MrStabby

http://www.oilrecycling.gov.au/directory.html

No its shouldnt be more difficult to shift. The common recommendation is lightweight shockproof, not heavy. Perhaps that's the problem. Shudders would only occur in LSD diffs, not gearboxes.

The point is; - You'll be better protected during those 30,00kms (and beyond) - You dont have to change it until you get to 100,000kms

I'm guessing, but different crank = different harmonic frequencies, and the balancer will be tuned to dampen specific frequencies. So no, it wont do the job even it it fits.

Its a bad idea. Read this; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...standard+shocks

I'd get the alignment checked anyway - eg too much negative camber at the back will affect power down. But yeah diff - some oils will tighten it up more than others if you want an interim solution. Does anyone know the theory here? I was told that redline light shockproof will make it a bit more shuddery when turning hard at low speed - so i guess that means the LSD plates grip more. Sort of make sense, because its also recommended for worn synchos. Or i could be talking out of my a** again. There was also a thread on shimming diffs to tighten them up. Hello Mr Searchy.

IMO you'd be crazy to use anything other than Transmax Z. If the Motul ATF is not synthetic (like transmax Z is) then it cant have anywhere near the same protective properties. Normal ATF has about a third the service life of Transmax Z, it breaks down at much lower temperature etc - its far inferior. Using gear oil is crazy talk.

I was stoked - PB for me of 15.9 (on street tyres). Even tho its not great its still more that two seconds quicker than i'd done before, and no offs. I still had brake problems. Pretty sure they're dragging causing overheating so its caliper rebuild time. I hope no-one had anything expensive break.

The redstuffs should be fine. Just call on Mr Searchy to find numerous threads here on how to quieten squealing brakes.

They have to be the exact same size or they wont fit....

Yep, and at this stage I would demand a refund for the original work, as you cannot trust this workshop (as long as Fair Trading agree you can do that) Muhahaha

I have the flare and; - Found a Tomie hicas lock bar computer under the parcel shelf when installing speakers (and i checked the hicas and the spacers are there) - Adjustable cam gears - CRD reckon its probably got cams as the cam gears worked best at 0 deg - Nismo radius rods (who cares they're the same length as stock) - Braided clutch and brake lines Previous owner didnt know about any of it

Lightweight shockproof is often recommended for tired R32/R33 gearboxes. Dunno about the diff - ask Redline for a recommendation here

So - was it the same mechanic both times? Are you worried you got ripped when you first got the car as the pedal was soft making you think the stock clutch was left in? Why did you replace it again after only 10,000kms? FWIW, my organic HD was marginally stiffer than my mates stock one. Remember that better design can somewhat offset the extra pedal effort that comes with a stiffer pressure plate. Also i imagine there are difference in the pressure plates of different brands of clutch.

I was told that shockproof will make the LSD shudder a bit. I used lightweight shockproof in the front (open) diff and gearbox, and redline 75-90 in the rear diff. Just make sure that whatever you get for the rear diff is LSD friendly. Also, you should use a GL-4 in the gearbox and a GL-5 in the diffs.

Here's what i'd do; 1. Check rear tyre pressure ;-) 2. Check the alignment - can make a huge difference. Aligner should comment if the tie rod ends are stuffed, but ask the question anyway 3. Check the bushes - cradle and control arm If all that's ok it shouldnt be too bad. Then look at; - hicas lock bar - subframe (cradle) alignment bushes - aka pineapples - stiffer sway bars

If you take the rotors off yourself, its like $5-10 per rotor. Make sure when you re-install them that the mating surfaces are completely clean, ie shiny metal. Any crap between these surfaces will also give you a shudder. No need for new pads.

This is probably the best suggestion so far. OP said that the problem occurred when he got new tyres and an alignment, so looking at the tyres and alignment should be the first thing you do. If you have the alignment specs post them up for review. I wouldnt go too cheap on tyres either - stuff like falken 452s and federal 595SS are reasonably cheap and quite decent. Think of how much you spend on petrol - an extra $50 a tyre is nothing.

If you're only worried about the understeer, then you need a stiffer rear sway bar. This causes the rear wheels to do more of the work when cornering, thus reducing understeer. I have my GTR setup with whiteline adjustable bars, full soft on the front, full stiff on the rear and its about neutral with that setup. Dont forget to check out the Suspension/Handling articles sticky also.

The Gtech uses the weight as an input to the calculation of horsepower, so that needs to be accurate and include everything - so dont forget to add the weight of the driver (and passengers). Also it will read a bit low on horsepower as it assumes no wind resistance. The quarter mile time on the other hand is directly calculated from the accelerometer input, and should be very accurate.

Hey All, I'm booked in. Hopefully i'll improve on my embarrasing 1:18s.... Captain Really Effin Slow

Check out garretts website - the -7s are R34 N1 equivalents @310hp, the -5s are bigger @360hp. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...0R_707160_5.htm http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...0R_707160_7.htm

Pretty sure the service manual states that the stock turbos should be rebuilt at 100,000 kms. Not following that is asking for trouble. You wouldnt run the cam belt past its service interval, so why do so with turbos? So i say no level of boost is safe as your operating outside the turbos service life. Of course, its all about risk...

I never believe anything tyre retailers say - they recommend whatever they have in stock. Stick to your guns and get the tyres you want. They should be able to order them in.

Bugger... 500rpm is too much for me. How much are the -7s? You mean more bandaids than usual.....bugger again.