MoMnDadGTR

i agree duncan but the head gasket was leaking out the back corner on the intake manifold side because those 10mm bolts were not installed on the corners of the head to block and the leaking coolant wrecked the gasket. another thing that was missed when they built my motor. i recieved it pretty much turn key but should have looked for this.....nightmare mate.

Thanks mate im going to drop my oil 58 times before driving it out my garage. then im going to go park this POS in my storage bin and never look at it again. ive developed a hate for this car throughout this process and honestly couldn't care less about it anymore if i was rich i would burn it for sure. the only thing keeping that garbage head from gettting slammed on that garbage block then getting skidded till my regas have no lip left on them is the value of the car. i have no time for this car anymore and will be taking the first crap offer i get for it. i could spend 100 grand on machine work and id still have a garbage motor at the end of the day cause no one knows what the hell there doing with rb's in this area. im so fed up with doing everything absolutely perfect to the point where i set up an entire fab shop in my garage so i could build this car, to only have it wrecked every single time a shop does something to this car. i have more fun driving my rav4 v6 through the bush setting up hunting spots then spending days on days researching and spending every dollar i have on this car only to go fast a couple times then pull it apart cause a professional machine shop that has been in business for 30 plus years cant put a f**king guide in properly and continue to try and use crap guide. hard to make sense of stupid. that being said i thank you all for your help but im over this shit. cheers.

Ok mate thanks for the info, what would be a better pad I cold use in future? Is it the colour of pad or the scuffy itself?

Yeah I didn’t know enough about guide installation but after some review and study, and with knowledgeable reply’s from the boys it’s very clear how incorrect it is to assume a leaking guide could reseal. I don’t need to break there necks but I will be firm on Monday and make sure new guides are installed. Thank you for reply mate. Cheers

Absolute trail fixes forsure. Red flags were everywhere when they told me how they were trying to fix it. And yeah new guides forsure now this has just been nightmare for no reason the head could have been tested prior to mating it to the block. They rushed it now I’m paying the price for it. It’s not just about getting the head right Now, its costing me new gasket, studs, fluids, new wb1 sensor that got trashed with oil. All my parts are covered in oil on exhaust side. Time and labour to get it all back together. Cause they couldn’t simply text there work. Oh well this is a classic for a machine shop that in Canada. This is why I wanted to send my block and head to Australia a year ago now look where I am. Tried to trust a shop with a very basic restore. Big waste of time and money turning into a not so fun process with weird o rings in my head to seal the valve guides(way the actual f**k) Would have been way cheaper and way more reliable if I would of just paid the shipping to a reliable rb shop. Oh well I’ll be back just want to try to get some money from this shop now. I’ve learnt a lot through all this I won’t let this shit ever happen again. Trust should go no further than testing everything you possibly can before starting a new engine. Oh yeah when they gave me my motor back from machine work the first time my camshafts were in backwards....I’m to nice and have been to kind to these guys now I’m in a pickle n a half.

Yeah absolutely I fully agree new guide. That’s why I was confused when they reinstalled it. The shop is 300km away and they have troubles calling back. They went ahead and did all this weird crap that’s why I posted their trail fix ideas with o ring garbage etc. I’m just going to get the head back Monday and start from scratch with a different set of guides. The guides were brand new super tech ones as well as the rest of every part in that head. I’m surprised there was a faulty guide....it’s hard when your not doing the work and just being told what there doing......

No problem. We have it 95 percent sealed still see some solvent sneaking through on test. This may be a long shot but the shop has suggested/went ahead and put a rubber o ring ontop the guide and press the valve seal down ontop of it as cheap insurance. Cheap is definitely the word.....I’m not super confident about this and am considering just regrouping and not bolting this head down. I’m frustrated as hell. No one has ever seen this before the shop said it’s the first time they havent been able to seal a guide to aluminum head blah blah excuses are about as cheap as the work they did on my head. They did not try new guides, I was wondering why they shoved the old one back in. I don’t know enough about it but sounds like it’s turning into a scab crap show on my fully built lemon head. Not the way I want to make 800hp. I put so many hours making sure this car was perfect. My brain hurts.

Well im glad i brought the head to the machine shop as the seals were not the issue, ended up being a poorly sealed valve guide in between the head and the guide, could see it with air and soapy water was leaking like crazy. we heated up the head and took the guides out on that cylinder and sure enough the one that was leaking had a slight scoring on one side that left a verticle line. we smoothed it up and shoved the guide back in with some special adhesive/sealant stuff and it seems good now. will see how it reacts in the car. I gave my block a good go with a green scuffy pad to try and get the surface shinnyish and knock off any material the tomei gasket left behind. does anyone have any better ideas how to get a good finish on the block again? it was decked prior to and is dead square and flat. heres a picture of what i got it like so far

well my ocd got the best of me and i couldnt wait for the tools to pulls the valves myself. i ran the head to the shop/machine shop that built the head and they plucked out the valve that was dumping oil from the top of intake valve expecting to see something really wrong. well seal looked perfect, valve looked perfect, guide from what we can see looks perfect. any suggestions as to how else oil could get down ontop the intake valve? this is happening as i post this i might have a an answer in half day.....maybe the valve guide is cracked but i dont know how that much oil is getting past the seal in the first place....i told them to put a new seal in and try dumping oil ontop the retainer once its all installed and see if it drips down the valve stem like it did to me.

