MrStabby

Summary: Rang an EBC stockist for a quote on pads and after some back and forth he suggested that DS2500s would be a better package for me, in particular mentioning wear. He doesnt sell Ferodo, so his honesty did him out of a potential sale. FWIW Prices for R32 GTR are: Street/Track; DS2500 front: $295 (UAS) EBC Reds front: $250 DS2500 rear: $260 (UAS) EBC Red rear: $250 Track only (street temps will cause poor initial bite and accelerated wear, but 20% higher friction) DS3000 front: $380 (UAS) EBC Yellow front: $363 DS3000 rear: $380 (UAS) EBC Yellow rear: $300 Rgs, Kot

Good to hear it went well. If you're doing another flush go for the Motul RBF600. It seems to stand up to the punishment well - i dont feel like i need to bleed my brakes after track days since i've been using that. BTW, i suspect my brake problems may have been contributed to by completely stuffed upper control arm bushes... Rgs, Kot

The porsche was running 16inch rims so the rotors couldnt have been as big as the 324mm's i have on the GTR now (with the sumitomo calipers and extention brackets). I think the pad surface area would have been about the same size. The 324s seem a lot better than the 296s, but i still got some wobble. I also measured the rotor temp with the 324's and it was only about 300 deg by the time i measured (so it would have been a bit more on the track itself. None of the DBA4000 thermal paint stripes had gone off tho, so they couldnt have been that hot. Maybe i just remember the porsche better than it really was... maybe porsche use better material in the rotors...??

Its was an 1984 (so the big single piston jobbies, not the "hand of God"'s) 928S auto. Even with the greens they brakes felt nicer than the GTR's dual pistons + DS2500s, which as stated by others should be a much better track pad. Rgs, Kot

In the R32 GTST GB thread SK mentions Heasmans Sydenham NSW East Coat Suspension Kirrawee NSW St George Steering Punchbowl NSW

I have that UAS upgrade on my car. IMO they're ok, but; - You have to do a lot of modification of the bracket or the hub to get the brackets to bolt on. I was a bit uncomfortable with the amount of material that had to come out. You NEED an angle grinder. John will tell you they are not a easy fit. - You have to bend the buggery out of the copper brake line to get it back in the caliper, as the bracket moves the caliper down as well as out. I was concerned with the amount of bending required. If i were to do another i'd try the ebay ones that just move the caliper radially out rather than out and down. My guess is that they would probably bolt straight on and not require anywhere near as much bending of the brake line. Rgs, Kot

I had no trouble at Wakefield in my 1500kg Porsche running EBC greens - cant say the same about my GTR with DS2500s... but you'll need to careful when drawing any conclusions from that. (Porsche 1:18, GTR 1:17) FWIW EBC reds are marketed for similar usage to DS2500s. Also, I have heard a similar story about a single track day trashing a set of reds, but after my own good experience with greens i think i'll try them next.

FWIW the air-con guy in the group buy section reported that there are no hard parts left to rebuild R32 GTR compressors, and the only option was a new one at around 1500. His supplier had 2 left and couldnt get any more after that.... The 1300 option doesn't sound too bad to me. Cant see the point in changing the condensor tho. I got a second hand compressor from SSS for 260. Its works a bit.... Rgs, Kot

I've done this by myself on the garage floor, elapsed time from getting it out to getting back in ended up being about two weeks....(long story) - it wont take you anyway near that long, but it will probably be a complete BIATCH. Anyway i got some good tips from here so try searching for past threads on the same topic. From what i can remember, - You'll need 2 x 500mm extentions to get the top bolt(s) out. I used some electical tape on the uni joint to stop the socket from flopping down, but still offer some flexibility. - Take the front pipe off - Stubby ratchet ring spanners are you freinds - If you're changing the clutch dont forget to get a clutch aligning tool to make it easy - I had two trolley jacks and wanted a third - Dont forget to block the hose that connects to the rear of the box, or you'll loose all the fluid from the resevoir down - When you're putting it back on, you have to push the box up rotated (cant remember which way) then when you've got it in position rotate it back - i couldnt get it back in if i tried to just lift it straight up. hope some of that helps, Kot

Count me in. Strathfield CR's at camperdown have a gravel carpark on the opposite side of the street, a little bit further down from the shop. Its close but not that close... Rgs, Kot

Did you put a fully synthetic oil in? Synthetics have far superior cold temp performance compared to minerals. I went for the Redline lightweight shockproof, as there were many on the list who swear by it for use in tired gearboxes. My personal guess would be that any decent synthetic would probably do, but the shockproof completely fixed the cold temp gear selections problems i had (this was back in winter). BTW i sometimes found that when it was sticky i could get it in first by selecting second, then first. HTH, Kot

Police car thread on SAU? Someone's got to do it..

