MrStabby

Re Oils, i'm about to do mine, and here's what i've decided on (and how much you need according to the R32 shop manual); Gearbox and front diff - Redline lightweight shockproof (4.1 and 1 litre) Rear Diff - Redline 75W-90 (1.5 liters) Engine - Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40 (4.5 litres, or 4.9 with new filter) - because i have some. Next time i'll use a 0W-40 or 5W-40 fully synthetic, maybe even the Delvac again - it will certainly keep the engine clean. I'm also going to add a remote filter mount, oil cooler, and oil temperature gauge. That "report your engine failure" thread is making me paranoid.....and i want to do some track work. Notes; - The redline stuff is expensive, but in theory will be good for 300,000 kms so i wont be changing it again. At a minimum go for a fully synthetic 75W-90 for the gearbox. - Make sure you use an LSD compatible oil in the rear diff - You can use lightweight shockproof in the rear diff, but apparently the LSD will lock a bit so you'd notice some chatter when turning tightly. I wanted to avoid that, hence the use of the 75W-90. - Gearbox requires GL-4 spec, diffs require GL-5 spec. FWIW I doubt any fully synths would be lower than GL-5. HTH, Kot

Tnx Dirt & Kami, the gearbox is out! Spent all day today getting the twin plate cage apart (three broken allen keys later and i had to drill the last bolt out...) anyway its done now. Got any tips for flywheel bolts? Obviously i'll need to fix the flywheel somehow. Cheers, Kot

Hi, The xmember is already lowered - i still cant reach. Cheers, Kot

From the workshop manual it looks like there's a bolt at 12oclock - how do i get this out? There doesnt seem to be any access. Which side should i come at it from - exhaust or front driveshart (I havent removed either at this stage). Tnx, Kot

I've had the same thing a few times recently, co-inciding with a cold snap of weather. Since i'm doing the clutch now, the box oil will be replaced with Redline lightweight shockproof at the same time, which i hope will help. If you're not already running a fully synthetic 75W-90 or shockproof in your box, it might be worth trying that out first. Synthetics perform much better at lower temperatures than minerals, and its a much cheaper option than pulling the box... Kot.

Hi All, Car is a R32 GTR. The clutch is reportedly a twin plate OS giken. Its very grabby, has a very frim pedal and feels like it must have a solid center (ie no springs to absorb the shock, so its pummels the box and diff when it grabs). The car is near stock and makes 243 rwkw when the boost is wound up. IMO the clutch is OTT for this setup so i am looking at a more traffic freindly single plate. There is some slightly crunchy bearing noise when the clutch finally fully grabs, or if you give it some throttle very low in the rev range while the clutch is engaged. What bearing is this likely to be? Obviously i'll replace the release bearing with the new pressure plate, but what else? IIRC there's a bearing in the rear of the crank that the shaft from the gearbox rests in (is that the spigot?) so i'll replace that while its all apart. Are there any other bearings (in the gearbox?) that may need attention or i should do while its all apart? Cheers, Kot