yeah mate hopefully all goes to plan should be running again right away. only question now is i dont really know what to ask of the machine/building shop. they did such a great job on everything else i dont really feel like going there swinging my fists and burning the one bridge i have to machine my rb's. i want them to pay for a new head gasket/studs/ and my time. i feel this is fair considering i may even have done slight damage to the rings as they didnt get to seat with the rest of the pistons. now i just have to find out a way to get my block to shiny finish again. the tomei head gasket left some coating behind and before i go hammering away with sand paper i need to know what and how to do it properly to get the proper finish for tomei metal head gasket

scratch that i ordered the proper tools and parts to get this done in my pos garage. gunna have a beer and forget about it for a bit and make a phone call to the engine builder on monday.

no i found it forsure, i took the buckets out and filled both my intake valves full of oil just pouring it over the retainer and spring. and would you believe it the one valve just started filling and pooring out oil onto the floor and the other valve stem stayed dry as a nuns you know what. im wondering if the seal is even in there. can i remove the valve by just balling up a rag and pushing down on retainer with socket? i have to clean up my exhaust side to they looked bunged.

Still may be oil ring Ben. I cold compression tested the engine before I tore the head off and it was 135 across all 6. Would a bad oil ring actually let that much oil past the rings in that short of time? It’s the most cakes I’ve ever seen a valve stem in my life(exhaust side) I poured oil ontop of all the retainers on that cylinder and haven’t seen any oil leak past the seals and guides yet

Got the head off, the intake valve looked wet with oil on the stem hard to take a picture, I assumed my exhaust side would look ugly/bad with oil pouring out those those two valves on exhaust stroke.16 hours in garage my brain hurts. I’m thinking just take the valves out of that cylinder and replace what need be, new head gasket, new arp studs as stripped one back nut bad(still got her out tho thank god, broke my finger when the wrench slipped no big deal. Never a good day n the garage without some blood on the rb. Bottom end I’m pretty sure is ok, as Ben said could still be bottom oil ring but I don’t think so I’m this case as I could see oil on that intake stem.

yeah not so much the valve itself but i want to shove a camera up the intake this morning and see if its on the stem behind the seat. cheers mate glad at least my compression check came out good

could it be mangled valve stem seal? im going to shove a camera up the intake and see if the valve stem is wet maybe????

compression was 150 give or take a psi across all 6 infact piston 4 was highest compression probably from all the oil in there

piston number 4 has always had my number mate, swapped around injectors and coils same stuff. compression test time. hoping just a mangled valve seal. was pulling pretty good for just a five banger hahaha

ive changed the oil out 4 times in the last 200km, went from ams break in 30 wieght to valvoline 20w50 hi sinc. i was constantly loading it up like i was told as if i was on a dyno. i had my computer plugged in every drive and it never ran rich at any point. can see the other plugs are nice. the other pistons and rings seated great....i checked my haltech no wierd trims got accidently inputed on that cylinder. im gunna do a compression test right now. im tihnking a valve seal is totally mangled. or rings are not installed properly and oil is just blowing through the gaps cause they are lined up or something. this is a wierd one definitely a motor build issue. ill keep posted on this one.

I bought a prp tourque plate for machining, had the crank balanced and grub screwed, did everything I felt was necessary to make a great engine..... I feel this was a engine building error....checked for spark in that cylinder as well but it idles on cold start like nothing is wrong and seems to burn no oil when cold. all other pistons seated right away im confused and scared....

So I’ve been slowly breaking in my new motor for about 200km. It had a very good tune that was still quite close so I fired it up and began breaking it in plugged into the haltech making small adjustments as I went along my way on spring pressure essentially just hiway driving it up and down the gears no flat foot crap. Everytime I stopped moving I noticed my catchcan smoking more than regular, and I would blurp the throttle and see smoke from exhaust. I would drive the car in 50km intervals and always checked the catchcan. More moisture than anything in there, This last time I drove it I saw a tiny bit of oil in can. I checked my plugs and got a scary site....all cylinders are perfect but number 4 is totally soaked. built head with super tech everything. Tomei headgaskst, Basic bottom end redo with pistons, rods, bearing, crank, nitto pump,1.5mm head restrictor, leaks spec sump, rear head drAin, before I go pulling motor any suggestions? My good buddy says maybe stuck injector, poorly installed valve stem seals, or rings weren’t installed proper on that piston. I did not build the motor so I cannot say if the rings were gapped and installed correct. Very good engine builder and all other pistons were fine...everyone makes mistAkes tho. Just looking for input on what to do now? I was going to switch my injectors Around and see if it fouls another spark plug then I know it’s an injector. Feel like my motors coming out....I tried another spark plug, I tried thicker oil before that I new I had one set spark plug out of the 6. The car weirdly still runs very good.

ive completely hydro locked 2 engines offroading both toyota 3.0 v6 engines that came in the pickup. pulled the plugs and cranked till all the water came out and the engines and they both came back around. your motor is fine i wouldn't stress, change the oil, change the air filter, keep on keeping on mate.

Ross Tuffbond Metal Jacket Harmonic Balancer for Nissan R33/R34 RB26 – Raw Brokerage i see this one has the same size drive for water pump and powersteering. i think that a good one.

Ross Tuffbond RACE Harmonic Balancer for Nissan R33/R34 RB26 – Raw Brokerage nope.....im still an idiot i think this is the one.