I doubt whether you'd get a 3in through it, as I *think* the stock cat is narrower than that just inside the flanges. So you're next bet would be a 2.5in pipe - that might fit, or may still be too large. If you go for 2.5in or less it probably wont flow as well as a catco/metalcat style cat, due to the turbulence created when the cross section changes. Also dont forget that ppl who gut cats are complete ass-clowns, and you dont want to become one of them. They bugger up the environment (contributing to the annual 1200 exhaust emmission related deaths) and leave themselved exposed to heafty fines, all because they're too tight to spend <$400 on good cat. HTH, Kot

You probably mean http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/, which was my first point of referral before posting. http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/dow...si/vsi_dl1.html Contains some interesting info, but i couldnt find anything to assist me with this question. Rgs, Kot

Yep - that's how i interpreted it, and why i posted here. Sorry about that. I'll repost in NSW. Rgs, Kot

A buddy of mine got defected for having a boost gauge "outside the cushioned area". I've been wanting to improve the mounting of my boost gauge, and like to have everything legal - so what needs to be done? The gauge is currently bare on the outside, and has a thin metal braket quite poorly mounted to the pod surround. It doesnt restrict vision at all as its low down on the RHS. How do i attach it in a legal manner? Can i get a mount that covers the entire gauge and is cushioned (and would that necessarily be considered legal) Tnx Kot BTW - a sticky listing common defects might be useful - anyone interested? Ie somelike like the list below, but not the guesswork of someone who doesnt know what they're talking about.... I will start a new thread and compile the list from your input if there's any interest. - atmospherically vented BOV - wheels that touch bodywork - aftermarket computer - boost controller - exhaust above X db - catalytic converter with matrix removed - any part of vehicle with less than 100mm clearance to the ground

This makes sense because the compliance cat probably had a 2.5in inlet and outlet. The two step changes in cross section where it bolts up to the rest of the system will hurt flow, as turbulence is created up and downstream of the section change. The original poster should bite the bullet and get the catco or metalcat. Better performance, no fines, and wont screw up the environment. Reaming the cat is the way of the bogon....you're better than that. Rgs, Kot

I sms'd Rob today - he said "Just called them AGAIN - i think i let you know they were due last week but didnt show. They should be sent out today and i should have by wednesday at the very latest". If they keep stuffing him around he's going to let us all call them and start complaining. If he doesnt get them on Wednesday i'm going to name and shame, this is pathetic. HTH Kot

My 2c - I think i better way to state the question would be "how far can i push the stardard turbos with a particular setup before i significantly increase the risk of failure". That is, you're looking for the sweet spot at which you get the most power without having a short burning fuse under the bonnet. From an engineering point of view anedotal evidence is of little value. One persons story of survival at 17 psi without issue is not a useful indicator of anything. In statistics that's a sample size of one, and you cant make any useful judgement on that. Guys like R31Nismoid have seen a lot more than one case and can therefore make a realistic judgement on risk. Of course when he says 1 bar he is also assuming the turbos are not worn out and the engine is tuned correctly, because naturally all bets are off otherwise. FWIW i asked CRD if running 14psi on my R32 GTR is a concern and they said not at all (but its only 231awkw and uses their tune). BTW, I have a vague memory that the maintenace schedule states that the turbos should be rebuilt every 100,000kms.... HTH, Kot

Great guide - I would just add the following to that; - I used a big socket on the nut on the front of the crank (balancer) to stop it from moving (but then, i did have to replace my flywheel) - If you do have to re-install your flywheel, use engine oil on the bolt threads - Use copper based grease (coppercoat? sp? coppercote?) or nickel based grease on the splines (input shaft to clutch plate). I also put a touch on the clutch mechanisim pivot points. - Use of a torque wrench is mandatory! BTW - i have the GB clutch in my 230kw GTR at its perfect for the way i drive and the traffic i have to drive in. Feels like it will hold a lot more than 240kw - but i'll probably found out soon enough... HTH, Kot

I have asked a thermometer vendor and he has said that the infrared will work with brake rotors, and supplied me with emmssivity values for rusty cast iron, polished cast iron etc. I think the "black surfaces" issue may no longer be correct. He suggested using a thermocouple to verify the correct emmissivity, and since its only an extra ~$65 i will get that as well to increase my confidence. Should only need to use it once to do the verification, then i'll just use infrared from then on. $220 for up to 760 degrees, $65 for the thermocouple, $15 delivery. Rgs, Kot

Evil, A good set of pads will cost maybe $200-250, rotors more like $500. I wouldnt replace the rotors unless they're under spec or cracked. IIRC spec is 28mm minimum for R33's (whats a R34 GT-4? do you mean R32 GTS-4 or R34 GT-T?). I only machine if they're warped or if i accidentally trash a set of pads at the track and go metal to metal ;-) (machining cost me $10 but i removed the rotors myself). If you dont like the rust got nuts with some wet n dry sandpaper. I dont bother machining when i change pads, i just use wet n dry to remove the old pad material from the rotor before i put the new pads on. HTH, Kot

Dont you just adjust the emmissivity to whatever is approriate for the material you're measuring? Or am i missing something? Yeah i've got the DBA4000s which come with that - does it work once only? Ie burns at a certain temp? Or must you view it when its hot? Either way its a bit crude, i'm really interested in a thermometer. Rgs, Kot

Looks like the cheap infrared jobbies only go to about 400-500 deg c. Is there a cheap way (<$300) than i can measure rotor temps after track runs? Say up to ~800 degrees. Doesnt need to be too accurate, i just want to verify that i am within the deisgn spec of the rotors. Cheers, Kot

Hi Rob, Its been about 5 weeks now - any ETA for delilvery? I can pick up from the welder if it will make it quicker... Rgs, Adam