MoMnDadGTR

remember im a dumb canadian trying to make a r32 gtr go vrooom its a daily struggle as im a visual learner so i usually have to break something, try something, or beg for help on sau till i get it right. thanks again brother your a good chap.

no worries mate this car makes me feel retarded everyday. heres a link to a relay i think will work. is everyone running solid state relays these days on there pumps? is there any other down side to these relays other than the cost? cost is never a issue to me if its a better option and is going to work better. we dont built 700hp cars trying to save money im pretty sure ha. ESR10-NC2A4HB-00-D2-17A E-T-A | Relays | DigiKey

i also had a brand new walbro 450 pump completely crap out in less than 3000km of driving. it was failing slowly and the car couldnt deliver fuel uptop. i found a very hot relay in the back so i replaced the relay and a new pump. i used better external wire and a better relay and it seems to be ok. the relay still gets a little warm. i now have a second pump to stage in at 12 psi so we will see how that goes.

im going to give it a better crack today ive just been very busy with tree and trying to get my dyno building ready for the summer. im going to try a gates belt, re configure everything, new hall sensors, see if i can get the prp trigger kit to work. seems like the cas sensors can get hot and fail prematurely and im done with that issue as well. ive fried 2 cas already dont know if its from turbo heat, but i have a band new one on from kudo now and its working for now.

yeah it was the weirdest thing chap. we had a consistent signal with the ecu cranking with injectors disabled. as soon as we unlock timing and enable injectors it up it would start quite easy actually. i would hold the timing gun on the crank pulley for about 15 seconds then the timing would go all crazy and it would loose its signal and die. we are going to try a new hall sensor hopefully the sensor was just stuffed. i know this would be a rare occurance but ive seen enough rare occurences on this car to not rule it out. cheers mate.

there is a certain amount of deflection the timing belt needs when your doing it. just take you time its not to bad. you use an allen key to put a little extra pressure on the belt from the tensioner. turn the motor over a couple of times by hand makes sure the timing belt isn't walking. i would replace the bottom washers as well but not ideal. let me know if i can help. cheers mate. take your time no rush. you have a nice car give it the respect it deserves forsure then you will be boosting again.

thats what i was trying to say at the start and then mates started saying dont throuw money at it. well look where we are at now lol. anything under 1000 dollars in this game is peanuts mate. go back to an oem belt the hks ones are only good with hks cam gears. the gates belt is fine. i run 700 on a stock timing belt never had an issue

and now that i see you have a hks timing belt ive seen those make wierd sounds too. just do the timing belt with the oem belt and be done with it. do the water pump at same time

duuude thats the exact same sound i had when i bought my car. i dont care what others say about dumping money at thing to fix it as this is sometimes the play. its not expensive to do a timing belt, water pump, and the pulleys and hardware. the pour thing probably needs it anyway. nice car mate take my advice and just do it. it may be that other vct thing but im unfamilar with those cam setups. im going to guess 9é10 its a timing belt and tensioner issue cheers.

you bet buddy. turbo 400 transmission, 76mm turbo 150shot, full leather interior with a cage fak the world that car started as a auto NA supra and was the benchmark and still is for the area. its left han ddrive which in our neck of the wooods is unreal because we cant passs on the hiway that well with right hand drive vehicles(no angle to see cars coming at you as we only have one divided hiway in canada. very nice car owned by a super nice guy. he actually owns toyota dealership and owns the hub dynos im using. hes let me use the toyota building if i need a hoist for the last 15 years. great humble mate lucky to have as a friend! has a legit trd supra too ill try to snag some pics of it too.

Thanks good mate very kind words world needs more of that! This was me fixing the oil leak yesterday on the side of the dusty trail lol. And I mean every one minute a semi drove by And dusted me out lol. Tuning at its finest hope the e85 tune goes well today cause I worked my tail off to get the car there last night! IMG_2497.MOV

im going to use it on my rb26 with an elite 2500, cheers mate.

