MrStabby

I was told that shockproof will make the LSD shudder a bit. I used lightweight shockproof in the front (open) diff and gearbox, and redline 75-90 in the rear diff. Just make sure that whatever you get for the rear diff is LSD friendly. Also, you should use a GL-4 in the gearbox and a GL-5 in the diffs.

Here's what i'd do; 1. Check rear tyre pressure ;-) 2. Check the alignment - can make a huge difference. Aligner should comment if the tie rod ends are stuffed, but ask the question anyway 3. Check the bushes - cradle and control arm If all that's ok it shouldnt be too bad. Then look at; - hicas lock bar - subframe (cradle) alignment bushes - aka pineapples - stiffer sway bars

If you take the rotors off yourself, its like $5-10 per rotor. Make sure when you re-install them that the mating surfaces are completely clean, ie shiny metal. Any crap between these surfaces will also give you a shudder. No need for new pads.

This is probably the best suggestion so far. OP said that the problem occurred when he got new tyres and an alignment, so looking at the tyres and alignment should be the first thing you do. If you have the alignment specs post them up for review. I wouldnt go too cheap on tyres either - stuff like falken 452s and federal 595SS are reasonably cheap and quite decent. Think of how much you spend on petrol - an extra $50 a tyre is nothing.

If you're only worried about the understeer, then you need a stiffer rear sway bar. This causes the rear wheels to do more of the work when cornering, thus reducing understeer. I have my GTR setup with whiteline adjustable bars, full soft on the front, full stiff on the rear and its about neutral with that setup. Dont forget to check out the Suspension/Handling articles sticky also.

The Gtech uses the weight as an input to the calculation of horsepower, so that needs to be accurate and include everything - so dont forget to add the weight of the driver (and passengers). Also it will read a bit low on horsepower as it assumes no wind resistance. The quarter mile time on the other hand is directly calculated from the accelerometer input, and should be very accurate.

Hey All, I'm booked in. Hopefully i'll improve on my embarrasing 1:18s.... Captain Really Effin Slow

Check out garretts website - the -7s are R34 N1 equivalents @310hp, the -5s are bigger @360hp. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...0R_707160_5.htm http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...0R_707160_7.htm

Pretty sure the service manual states that the stock turbos should be rebuilt at 100,000 kms. Not following that is asking for trouble. You wouldnt run the cam belt past its service interval, so why do so with turbos? So i say no level of boost is safe as your operating outside the turbos service life. Of course, its all about risk...

I never believe anything tyre retailers say - they recommend whatever they have in stock. Stick to your guns and get the tyres you want. They should be able to order them in.

Bugger... 500rpm is too much for me. How much are the -7s? You mean more bandaids than usual.....bugger again.

There are three mating surfaces where you could apply the glue - pad to shim, shim to shim, and shim to piston. I *think* shim to piston is the critical one. I also left the grease between the shims. Cleaning it off may not have been a good idea.

Slide used to do a pair of highflows for $1600, and CRD and others do a pair of garretts for $2500. Non-slide high flows will probably be more expensive, as Slide had good prices. I have some follow on questions, as my turbos have done 100,000km so i'm looking at these options. - would a rebuild be about the same cost as a highflow? - are there other ancillary costs when going to the garretts (mods to reduce oil flow? new lines?) - how much different is the spool response? Nismoid, does "Same response as stock virtually" mean that the garretts are a tiny bit slower but its barely noticeable?

My 32 GTR came with 3inch front pipe, stock cat, then 3.5in apexi system. After putting in a 3.5 inch metalcat, the seat of the pants dyno said extra ~20kw. Car went from [email protected] psi to 242@13 psi (brought to boost down for extra safety margin a long time before the cat went on) +1 for Adrianos comment - that's my plan.

Check out Paul's PowerFC FAQ Here first, then google, then try again here if required ;-)

Gas is produced when the organic pad material breaks down, and the slots are there to provide an easy exit. This prevents the pad and rotor friction from being compromised by the layer of trapped gas. I'm sure i read that somewhere...hopefully its not BS Ferodo DS2500s FTW

Nissandatascan has a rom dump feature so i guess so. Yes you need a consult cable - i bought the plms one and it works fine.

The fitting instructions for the whiteline kit (which i assume is the polymer version of what you have) are HERE

Heavy duty organic clutch should do fine. I bought one from C & B's group buy Here. The GB is pretty old so it might be closed now. Very easy to drive and holds 242kw no problems. The pink ones are probably similar. Whether the flywheel needs machining depends on its condition - much like brake rotors. AFAIK there's no need to use a twin plate clutch until you get to ~300kw+. The standard clutch is single plate.

I have the same problem. I replaced the rotors - no difference. My next step is to clean the rotor to hub mating surfaces to make sure they're both shiny metal. Some of the stuff i found on the web said that even a tiny bit crud on here will cause problems. I've done one side and it took 3 hours.... but i wanted to be sure it was perfect. Its worth a try.

Wakefield Park - 2 hours from sydney, nice safe circuit Eastern Creek - maybe 30-45mins from the CBD, more interesting than wakie, but more chance of hitting something if you have an off

He ran it on a dyno and verified the result, so there's no much room for doubt. I have a consult interface and have datascan and ecutalk - neither of which show knock. Do you know of any consult software that has knock reading? Datascan can monitor arbitrary memory locations, so i assume if i knew the location i could read the sensors output...

If you want to keep changing the tune, burning EEPROMs and changing them will become tiresome, so you could try; http://home.aanet.com.au/nistune/

So could you use a large vice in place of a press? What other special tools? I wouldn't mind trying to rebuild it myself.

I agree that putting a resistor in will make it run leaner, but dont forget what Adriano said earlier - the AFM's response is not linear, so if you use a resistor (which is linear) you will stuff up the signal in the rest of the curve to "fix" it in the part you're looking at. That's why you use a piggy back instead. Its a clever resistor that tweaks the signal by different amounts for different inputs. BTW - i'm guessing, hopefully someone that knows can confirm/deny!