MrStabby

I have :-)

Not a cop. Once my FC is in there I expect it will meet emmissions targets with the right tune and cat, and therefore not hurt the environment (well not any more than a stocker - its all relative). Personally, i'm not that concerned about the legality, as long as it meets emmissions requirements. I will get it engineered if I require it to be formally legal. I will take it for the freebee emmisions check. The original poster said he was a noob therefore may not realise what's legal and what's not. You at least owe it to the guy to mention it. Look out for a brother. Kot (part time tree hugger)

If you've figured that out, then why did you say "They do squat!"? Wouldnt it be more helpful and accurate to say "They do squat until you adjust them". So you have experience with a cbr600, but what about RBs? Have you played with cam timing on the them? Its only "pure crap" with your false interpretation about the gear adjustment - one that you appear to be selecting..... Beer has no need of maps or engineer's opinion as the engineering has already been done and tested many times. The real-world information is well known. Kot

CRD said that my old ceramic stockers should be fine with 14psi with the conservative tune they gave me. So, the boost figure that will be safe for you depends on the state of the tune as well as the condition of the turbos. AFAIK (which isnt much) the standard fuel system is only good for ~280awkw, and after that you'll need higher spec injectors and pump. You probably wouldnt want to go that far with the standard ECU anyway... I guess that doesnt help much... Kot

It might work well but it's irresponsible, illegal, and could cost you up to $22,000 in fines. If you cant afford the cat then leave it as it is until you can. You probably wont be able to justify polluting the environment to the strife either... Sinistagtst - do you think its wise (or even legal) to encourage someone to commit a crime? Kot

Sydneysiders could check out Frosty Auto Air (Phillip Callas, 0418 608 680) he had a group buy at http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=98646 and charged me the group buy price a few weeks ago, so i guess its still valid. I watched him work and was impressed. After he'd done the work he measured the pressure that the compressor was making and told me that its worn and probably wont be that cold, especially on hot days. He was right, so my cars back there now. Unfortuately he found there are no rebuild parts left for the R32 GTR compressors, so i can get a new one for $1450 (ouch) or he will see if he can find a generic replacement (he had two other R32 customers with the same issue) and wants to be able to offer an option to R32 owners after the last two new compressors are sold out (his supplier is not expecting to get any more). IIRC R33 owners should be ok. A re-gas by itself is not a good idea, the dryer/cleaner should be replaced every two years to keep the system in good condition. Its only $220 so dont be a tight-ass, it might cost you a $1450 compressor down the track... HTH, Kot

Air con guy recommended in on this site cant find any suppliers with rebuild parts for these compressors, and he's been told that there's only two new ones left in Australia and they're $1450 each. He's been told after they're gone there wont be any more. Does anyone have other options? Are they available in Japan (my mate has a Japanese wife, so i should be able to bring one in). Has anyone substituted an alternative compressor? Cheers, Kot

I did 1:18 in the porsche, so not that much slower, but it felt a lot slower with its doughy suspension and auto gearbox...I think i must have been driving better back then. I had already removed the spash guards as i heard that alone should help a bit. I also looked at trying to run cooling ducts - it wont be easy on the driver side tho with all the BOV and intercooler piping - its very tight in there. You dont like the $800 unique autos 324mm front rotor with adapters for the existing calipers? That's the one I think i'll try first, as its more stock like with regular R32 pads and R33 GTR rotors. With the extra $1400 i can get powerfc and dyno tune muhahaha....

Yep that does make me feel worse - ultimates with 160kw and 1:10 - DAMN! I'm heading back in a few weeks to practice... Yeah i see your point but i didnt have any problems with my Porsche 928S - it only had single piston calipers and was running EBC greens. I want a permanent fix.

Both rotors are 32mm, so they're at new spec. I could machine them again, but i would expect them to warp again - dont you think? I can see an 8 piston kit for $2299 - is that the one you mean? That's one way of looking at it, another way could be that you're not accellerating enough between corners ;-) Well i only managed 1:17 in a GTR, so i guess that means i suck.... Were you using street tyres? I'm running cheapo Federal 595SS. What brake pads?

Force = pressure x area, so the force exterted by the caliper would be proportional to the area of the pistons. If the total area of the pistons on both calipers are the same, i dont think there would be that much difference. I think the nissan calipers have equal sized pistons whereas the brembos have uneven sized pistons, so there's some optimisation there, but i have no idea how much effect that would have.

