Bazelinez

group buy on R32 windows?? Seriously though, is Nissan the only source of these windows? I would have thought maybe Pilkingtons may have them given the R32 was Oz delivered...?

nah mine did not come out with just degreaser or anything. Its easier with a high speed buffer anyway Mine were well and truly stuffed...

That's a tough call mate, the IJZ it widely considered to be one of the best inline 6 cylinder engines in the world... I wouldn't consider any of the Soarers to be "above" another, all are similarly priced and I see just as many V8s as 6s. After having the 1jz in the Mark2 I can highly recommend it. It would hand the V8 its arse in a race no problem. However they do not come with the leather, no. I would fore-go this luxury to be able to move around faster then an v6 commodore....

Josh, I got the springs from a place called L & T Venebles. Its a contruction or something supply shop. There's one in Wangara. Just go in there and have a look. They have all sorts of little things like hard to find nuts and bolts. Don't bother asking the tossers behind the counter for any help though, they're the rudest bunch of pricks out there. The factory spring is reversed. If you pull it out it will retract whereas the spring I got was a regular one I stretched to make the distance. Just get one that's similar. In hindsight, the one I chose was a bit too heavy as the idle up doesn't last long enough but the car still runs perfectly and starts just as easily as before. Just make sure you bend the spring over the mounts at each end. The last thing you want is the bastard coming off while you're driving. As for the hose, most hoses I've used are just heater hoses from super cheap. you can bend the straight hose a fair bit before it kinks or you can try and match a pre made bend to suit yours. Need any help with it at all, ask away.

Took my coils put today and 3 were split on the greay part surrounding the metal thing. Very technical eh? Taped them up but in thr process I noticed a shitload of green calcium build up and general crud up inside. I took a Dremel (small high speed drill thingy) and lightly ground the inside of each coil pack until it was shiny again. I already had new springs inside and I screwed a tiny allen bolt up the guts of each spring to replicate the factory set up. In all I had about 3 teaspoons of carbon/calcium/crud I removed from all the coilpacks. Result is fixed mis firing, stronger performance, better idle. Worth the effort if you have the tools.

Took my coils put today and 3 were split on the greay part surrounding the metal thing. Very technical eh? Taped them up but in thr process I noticed a shitload of green calcium build up and general crud up inside. I took a Dremel (small high speed drill thingy) and lightly ground the inside of each coil pack until it was shiny again. I already had new springs inside and I screwed a tiny allen bolt up the guts of each spring to replicate the factory set up. In all I had about 3 teaspoons of carbon/calcium/crud I removed from all the coilpacks. Result is fixed mis firing, stronger performance, better idle. Worth the effort if you have the tools.

yeah definately sounds like a leech in the system. could be coming from anywhere. Make sure the boot light is turning off. If its not that, it might be wise to take it somewhere as they can measure the falling current and guage what it could be draining the power.

To be honest I haven't. Only cause i'd like to get opinions from other people. Partucularly as most people have experienced the more common problems once or twice.

Have you thought about a Mark2/Chaser Slik? I used to have one. awesome cars, still pretty exclusive and basically a Soarer/Supra underneath.

Your tyres must be shit, mines manual and doesn't spin in any gear

Righto, just seen the sticky at the top. I'll try and wrap them tomorrow still don't have any idea what the chime is though?! What's a set of Splitfire coil packs worth these days? Anyone got a second hand set around?

hey guys, my car has been going bonkers today. When I rev it around 4K at WOT on 12PSI its spluttering and backfiring and there seems to a chime coming from under the dash?! Like a door open chime? Its bizarre. It comes and goes. One minute its clean and the next its dying....It won't accellerate at all. It feels like a cut almost but the boost isn't high enough... Anyone got any ideas?

Agreed, this is the worst thing I've had to do to my car so far!!!!

Yeah I fixed the problem, I put in a stronger spring then factory. It idles up fine but now when warm it drops straight down no messing about. It still hasn't fixed my start up issue though. When I start the car in the morning I have to give it some throttle or it sits around 200RPM and coughs and dies. The guide is good but the pics don't works anymore.!

Okay I fixed it. I ditched the factory spring cause it was stuffed and replaced it with another thicker spring that holds more tension. The result it it idles up fine but once warm drops straight down to its normal idle, no wandering or anything. Worth the skinned knuckles and abuse. In the process though I managed to lose both screws that hold the regulator to the manifold. Such a prick to get in cause it can't be reached. Have to remedy this as only one bolt is holding it in.... happy camper!

Just took my air regulator apart and the spring was loose. Cleaned it all up and put it back together, now its idling very high, like 2000rpm. Is the regulator supposed to be open or closed once the engines warm? The spring looks like its supposed to be holding it closed but it was half open on mine. Has the spring had it. Anyone know how much a new AR from Nissan is? Is it the same as the Rb30 etc? Need help urgently. chees!

I did this today and I've stuffed something since the idle is now high, around 1500rpm. I was just trying to fix a dodgy idle on start up wish I'd left it. Can someone get pics of what the regulator is suppoed so look like?

Hey guys, Took my regulator apart today. Is the spring supposed to hold the rotating thing shut entirely? Mine is half open? It wasn't dirty at all either so maybe its the AAC instead.... I put it all back together and now the idle is high its idling at around 1500. Before it was fine, I don't think i've changed anything. Its shit! Anyone got any ideas?

I Had a version 4. not real happy with it.... Numerous little issues, think I'd rather chip the stock ecu. cold starts SUCKED. Get the latest version it has stepper motor control..

Mine reads zero most of the time sometimes 4. I've driven it for 6 months like this. Its fine. If it wasn't my RB would be a smoking hunk of metal. I reckon that oil is too thin though... I got Helix 5w-40 and I even might go thicker.

Dude, its basically the only problem the RBs have and its just due to age. Yes with my car the problem came and went until it stayed stuffed for good. Do the test and it will prove if its them or not. You can't blame a slipping clutch on the motor type Its just one of those things. Stick with it, the RB shits on the SR. One dud coil is the only problem i've had on mine in 6 months since I imported it. Fix it and you'll be fine! Keep us posted!

I got $50 on a dud coil pack. Its an Rb thing

Took mine out tonight, went fine, no surging or anything? Weird.... I thought this sorta problem was normally fuel pump related particularly in an 89 model.... Is it worth getting a new pump for piece of mind.? I'd hate to skimp on this and then having to rebuild the motor due to it leaning out......

How do these compare to the 040s? My stocker still works although its giving me worries

nah its the exhaust that will make it go up, air filter shouldn't do anything. Mine was running 9psi with a 3 inch turbo back exhaust. Now 12PSI thanks to a boost controller.