... maybe they're on the declaration of independence

I wanted a bov venting out the bonnet when i was 14 ... that is all

I certainally hope they dont explode ! Many mount in the tank, but with a R33 GTST, its mounts like a Silvia, with the pump on the drop down cradle. Maybe check how the NS.com guys do it. Watching a mate try and complete it, its not easy. After months, hes just got a Nismo drop in.

Item: Motorola V3xx Age: 48 hours Condition: New, sealed in box Price: $250 Location: Canberra Contact: Michael - 0438-644-789 Comments: The cheapest I could find these on ebay, is for $280. They RRP for ~$430 Good simple second phone, or good for corporate use. Gift for the younger sibling?

Sweet, you found a way round the issue! That push on turbo coolant hose gets a little hot though doesn't it. That car would be a hoot to drive :0 EDIT: is that the stock charcoal cannister?

If you would like your gauge to show vacuum as well as boost, then yes; it needs to be taken from between throttle body and the motor.

I had my issue from the day it left the boat in QLD. Yup, all and any. Spray everything, I used a whole can around my engine. My issue (car not mental) was compounded by a leak in the throttle body <-> plenum fit, as well as where the throttle plate spindle protrudes from throttle body (RB26) Good luck

Was going to see if Saliya wanted to add this info to his thread, but hes been absent from SAU for a while now. Thought I will make my own. I figure when your in dire need for a DIY, you cant have too many Ill assume you know how to do all the basic removal stuff from Saliya's thread. Im concentrating here on the points that took me most of the time and thought with installing the 044 in the stock position. Below is 12mm metric fitting. I forget what the other end is, doesnt really matter as you'll be machining it off. Details of pick up fitting I used... End that screws into pump - 18mm wide, 13mm length from centre with a 11.1mm ID End that attaches to strainer - 12.95mm wide with a 8mm ID. In a lath, working on the smaller strainer end, I removed ~2.5mm of material, giving a OD of 10.5mm. This gives a wall thickness of around ~1.8mm. The ID of the strainer is 9.5mm. I then gave the the last half of the fitting a taper down to 9.8mm. I half sanded down the cutting marks, leaving some roughness for the strainer to grip to. Below is the strainer after i removed about 25mm of length. I used a hot knife attachment in a gas butane torch to prevent plastic swarf from getting inside the strainer. I used the below check valve (one way valve) with 5/16 hose ends, so i could mount outside the tank if need be (I didn't have to) This also cuts down on the total length of all the fittings on top of the pump. As Saliya mentions, its pretty close to the side of the tank. Below is the pump cradle trimmed to fit the 044. Comparing this picture to the real thing should make it pretty obvious what needs removing. Below is the completed setup (bar the one way stuck in the return Instead of using banjo's, nipples and right angle fittings, I wanted to reduce unnecessary restriction, cost and packaging. I found the easiest way to simply use a 1/4 BSP -> -6 race fitting, then a -6 900 bend, then 8mm hose end. Most Speedflow, Earls, AeroQuip are all interchangeable I believe. Thoughts: - I wont be able to pressurize the setup for a month or so due to other restraints. - I intend to be running this pump outa flow in the next 12 months, and install a much smaller Bosch to feed a surge tank; this is why i tried not to damage / modify the cradle in a way so that I couldnt use it like the factory did. I will be sure to update this thread with the 044 @ 13.8v @ XYZBar flow capacity. - The one way valve looks to have a fairly small ID, so that could be a restriction in the future - we'll find out. - The strainer does sit a little high (~5mm) but shouldn't make a difference. I could have used some rubber to chuck the pump up a little, as well as reduce noise (Nismo bolt-in user's with their "$420 buys you 20min bolt in, and its soo quiet" made me see if i could mount an 044 just as quietly) but, I couldn't find anything that was GUARANTEED not to break down in ULP. When i do find something (maybe even some excess fuel line, ill mod this post. - As Saliya's thread mentioned, finding fuel hose thats both buytl inner and outer is 100% required. Iv seen / heard of too many story's of degraded line. I didn't need any extra line here; If i did, i was going to use sections of hard line to extend it. - Hope this helps!!!

Check with a structural engineer, to see how much of the front radiator support you can cut out; would allow you much more flexibility.

Spray brake cleaner at the injectors and watch if the revs pick up. Maybe injector seals? I had a similar issue.

Ur a regular Martha Stewart lol. Yah, I think ill just leave the thinking there. Slots are for a more finite over pressure (wheel mismatch) Cheers

Yup, I understand the premise of having a comp / turbine wheel mismatch; benefits of surge slots and could imagine the bov works dramatically better. It just.... dunno. Haha, maybe I'm asking a Q for which i wont accept an answer for lol.

Theres a person or two on SAU who's used a Jaycar kit off the AFM signal in his GTST. He's set up the unit to switch the larger pumps earth, through a resister when at low AFM signal output. I think he said it had strong effects on the fuel temperature. Something like this i would assume, Jaycar kit KC5377

Hey Disco, Cheers for the reply. Im well versed though, on how basic engine physics. It just seems that... Is functional similar if not the same as... I was thinking maybe the surge slots/holes being positioned right at the comp wheels tips, which allow some leeway with surge, could assist with reversion when the throttle blade closes? Kinda seems like the same effect to me. I dont intend to change ne thing, nor do I posses a divergent turbo, I'm just interested in the theory. I don't intend to sell my stock bov's ne time soon Edit: My understanding was reversion is exactly that, air thats coming back out the comp wheel blades... hence why surge slots/holes might render a bov unnecessary? you dont think?

100% I've personally only realised more recently, the insane levels of expense required by shops (So, not just experimenting on various customers "no budget" project car) The cash equates into nothing more then knowledge to put into another customers car. People often whinge when shops lock ECU's or don't divulge certain details of setup. "Its my car dammit" they say. Often certain tricks can make or break a setup; differentiate it from the pack. Big shops aren't around to fluff you, they run a business. What ever they are doing, should be kept tight to their chest. Respect

Hahaha - quick! get her to handstand and count to one thousand!!!

Hey All, Have been wondering for a while now; Quiet possibly the whole world knows this, and i missed the memo buuut... Do the comp cover slots / holes in certain manufactures products negate the need for BOV's? I believe they are implemented to help alleviate surge / over pressure, the motor cant ingest. Would this design feature, allow sufficient air to escape through said slot / hole when a BOV would usually operate? This thought hasn't been born from need for the function, nor am i looking at any divergent setups, im just interested is the physics of it. Surely if it did negate it, OEM's would try it. Idea's, theory's, suggestions, 2cents appreciated frm anyone Please no, Uleh omg dose, stock is fine, Goose sex is gr8 responses