MrStabby

The power's in my sig (242kw). Tyres are Federal 595SS's - adequate street tyres, not very grippy on the track tho. Brakes held up much better since i rebuilt the calipers, but after not that long they went off and got more and more shudder. Yeah shudder was the only problem, i think they were still pulling up ok but i do tend to back off when they start to shudder badly. 1:15.5 (using Racechrono - its pretty cool) around Wakie with a fair bit of understeer.

Setup: R32 GTR, UAS 324mm rotor upgrade, DS2500s, Motul 600, rebuilt calipers Here's what they look like after a track session; And when they get that blue colour around the outside they shudder badly. I can sand it off with wet and dry and things go back to normal. So what should i try next? Maybe - DS3000s (are 2500s really good enough for track?) - Cut off backing plate/guard - UAS brake cooling air deflectors - ???

Pretty sure the housings are stock - the clipped wheels are smaller than stock, hence the gap.

I undo the bleeder when i'm pushing the pistons back, for the reason you just encountered, and because i dont like the idea of pushing old fluid back into the system. I'd rather add new fluid to the master when i'm pumping it back up. It should be ok tho, just bleed it now, pump it up with the pedal and drive carefully until the pads bed in. Yeah just wash the spilled fluid off the engine bay (but dont get any on the master)

Ok, in case anyone is interested; CTW is clipped turbine wheels = highflow. What the hell, i'll bang 'em on with some split dumps and see how it goes on the dyno. If the response is crappy i'll stop being a tightwad and get the N1s.

Or to look at it another way the wheel is too small. Bugger. Thanks all for your opinions.

Transmax Z has a higher boiling point than regular ATF, and should last a lot longer.

Unused rebuilt stockers with steel wheels. Receipt from Lavish Performance lists "2x CTW Turbine wheel", no mention of hiflowing.

Did i buy a pair of duds? There is a lot of clearance between the turbine wheel and the housing - the wheel just looks too small. This looks more like what i would have expected.

I would guess the curved vanes provide more surface area and better fluid flow, so better cooling. Maybe the limited run is a beta test? They're also copying what appears to be a better design - alcon thought well about stress concentration.

Environment: DBA4000s, DS2500s, MBF600, backing plates, UAS 324mm kit Roy, i have the same problem with cooking the outside face of the rotor only. I also assumed it was stuck/dragging pistons and rebuilt the front calipers last weekend. I hope that wasn't a waste of time! Anyway, i'm going to Wakefield on the 8th for some 'testing'. I also noticed that it was a bit patchy and appeared worse between the 'vanes'. Perhaps the inside face of the rotor is pulling heat across from the outside face, thus cooling the area at the vanes better that the air in the between the vanes does. I should have taken a photo before sanding it off.... Its hard to see how this could happen unless the inner pistons are stuck. Force = fluid pressure x area, which is the same on both sides.

http://www.oilrecycling.gov.au/directory.html

No its shouldnt be more difficult to shift. The common recommendation is lightweight shockproof, not heavy. Perhaps that's the problem. Shudders would only occur in LSD diffs, not gearboxes.

The point is; - You'll be better protected during those 30,00kms (and beyond) - You dont have to change it until you get to 100,000kms

I'm guessing, but different crank = different harmonic frequencies, and the balancer will be tuned to dampen specific frequencies. So no, it wont do the job even it it fits.

Its a bad idea. Read this; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...standard+shocks

I'd get the alignment checked anyway - eg too much negative camber at the back will affect power down. But yeah diff - some oils will tighten it up more than others if you want an interim solution. Does anyone know the theory here? I was told that redline light shockproof will make it a bit more shuddery when turning hard at low speed - so i guess that means the LSD plates grip more. Sort of make sense, because its also recommended for worn synchos. Or i could be talking out of my a** again. There was also a thread on shimming diffs to tighten them up. Hello Mr Searchy.

IMO you'd be crazy to use anything other than Transmax Z. If the Motul ATF is not synthetic (like transmax Z is) then it cant have anywhere near the same protective properties. Normal ATF has about a third the service life of Transmax Z, it breaks down at much lower temperature etc - its far inferior. Using gear oil is crazy talk.

I was stoked - PB for me of 15.9 (on street tyres). Even tho its not great its still more that two seconds quicker than i'd done before, and no offs. I still had brake problems. Pretty sure they're dragging causing overheating so its caliper rebuild time. I hope no-one had anything expensive break.

The redstuffs should be fine. Just call on Mr Searchy to find numerous threads here on how to quieten squealing brakes.

They have to be the exact same size or they wont fit....

Yep, and at this stage I would demand a refund for the original work, as you cannot trust this workshop (as long as Fair Trading agree you can do that) Muhahaha

I have the flare and; - Found a Tomie hicas lock bar computer under the parcel shelf when installing speakers (and i checked the hicas and the spacers are there) - Adjustable cam gears - CRD reckon its probably got cams as the cam gears worked best at 0 deg - Nismo radius rods (who cares they're the same length as stock) - Braided clutch and brake lines Previous owner didnt know about any of it

Lightweight shockproof is often recommended for tired R32/R33 gearboxes. Dunno about the diff - ask Redline for a recommendation here

So - was it the same mechanic both times? Are you worried you got ripped when you first got the car as the pedal was soft making you think the stock clutch was left in? Why did you replace it again after only 10,000kms? FWIW, my organic HD was marginally stiffer than my mates stock one. Remember that better design can somewhat offset the extra pedal effort that comes with a stiffer pressure plate. Also i imagine there are difference in the pressure plates of different brands of clutch.