MoMnDadGTR

I never had the controller in “swing mode” was my original issue when I installed it and I was boosting 1.5 bar lol

Hey buddy, Yeah mate I get the psi in bottom right that’s nice, I just don’t know why it’s always reading peak hold in top right. I’m trying to change that. The warning boost setting is nice, hear it the odd time in lower gears.

It’s Does run a little more boost with some creep now but the car feels great and my air fuels are wayyyyy better now according to the gauge. I’m gunna leave the setup just went for a rip she feels like an animal now. I don’t wanna touch my haltec I just got by car back it was locked up at Toyota”virus reasons”. Once my tuner is back I’ll have him set it up again make sure all is safe. New stainless 4” custom exhaust this weekend will update!

Hey mate of course. I have it set to same target boost. I use it as a boost gauge really. Like I said I don’t care about the functions, the car seems to run the same just wanted to see if anyone thought it would damage anything. I like how it looks to just a cool piece. I have some rare hks gauges I wanted to mount up beside this controller just for looks.

Finally bit the bullet and put this complicated thing in. Plumbing and wiring was fairly easy although I didn’t hook up the rpm and tps wires(blue and white), I didn’t want it to mess with my tps system and read that it’s ok to not have these hooked up, I’d I’m wrong let me know. My air fuels are still good and car still runs great. If you have this boost controller and have any pointers for me on the settings would be much appreciated. I have my target boost set in both a and b (14 and 18). I don’t plan on using “scramble mode “ or any special features, just want to make sure I haven’t missed anything and I know there’s lots of smart mates out there. And yes I have the manual and have read it lots I’m just a shitty learner by reading. Always dive head first and find out what’s up.I more or less put it in cause it looks cool and my son likes it says wow when it turns on. I do have a haltec so I can tune with that and just pull this thing back out if you guys think it’s a bad idea. I would like to keep it as my boost gauge tho I think it looks great! Also I mounted the step motor upside down as you can see cause it fit nice there let me know if this is also dumb, hopefully the long vac line to the wastegates isn’t an issue(should it be mounted closer to gates). Just looking for pointers or confirmation that my setup is nice. Thanks mates sorry for hammering away just trying to be thorough.

I’ve always had this evc but never wanted to install it as every time I got reading about setting it up seemed pretty complicated for what it was worth. Anyway I like the screen and the a and b setting option so I figured fak it give it a shot. I still don’t know if it’s set up right through the evc, although I know the plumbing is right. Any pointers would be great I didn’t bother hooking up the rpm or tps signals. Seems to work fine I reach my target boosts and a bit more sometimes in low gears....1.3 on -5s feels great! Also I mounted the step motor upside down just cause it fit better you can see in the pictures. If anyone thinks this is a bad idea let me know seems to work fine tho. Last photo is where you run the wires through the wirewall behind the wheel well on driver side.

haha I hear yeah man, the mountain of parts get bigger! no expense spared for the skylines!

hey mate just wondering you still have this setup and if it comes with a tune? if so what turbo setup was it tuned with. im interested pm with details

any updates on the issue mate? curious as to whats going on with your car....

haha I should have left it at that would have raised hell lol....my 32 dynos around 425whp I would get smoked lol. she is old as fak but does the job fun car to enjoy with the family.

hahah just a nice casual 2 r35's and a couple porches that's big meech status….anyways my 32 would smoke any 4 of those cars so I don't even know why your looking for an r35...….lol ya right just kidding mate. my friend has a 2012 and im sure he has a hole in his floor from matting it time after time. car seems to love it. its not tracked but driven hard. seems like these cars hold together nice at lower hp and with quality maintenance. see a lot of people buying these cars that cant afford them that's when they seem less reliable.

nice where did you end up scooping those brackets? im adding a bunch of electronics /gauges/evc6 to my gtr this weekend and have this alternator but was going to just fab the brackets.

sorry for the simple double post, check all your grounds and battery connections as well.....dodgy connections can cause a world of issues.

ya I don't see the washer/gasket behind the cas this will cause issues. also I changed my coilpacks and plugs still had a misfire and wouldn't rev up same as you. ended up being the harness itself to the coilpacks. looks like you have upgraded coilpacks, what ecu are you running? as gtsboy stated you need to check your maf voltage before you do anything mate. start with the easy stuff you cant just assume your maf is good. get your hands on another one and try that if you dont want to test it. this is where I would be starting.

