MrStabby

Ok i was heading north up the hill to the harbour bridge and the engine just stopped. Cranked for a bit, restarted, got to the top of the hill then it died permanently. I assumed it was fuel pump, have swapped it with a sard (which i can hear priming ok) but it still wont start. Checked CONSULT - no errors. What do i do now? What's the easiest way to check for spark and injector operation. I can't hear the injectors over the engine cranking noise, and i don't have anyone to listen for me.

I'll be there, and R33SKY should come as well.

Unique Autos didnt have any problem supplying AFR at that SAU dyno day. I dont think any shop that is confident and competent would have a problem providing it to you. In this particular case they gave you a BS reason for not being able to supply it, so dont go back. If their true reason is that suggested by mad, they're being dishonest with you - another reason not to go back.

True - but getting it back in is the hard bit, and I found it much easier to bolt up the front driveshaft after the box is in. Trying to get them both in at the same time while you're trying to twist and turn the box around to get the input shaft into the clutch plate just makes a difficult job harder. YMMV - i've only done it twice.

The fibers are on the clutch plate. Its sandwiched between the flywheel and the pressure plate. The gold bit is the housing for the pressure plate and spring.

Changing the fluid sounds like a good plan, especially since it might be quite old. Synthetic ATF will perform much better at higher temps so try that. It is exxy, but you'll probably never need to change it again. I'm using Castrol Transmax Z. Next step after that would be a cooler i guess.

If BB says it can get noisy then yes that could be the noise What head work did you get done? Was there cam work? Maybe the head guy thought your tuner would do the clearances. You can set the clearances with the head on - just need to take the cam covers off (no shit huh?)

I couldnt fit a normal ring spanner or socket on those drive shaft bolt heads - might be worth getting some thin walled sockets before you start. I used 2 x 500mm extensions, with a universal joint at the bolt end. I wrapped some electrical tape on the joint so it didnt flop around too much. Also get someone with skinny arms to help ;-)

For stuff you cant find at hardware shops try Coventry Fasteners. Eg i got the allen bolts for the ignition coil cover there. http://www.tef.com.au/coventry/divisions/i...ontacts.htm#nsw

You cant expect much grip from cheapo rubber like NS2's Try 35 to see how it goes. Also check If the inside of the tyre is wearing out more than the edges (which means you're running too much pressure) <edit my retarded comment> double check the rear bar is on hard (ie the inner setting). Otherwise get a decent suspension shop to check your alignment. BTW - is the brake squeal sorted? What was the fix?

There's a o2 sensor sticky in the general maintenance section... 25 pages with bad signal to noise ratio, but it might answer the question.

+1 for HackerX. They're asking all this crap to sus out your body language more thas actually being interested in the responses. This includes seeing how self disciplined you are in holding yourself back from irritation. No need to get all emo about it. HTFU. Play the game - once you get good at it you'll be able to manipulate and control the situation. Of course its much easier to do at 35 than it is at 20. Also IMNSHO the reason cops are often kents is that 99% of the people they deal with are dickwads, so they treat all ppl like they're dickwads. Like doctors think everyone is sick. Last time a cop pulled me over, i got out of the car straight away, and put on my happy "hey man what's up" act. And i got off

I'm sure any half decent lawyer could sort that out in court without breaking a sweat. Of course, you had no intention to drive the car on the street until it was roadworthy, so the ticket is bogus. Ladybytes has a good point about mods as well - just say you put full slicks on, then trailered the car to the track. There's no way the defect would hold up under court scrutiny. Similar for if you intend to only run the car in the summernats grounds, ie not in a public road. Also, if you were trailering a car in those circumstances, you could pull the CAS plug before you set off, so if you were instructed by the police to move it off the trailer you could respond with "it doesnt start".

Have you read SK's shock absorber 101 sticky? The damping adjusters are a wank - they make bugger all difference (according to a well respected Sydney suspension shop's shock dyno)

GL4 and GL5 are oil standards/specifications. The oil your mechanic used would probably have been one or the other. It shouldnt be a problem if he used either in both the gearbox and diff. Many people dont know there's a difference. It certainly wont damage things the way the ATF did. You need 1 litre for the front diff, 1.5 litres for the rear diff and 4.5 liters for the gearbox.

Sorry to hear about your gearbox - only R34s GTRs use ATF in their manual gearboxes. For the gearbox you want to use 75W-90 GL-4 For the front (open diff) you want 75W-90 GL-5 For the rear (LSD) you want 75W-90 GL-5 for LSD Try to use fully synthetic for all gear oils, and you'll never need to change them again.

Yeah your new injectors will be pushing way too much fuel in. There's a PowerFC FAQ up at; http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...powerfc-faq.htm There should be enough info there to get you going.

I have the same thing, but only after track punishment then cool down cruising at 100km/h. I assumed it may have been burnt off power steering fluid as i had a leaking hose. Only just fixed the hose so i dont know if i still have the problem or not.

I just bought some JBL 6x9s. The speaker box said 4ohm in one place and 2ohm in another, so i checked with the salesman and he said they're fine to use with a regular head unit. I've now opened the box and the speakers are definately 2ohm. The headunit's instructions says you should hook up 4 or 8 ohm speakers. So, do i need to return the speakers? What would be the consequence of running this combo?

Edit; I drained my fluid by undoing one of the pipes from the pump to the rack, at the rack and let it drain out (took quite a while). I wouldnt run the engine while draining the system, but maybe i'm just being paranoid. For bleeding the workshop manual says something like; -Top up the fluid -With the engine off, turn the steering wheel all the way to the left then all the way to the right - continue turning back and forth until you stop seeing bubbles. Might as well lift the front wheels off the ground first to make it easy. -Top up fluid if required -start the motor, then repeat turning the steering wheel all the way to the left then all the way to the right - continue until you stop seeing bubbles Then your done. I did this today. My friend looked for bubbles during the last step, but didnt see any. The steering is fine.

Sounds normal to me. The only time i get high oil temp is on the track.

Yeah sounds like your clutch is slipping. I have the old group buy 240kw one, and am currently running 242rwkw with no slip, but thats with a near stock RB26, so the torque curve is flat. Maybe just pull the boost back a few psi at a time until it stops slipping, then organise a tougher clutch.

As long as its good (at it should be with those ks) that's a great price. From what i've seen they're usually more like $800. How did you find it?

Did you mean thicker? 5W-50 is only thinner when cold. Its about 25% more viscous at 100 deg C. I'd stick with the 10W-40 unless you have an oil temperature problem, in which case you're better off fixing that than putting in a thicker oil. Remember Nissan recommend 7.5W-30.