My friends supra and the old r. Wicked supra over 1100hp

Happy campers with there new gear while dad wears rags to finish the car....lol

Off for some ice cream, Wendy’s, e85. Life is good

tooted the horn to early it died on the way home today. no big deal tho figured the pump was dead, and i have 2 other pumps wired up in the tank already so i simply snipped the wire to the dead pump and wired up the other pump and away i went. man im good at breaking things lol. almost 1am when i should be home with my family the gtr almost did it this time. oh yeah oil drain almost lit on fire too haha. the old gtaaah getting spicy these days.

i figured it out was a cheap relay for my fuel pump, new relay fixed.

check out that small fray in that wire and let em know if you think that may be an issue brother. thanks mate. this issue is far out and i just wanna lean on the throttle again

Amen brother. thats why i post every hour on this site lol cause i am essentially useless lol. i do try my best tho and research and wrench very hard and put my time in mate. i can fix anything just not used to the tuning.... hammer down rb power

everything i buy is from australia as well so cost will be the same and a bit more than what it is there(shipping etc) i waited 4 weeks for a new CAS only to find out not the issue lol. thats tuning at its finest on my end of the woods. My GTR is an alien to most people around here they stare at it like what a piece of shit lol until i crack it and scare there baby up a tree from the wastegate lol. but she runs like a shopping cart right now so illl just keep hiding in my corner till shes back to her normal self

hey rob good to see you post up here. thats exactly what my mechanic friend said as well is that could be high resistance. he also mentions the dwell settings maybe could be adjusted if incorrect. it is a brand new prp coilpack kit if anyone could send me there dwell settings as reference. and yes i need to switch to an elite ecu at this point cost doesnt matter im alreay broke from the car. this platinum is killing me, but for the time being it should work mate. that picture i posted of that small wire frayed to my cas clip, think that could cause resistance. could be 2 seperate issues the misfiring uptop and the not starting when hot. the not starting when hot is wierd cause i even had to dump water on the brand new cas to get it to start last night at the pump. i tried every one minute to crank it and it would not get fuel so i said fak it jumped out and dumped ice cold water on the cas and it fired right up no issues ran like a bat out of hell for 2 minutes then when what ever gets hot she runs like crap under boost, and everything just trips out. idles fine revs up fine but knock light wants to flash and feels like everything is way out of wack. tough hope i get it figured pulling my hair out.

Finally got what I needed for my tune and you guessed it yet another issue and can’t get it on the dyno. My cas is failing when hot ( car won’t start when hot until I dump water on cas, and starts to not fire injectors or spark i don’t know yet and runs like marbles under boost. I’ve tried 2 used ones and one brand new one from kudo which cost more than a trigger kit. My prp trigger kit I’m still waiting for new sensor to try it again with the platinum pro, cause it wouldn’t work with my platinum it kept loosing signal when running then would die. I’m starting to think that maybe I have some bad wiring somewhere because the prp trigger kit would always loose its crank signal but the cam one was fine. And now I can’t get any cas to work proper. The worst part is, is the car runs great until that cas gets hot. Maybe resistance somewhere in wiring? I dunno I’m tripping out. This ones far out. You can here it in this video the car is barely even moving and can barely get ahead of it self when it normally has a great hard pull on 20psi. Small little imperfection on the CAs wiring but tough to say if it would cause misfires. I did have a loose bolt on the ground wire for my battery(in trunk) to frame to motor. Wasn’t crazy loose but I could move the welder gauge wire(nice and thick) back and forth until I tightened it down. Also I have my nitto can cover back on hoping it helps with some heat IMG_2480.mov

sometimes the alternator just a bit tight and needs a little pry bar action🤘

loosen both bolts then theres the tensioner bolt you need to back right off then your free, or just cut the belt and get a new one if your all bound up. there is a socket tool you can get rounded bolts out with. you should print off the manual for your car as well mate. here to help just ake your time and communicate more on the site and you wont end up with rounded bolts. should be able to take that fan on and off a million times without rounding the bolts....

Rb26 vs m60 v8. Lol I’d rather have oil issues than listen to that wanker v8. Although probably a better engine than the rb lol. Almost a shame to rip the Beamer apart it’s a nice unit. IMG_2453.MOV IMG_2420.mov