Very important piece, you installing on stock pump?

I remember the dyno was lower in the low rpm after custom down pipe and exhaust were upgraded to straight through from a hks hi power setup. Didn’t bother me etg’s are loser and my top end sounds mint. don’t know why we lost a bit of power

good call. I did loose a little bit of low end tourque with my 4" but I just said fak it looks mean from behind(can see the tig welds to make the bend, I have it as tight to the car as I can get it and its still sits low. will pm you a picture when I get my car back. im in same boat as you cars stuck in shop.

you are blacking mate! nice work lots of good stuff on this thread!

nice work mate, good job on following through with the photos to makes things way easier to help. Good call on doing the whole system when you do your rad. just a note.....maybe water pump, timing belt, pulleys and tensioner bolt when you do radiator. sure you already knew that. when you pull the crank pulley off make sure you have a proper puller or it will damage it other than that its a pretty easy job. some water pumps use a gasket some just Permatex seal. make sure that coolant system is bled good in meantime, stay safe mate.

the very first picture is awesome hahaha. if that's you, you can just tell your in love with her. good for you mate. I remember when I first got my car I couldn't shift or walk I was so excited. blunts n boost man enjoy that beast.

great car mate these r33 platforms are sick. that clutch you have is unreal, overtime will become your best friend. every skyline needs a clutch like that and a driver that's willing to kick it once in a while. that's a really nice car tho mate looks awesome. set that thing up with a front facing manifold and a top mount and you will have your self a WEAPON! cheers mate. watch for cops easy to get speeding and driving hard in these girls.

that diagram is the one you want it is the same as the one in bnr32 manual. I had this exact leak I replaced the line didn't fix it, through a new clamp on from princess auto and fixed. its the water line for the turbos. I replaced line after line on my 93 gtr before I said fak it and replaced all the coolant and vacuum lines car never ran better. I would replace the hose and the clips I got all my stuff from terra firma and kudo. If you haven't already done it, while you have the coolant dropped on the car I would replace the 2 small coolants sensors one for the gauge and one for the engine while you have the coolant out, as well as the thermostat while you got it apart just make sure you install it right. sometimes a plugged up coolant system causes these leaks. my radiator was completely plugged up as well from 30 years of what ever.....hope this helps mate.

wow mate that doesn't sound good. doesn't sound like a release bearing at all so I would forget about that. something with the flywheel or pressure plates something is definitely wrong. wont be the gearbox the cars no moving. take it back to where the clutch was installed and get them to look at it. if you can do it yourself not a bad project during this covid shit. take the transmission off and inspect the clutch. from the video sounds like a engine bottom end issue so hard to tell from that. I would start by pulling the clutch, inspect, post some pictures on here of the plates, flywheel, etc. if its good put it all back together and see if sound is still around. I honestly feel like I can hear the sound the entire time it is only muffled when you pick the slack up in the clutch. quick question has the 150 miles you put on it been clutch kicks and boost maniac or just sunday driving? sounds like a bottom end issue mate the video is misleading. check input shaft for miscolouring or wear and tear. if had clutches put in wrong on my dodger trucks and they don't last long at all if the clutch is not setup perfect and true. not to bash the clutch you bought but I see way better results from os giken, orc, Nismo coppers but that's just an opinion I am not a mechanic at all just a guy whos had tons of issues with skylines and cars haha seen quite a bit. ps drop your oil at same time just to make sure, if you find metal shaving and what not could be from engine.

3.5" definitely be fine BUT if it can be squeezed in there I would fight to have a 4" straight through on that beast! keeps that turbs tight n cool like nuns vageeeeeeeen. could ball right out and do a custom titanium or a nice 304 ss custom. aes, vibrant make some nice 4" inlet mufflers.

yeah that things sick, she likes the track that one.