MoMnDadGTR

I was curious to see what the inside of the old ets control unit looked like after seeing the outside(seeing if I could fix while my new used ets unit showed up). I cleaned everything the best I could I’m surprised this was my issue because everything looked quite clean and the connector pins had zero corrosion. The unit is still dead when I plug in. I wanted to challenge myself and fix it but I think it’s hooped . I took a few pics for who ever cares to see what the inside looks like and maybe you can spot something I didn’t. Cheers thanks again for help.

My misunderstanding, anyways problem fixed thanks again.

Ended up being an easy fix. Borrowed my friends Ecu against his will as he didn’t want to remove the Ecu as his car is in storage for winter and clips can break easy where we are from very cold. Removed the 4wd Ecu and it has a bunch of rust ontop does not look pretty. Looks like my rear whiper hose was leaking on it at some point and has caused water damage. Swapped ets Ecu 4wd back tourque gauge working fine. Thanks again cheers.

I have the manual ive studied front to back, was simply making my problem clear in case someone had a quick "this happened to me try this" I didn't know there was a certain time to post on here sorry mate. and no im from Canada. ill sort the issue myself and post it when I figure it out. I don't need the extra comments calling me a waldo and telling me I need to know what I bought. keep it to yourself. thanks for the help joshuaho96 definitely my next step. again ill post the fix when I have it beat.

hear me out on this one boys, because the nitrogen canister may be pooched, could this cause the pump to stay in an open state trying to reach target pressure but it cant without the added helo of nitrogen cannister, so throws the code 24 for continuously being on? could also be the reason when I hear my pump trying to run I still have no pressure out bleed nipples.

literally ready to wire someone 100 bucks if they can pin point issue on this im loosing sleep mates big time haha. ive tried 3 new batteries. I need to figure out the wiring and maybe ad some grounds in the correct areas. the 4wd and abs light pop up right away. has any one else ever had 4wd code 24?

ok right on glad to have your help on this one. any trouble shooting I should do before I buy another 4wd ecu(is so where can I pick one up or just try to find a used one on ebay?). maybe I can probe some pins and measure voltage to try and narrow it down. is there a way I can supply a constant power voltage to my pump to even see if I can get it to prime? in the morning I can here it just pumping like crazy in the back for about 8 seconds but still only get drip drip out the bleed neeples when there wide open. no pressure ever. I guess another wuestion is has anyone ever thrown a code from a empty accumulator. I know this code says ground and power related tho. im just very green to fixing internal 4wd issues and don't want to rule anything out completey. I know there is 2 ecus in the trunk the one has the blinking red light code is my 4wd ecu correct? I just maybe want to know what the other silver box is beside the factory amp stereo just for piece of mine. I know once I see pressure come out the bleed nipples either when car is in bleed mode or simply running that this issue will probably be solved.

I currently just popped a code 24 on my atessa Ecu. My Abs light and 4wd light on. No 4wd forsure I have it on stands and front tourque gauge won’t move. Wheels do spin but it’s just a little bit. I’m thinking nitrogen accumulator. Need help tho been a 6 day battle lol. I had a code 13 weeks ago fixed it with du lock g sensor v2.

that being said I have no problem buying what needs to be bought to keep the car proper. if my aussie friends think its a canister id more than likely like to rebuild the entire atessa pump assembly ontop of diff or buy a complete new one if it was available. you guys know a lot more about part sourcing and what not for this type of stuff I just got helped by a nice fellow on sourcing out a front diff, any info will help to keep the old girl kickin.

ok completely stumped for the abs and 4wd light back. I have atessa code 24 (ets control unit, ground circuit). searching for 6 days now before reaching out for help. I fixed a code 13 with a new g sensor about 2 weeks ago all was well. I have cleaned abs sensors even tho that's not the code. I have the car on jack stands right now with wheels off, if I put in first gear the front wheels will spin but not powered like back ones and tourque gauge will not move. I have checked all the wiring. relay clicks like crazy in the boot when first go to click ignition on to work on car in morning. I have both bleed nipples completely opened wide open and can never get a stream of fluid to come out at any time only drip drip. I know all about white clip bleed mode ive bled the car many times and have seen in the past quite a bit of fluid come out of nipple(remember it shooting on my face.) im leaning toward empty nitrogen canister but don't have enough knowledge to know if the car will throw a code because of a faulty nitrogen accumulator. the atessa ecu will only read the code if the car is running. the car is very stock suited with a set of 2860s. tuned with a haltec, but I am running stock injectors so I threw my old ecu in to see if make a difference but no cigar. sorry for the length of this, I know someone is gunna be mad at me as this is probably an easy fix but im over 50 k into this car because of just throwing money at it to fix issues and think I need to go about it different. mentally beat lol 6 days straight trying to get my 4wd back.

lots of good info there, I know on my old dodge cummins 12 valves we plumb in egt probes into the exhaust manifold for an accurate reading. I already have a haltec on the car with just a basemap for the twins(2860's). haven't been able to tune it yet its cold as hell out just tried it a couple times when I replaced the g sensor. ill post what I end up running but I think im just gunna bite the bullet and get some race fuel. cheers mate.

