GeeTR

The Bosch does indeed, but the Walbro's issue is suppling flow at high pressures, which isn't occurring here as its not pushing onto a FPR and making 60psi, its pushing into the back of the intake of another pump; Its pushing into negative pressure area. hence Id think It'd be fine. Don't get me wrong, im not a fan of the setup either, but I know ppl that do run it like that, and its fine. The things you can get away with are amazing. Dave, were the two pumps close to together? PS: Nice sounding setup Cory, but wtf's a Chucki?

Interesting issue. You say you can feel gases escaping at idle; what if you tug on the actuator arm closed at the same time? If it was a used turbo, id suggest it could be leaking where the flap axle (spindle?) goes through the housing, if that makes sense.

Jeebuz, thats some serious angle. Id be cautious about even leaving it like it is in the photo over night, due to straining the diaphragm. Its got such a vital role in boost control i would be ultra careful. Personally, if your that time short, I'd see if Slyda can get you some better photos, and make the bracket yourself with some sheet steel... that or make a new rod end, that will fit onto the threaded end.

Shame more ppl haven't coughed up any good info, as I've often wondered this. Hell, im not even sure how one would increase the cranks counter weight to accommodate the heavier rods (all things being equal) All I can think of, is threading the holes that are drilled into the counters (to adjust weight) and screwing in some mass, steel, depleted uranium etc

S13 chassis - nice, I almost bought a 180 with a RB20 in it 3y ago. No sorry - I was just rambling off the output, as you hadn't mentioned a turbo, or power goal Correct, having the ass of the 044 fed a positive pressure will undoubtedly help it reach its "on paper" spec. 180 or Silvia? As if 180, the boot isn't sealed from the cabin, so you cant legally fit a s.tank setup in there ne way. you'd have to enclose all the gear in a box, or just stick it under the car. My vote is for a carefully designed under floor setup. It means you can use ordinary EFI hose with worm clamps, and don't need to be fussed with fancy stuff to prevent smell.

lol, iv heard! I would literally start with HKS. Find out from their site (use the translate tool) or from USA distributor of HKS gear, the rings that comes with pistons. The manufacture or reseller should be able to tell you. I say this, a ring land is a hectic environment, with the manufacture accounting for a specific material, design etc. People do use random 3rd party rings, but often have mixed results. Good luck dood

Are you selling dash vents?

Gday Gday

That setup should be fine. You haven't mentioned what fuel tank your putting it in. Most Skylines seem to get away without a surge tank, if they're 1/3 full. 044 is rated at 600hp, which is about 350rwkw. In reality, a tank and some line wont cost that much extra if you fit it under the car. Once you go in the boot, you'll have to use hardline or teflon braid to limit fuel weepage and cabin smell.

Try and locate the rings that HKS recommends with that piston set. Contact them, i would

Top hose sends post engine, hot water to the rad, so yah, its normal. I would think the controller is running the fans too often, or before the motor's reached its normal op temp. Had a quick look at these Revotec setups, look pretty impressive! Can you tweak the fan activating temperature? EDIT: Keep in mind the cluster gauge is a three step unit. It wont show finite variants; used to stop your average commuter from freaking out cus the needle is always moving. Your after market ECU will have a decent water temp reading fed to it from the 2 wire sender. PFC, Autronic (assuming your from the US - AEM? will have the output there somewhere. Find a known accurate temp reading, if your indeed too cold (u mention uv replaced the thermostat) then one would think your lecky fan setup is cooling it down too much, how ever strange it sounds. Interesting, let us know how you go!

^^ thats gorgeous

Taken from http://minhaselecao.blogspot.com/2008/02/i...-54-photos.html These completely blew me away, stared at them for 20mins, check the link for more of them

lol, sometimes just talking aloud, hearing yourself speak (type?) can make things seem so much clearer hahaha. Good to see your back up and running smooth again

^^ RB30_POWER, they're some fantastically well written posts!!!

Hey Bernie, interesting idea. Was the second pump strapped on top of the OEM one, that sits in the cradle? How did you manage to get the pick up as low as the stocky? Cheers!

You wouldn't get a Int WG from a supplier if you wanted a Ext WG. It most likely came from somewhere at a v.good price.

"Heat shield and exhaust rattle caused by opened window?" Iv missed the correlation; no way, can i imagine that occurring. I still think it can only be pressure, or pressure oscillations (resonance) doing it. Many cars have vents from the boot space to behind the rear bar (right behind the rear wheel) If pressure is trying to equalize in that area, maybe there’s a panel, or rear bar movement. I'm massively interested now to find out what this noise is! Keep persisting!

If the reading you get on the high RPM overrun (when engine braking) was the same as idle.. you'd be in a world of worries Its very unlikely, your readings are correct. Borrow a mates vacuum gauge, as the stocker isn't really that good diagnoses tool. If you like to tinker, you could make your own vacuum gauge. See AutoSpeeds website for the article.

Nick, you don't mention it cranks slowly, just that "its slow to catch" Nissan imports in general i find take a while to catch, PFC carrying ones, even slower. 2 seconds is prolly normal, 4 isn't.

This isn't real - Surely! Someone has made a bogus account, and is playing games...

JJR should replace it, if its clearly a manufacturing fault. If not, any decent alloy shop, should be able to weld it up for you. You could save some time, and pressure test it in a bath, looking for bubbles.

Nismo bolt ins, are for gurls lol For the cost of em, you'd want them to be quiet (undoubtedly they use a fuel resistant insulation, like factory)

Its often a good idea to replace all the studs when taking the manifold off. Going by all the threads regarding broken studs stuck in the head, i reckon its warranted.