> What colour do you mean by discoloured? A blue tinge on the rotors doesn't mean much. Blue ring toward the outer edge, and some silver spots about 1 cm in diameter. > Check the thermo paint - you will probably find that all three have gone off which is indicative of fairly high temps. AFAIK it doesnt have any. They're stock looking but slotted. No idea what brand, but the slots are conventional looking, so they're not 4000s >What I found happened to my front rotors was they developed fine cracks which looked to me to be around the grain boundaries of the metal. These aren't pretty, but keep an eye on them. Have you tried to locally sand or machine them out? Cracks concentrate stress which makes the crack spread. The rotors may last longer if you can spread the stress over a larger area by machining the crack out. Its sort of counter intuitive in that a thinner section can be stronger.

On my second outing to Wakefield (this time with DS2500s on the front and Motul 600) the brakes stopped ok, but developed a shudder. I've just bled all round and noticed the front rotors are discoloured. Does this mean they went beyond their usable temperature range? If so, i'll probably try some 324mm front rotors with caliper adapters from unique autos. The kit comes with either DBA4000 or 5000 rotors - do the 5000s handle extra heat much better? They're a lot more expensive... tnx, Kot PS - Its an R32 GTR (non-brembo)

If you're asking "why did it fail", that's easy - knocking (pinging) kills motors. When it occurs the pressure inside the combution chamber spikes very high and pummels your pistons, rods, crank, and bearings. The weakest bit then breaks. Filling with lower octane fuel after a tune is opening up a nasty can of whoop-ass on poor Mr Motor... -Kot Wikipedia entry on knocking

The PM hasnt arrived - system must be flaky. Can you email me at adam at jaftan.com.au instead? Or call me on 0414 864 732? Cheers, Kot (Adam)

Rob260 - I'm looking for a 3.5in with flanges for skyline - am i too late? PM me the bank details and i'll drop the $345 in tonight. Rgs, Kot

Unique autos and JustJap in sydney both sell it for $25. The Unique auto guy reakoned i'd need two bottles. I'll be doing mine this weekend thanks to this forum Fluid flush info link Rgs, Kot

I want to do a complete replacement of my brake fluid but i have some questions for the experts; 1. Do i just pump it all through with the pedal after replacing the fluid in the resevoir? 2. How will i know when all the old stuff is out (and how much will i need for R32 GTR)? 3. Does the ABS unit need any attention? 4. Is it ok to use high temperature fluid (Motul 600) in a car that does the occasional track day but is mostly street driven? Cheers, Kot

The anti Redline info specifically refers to Redline shockproof in new gearboxes. Redline also make a fully synthetic 75W-90 that would be suitable. Also Castrol Syntrax 75W-90 is a contender - probably any fully synthetic of the right weight would be fine. HTH, Kot

BB - Payless Tyres at Chatswood & Tyrepower Alexandria do them. Here are some quotes i got on 255/40/17s Payless Chats; - Federal 595 SS = $190 - Federal 595 RS = $380 Tempe Tyres; - Flaken RT-615 = $375 - Khumo 712 = $180 Tyrepower Alexandria - Federal 595 SS = $190 - Federal 595 RS = $390 - Falken RT-615 = $360 - Khumo 712 = $250 HTH, Kot

Thanks SK, The kit arrived today. Two questions tho; - Do the rear upper arm suspension bushes require a press for removal/installation? (Or can i do it myself) - Rougly how many hours work so you think it would taker a shop to fit all four bushes? (I might just get the aligner to do it) Cheers. Kot

Hi SK, The bushes and strut bar still havnet arrived. I sent you a couple of PMs but no response. Can you let me know when i should expect the kit to arrive? (order was placed on the 5th). Cheers, Kot (Adam)

I just checked and they're NAs. There's no circlip - the spring base is welded to the shock. The circumference of the outside of the bottom coil measured 305mm so the diameter is 97mm. Does anyone know what the stockers are? Cheers, Kot

R32 GTR with ride height of 330mm all round, which is a bit too low for my liking. The car has fixed base Tein suspension (adjustable damping), so i guess that means i need new springs. Will I be able to just swap the springs for some Whiteline 83157's (340mm)? If the tein spring base is at a different height to the stock stuff i wont end up with 340mm - does anyone know if the base hight is the same? Tnx, Kot

J, Did my flywheel recently - 3 bolts came off with the rattle gun, the others required a slug with the hammer first before the rattle gun worked. I've found lots of stuff stupidly over-torqued on my car. HTH, Kot