I just did some reading on that, which Is why I think im gunna rock my stock one till she acts up. I own a tree company in Canada and work on heavy equipment everyday, I have not replaced a gtr rear diff specifically but the shimming process is no different in my eyes from a large piece of equipment to a small car. its really just a fun thing for me to work on from time to time so if it takes me a year to replace the rear diff so be it haha. I like to learn and would love to tackle the job. I haven't run into anything yet that this site hasn't solved for me as well. guys like yourself have been a big help in going through the gtr journey again.

ya we see eye to eye bro 500 more than enough for street especially with the heavy foot which is fine but yes mate watch the police f88k they can wreck a day. you know what your doing I don't think you need much help. I just say take your time because that's where I have gone wrong in past. once its done right and car feels reliable the feeling will awesome. ill stay in touch be well bro.

preparing the car to get this front diff in next week. I was wondering if I should just bite the bullet and swap a different diff in the rear as well. cars got 120,000 on the rear diff maybe time for upgrade or save my cash and go till she explodes if it ever will. let me know bro I got 3 weeks before I have to go back to work full time and I wont be able to do much on car till next year. thanks buddy.

the supra guys down here just fill up at the airport, I have no idea what fuel our west jets are pushing these days haha.

well after all the chit chat, im gunna go down to the local Kawasaki shop and order a barrel of vp race fuel. its expensive but super high octane good for lots of boost. we have a descent 94 octane sold at husky/mohawk I can get here in Canada for daily driving. im gunna go vp race fuel for my second map, cheers thanks for help.

and don't worry about cosmetics bro you seem like a driver, get the car running mint and keep enjoying it. paint her up when car is mechanically ready to hammer down. car looks good the way it is its a warrior.

cars got some attitude looking good m8, do the rods too for what its worth. im assuming your going to rehone and go a bit bigger with new rings to make up tolerances again. Rods might have seen some serious stress when contacting valves even if it seems straight could be a problem down the line. I had an old cummins that did the same thing and I reused the rods. was a mistake as it ended up through the block 2500km later on a hard pull. Keep taking your time do it right. when they hone the block, have the head machined as well as make sure machine shop checks the trueness off the exhaust ports as they can become untrue over time(by this I mean if you run a flat edge across all the ports they can become untrue to each other creating stress on manifold which is why you see a lot of expensive manifolds still crack because this step is skipped on machining often. pick the right head gasket, tune er up away ya go. good luck m8 hope this was a help.

I hope so, I've got that du lock sensor dialed in real nice sure a big difference from a stock g sensor set up was worth every penny, the new quaife will be the icing on the cake. I would love to find a stock r33 gtr so I could go big power build for track/strip on the old 32. anyways thanks for the help throughout m8 will stay in touch. drive safe enjoy your gtr's

lots of places in Canada have a good 94 octane fuel, and yes the gtr runs happy on 91 octane as well. until the boost is too high. I guess I could order and store e85 and have a separate tune for it. seems like no one running meth these days so ill just bite the bullet and figure it out. we have a strip five minutes from my house so id like to have a bit more power for those weekends.

we got shit fuel in Canada here, all I can get is 91, if anyone has any imput I would like to just run meth as I can get it easy, and I heard it keeps your valves and what not clean. my friend has to much money and has his own dyno so I can tune as I go. I'm not the best but getting the hang of it. I see everyone runs e85 but that's tough for me to get and I feel I can get 500whp with meth just fine. I have all supporting mods in box for it just need to figure out my fuel issue.

thanks mate, ill update everything now and then when I have time. I tend to work on the car everyday after work, its pretty cold here about -25c outside, but I got a wood stove in my garage so I'm able to take my time and work on it slow. and your right I get alot enjoyment working on the car feels good to be back after 10 years of not smelling like an rb every day haha. im currently waiting for a wack load of weather stripping(dry as a nuns mid section) to show up and am gunna do a glass out paint job on it. that's next just gotta save a bit of coin for the painter and away we go.

glad you made this point I was under impression it is ok to use limited slip oils in non limited slip just not the other way around. I went with a quaife. I will use normal 140w then thanks.

right on id say you did good at 40k assuming that motor is built. what program did you tune with? nice clean bay I really like this car.

Thanks feel blessed m8. shes not perfect by any means but definitely brings the family a good release at the end the day! something I can enjoy with my son, little wrencher.