MoMnDadGTR

yeah it is...the third largest connector is the one your looking at, remove it and measure for continuity between terminals 13,14,15,16,17,18,19,20 between .8 and 2.2, the terminals you are focusing on are in pattern. remember you are measuring the harness side not the atessa control unit side. if you have continuity between the connector terminals you need a new control unit. if you don't have continuity you need to measure resistance at terminals 1 2 3 and 4. this will narrow it down for you without doing any wrenching at all.

Could save you from wasting time cleaning your sensors like I did. And if your cleaning one do all 4 don’t cut corners

I highly suggest trouble shooting it with the link I sent you. (It’s straight from r32 gtr manual brotha) This will rule out things quick if you know how to use a multi meter. Way better than guessing but hope it works out.....all you have to do is pull the plugs from the atessa control unit and get to work.

try your mates attessa computer as well see if it solves the issue. I have 3 spares I can sell you one if need be.

https://www.gtrusablog.com/2017/05/r32-nissan-skyline-gt-r-attesa-code-1.html this is a link for trouble shooting your error code, im 99 percent sure this will lead you to your issue...the manual has worked every time for me in solving these attesa codes. I would print it off(about 800 pages so use your works printer full r32 gtr manual) if I was you is a gtr bible!

sorry never seen that post....clean and get back to me

if it was working before I wouldn't think move the ground. be patient. my car is setup very simple(no battery relocation or anything) so it was very easy to diagnose and fix. there are some super rebutable guys on here im sure they will step in if cleaning it doesn't work. just a question what ecu are you running? ive heard and seen guys having awd problems with apexi jetro systems...if you still have a stock ecu try a different one if you can get your hands on one

I also chased wires like you until I replaced my atessa computer in the trunk of car(atessa control unit). mine had water damage from my rear windshield sprayer leaking and was telling me codes that weren't real. check for power and continuity at that clip as well that I just posted if all else fails. hoping that connector is loose as your issue.

No I’m pretty old school mate no Facebook, could be a good thread for others if we fix it as well. I know when I was fixing my error codes I found lots of threads with unsolved mystery ha. Here’s a picture of abs connector for right sensor.

ok so you currently are in 2wd. so lets get this beat. 1. make sure you have a good positive and negative connection to your battery. 2. check the main ground from battery to frame to engine mount. now that the grounds are good make sure the connection for the wheel sensor is actually plugged in. its near the drivers side strut tower in the engine bay ill take a picture for you. as far as cleaning it goes, im sure you could even just wipe it if you remove it, I used brake cleaner.

You are correct r32 Gtr manual states front right sensor....try cleaning it, it’s very easy to take off. Just curious are your abs and 4wd light on? I just went through all this shit I’m sure we can solve it quick.

haha I always enjoy your posts m8, how long have you been into skylines for? my favourite part that ive ordered is definitely my quaife front diff with dulock v2 g sensor. mad traction m8!

Canadian gtr rain or snow ready to go they should have never ended production of these cars! I’m sure impressed with how the car handles snow, ice, rain, She goes to work everyday and is super easy to fix. Fairly fast for -5 setup but nothing compared to the mates in Australia. You guys have some amazing skylines down there and the knowledge is endless! Non the less here’s my old girl. I let my husband drive from time to time haha.

hard to find words for these cars all I know is this is for me as high as the bar gets, id take either one of those cars over a maclaren or Ferrari if there was no such thing as dollar value and it was the only car I could ever own. unreal cars absolute stunning balance of class and history. fakin weapons mate...….

correct, my car came from an import shop call B-pro in Vancouver. The selller sources out the car and its history with an inspection report, and importing fees included in price. stay away from sketchy importing, if you don't know much about the car and a proper inspection report is not provided id think twice... unless your ok with gambling on roughly 30-40k! I wanted a compression test done on my car as well. once that was provided I send the money. car still had a pile of issues lol....however rust free, healthy drive train like I asked. 4wd/abs bulb were burnt out car was in 2wd when it arrived(needed g sensor and attessa control unit) and needed coolant system completely redone. I think its safe to say all these cars come over from japan needing some work.

Wanted to see all the rare parts, custom parts, or even just simply really expensive parts you don't see everyday that makes these cars unique and awesome! even if you have a major build if you have something that stands out that makes your car awesome have a post with a picture! ill start things off with my backyard garage built exhaust. I love the unique sound and you can really hear the rb roar! a lot of enjoyment came from making the exhaust myself and only cost 200 bucks. built with an arc welder and a lot of time and bugger welds lol.

yes great way to set idle. I tried to go about this but could not achieve the idle speed with leaking intake gaskets and iacv. I could get it to 900ish with idle screw all the way in. nistune, iacv, intake gaskets good to go now. was very misleading almost made me think my timing belt was out. Found the leaks spraying brake cleaner around engine with it running mainly around intake listening for sputters didn't bother with turbo side

hey m8 mise well install a new set of pads while you got the caliper out. will last a very long time if so. might even be good time to have the calipers powder coated with a new Brembo decal keeping her clean! I wish I did this with mine before I got horny and just threw them on for 50 thousand km lol they have become faded and need a facelift. the backplate for caliper I had to cut a bit. here's a pic of mine installed with regas. took me 1.5 hour per side taking my time.

sorry for the double post but my plugs were also blackish until I addressed this issue, cheers.

might be a long shot but I noticed when I had a boost/vacuum leak on my 93 gtr in ran very rich and this caused the car to smoke when I would shift without boosting the car hard. anytime I boosted it would run clean as fak. also if I let the car idle to long it would stumble. I addressed the leak(iacv and intake gaskets) and havent seen smoke since or had a stumble(plugs would fowl from sitting to long in a rich state until I gave it a good boost to clean it out. mine was faint white smoke but you could smell fuel not coolant or oil. I do get the odd smell of oil here an there but I think my -5s are on the way out lol....good luck mate

very good point I had troubles setting mine later finding out my idle was to high. I had to replace my iacv and my intake gaskets to get the car to idle proper without cranking iacv screw super far in. might be time for a nistune m8

might be time to give the coolant system some attention for some preventative maintenace. thermostat, rad cap, proper water pump install, mise well do your belt at same time.clean rad or replace. make sure the heater core isn't plugged and is working proper. give it a good coolant flush make sure you get all your bubbles out and away you go. Then you can sleep easy knowing your coolant system is serviced.

he can also look into water meth injection kits if he wants to run large boost on what ever turbo he decides. that's what I have setup on my car works great and keeps valves clean etc!