MrStabby

The reds are roughly equivalent to the 2500s, and either sound like what you are after. I found that the 2500/3000s were getting expensive, so if the price difference is big, try the reds. Squealing is usually an installation problem...there are a number of threads here on how to stop it. I wouldnt be replacing pads in an attempt to address that problem, because you'll probably be wasting your money.

The centrino HP laptops they have been getting at work for the last few years still have a real serial port (ie RS232 with a DB9 connector). I dont know the model name but will try to find out tomorrow. Otherwise a PCMCIA aka PCCARD serial card may be better than a USB adapter judging by what others have said here, but personally i've not heard of many problems myself and we use them often to talk to switches/routers/unix/linux boxes.

Now that i know they're standard (thanks everyone) i'll be trying wreckers first, and if i cant find any there, Nissan.

My mates GTR had front brake ducts that ran from the holes in the bottom lip back to the wheel well, and they attached to the plastic wheel well liner. My car doesnt have them, but he thought they were standard. I couldnt see them in the workshop manual - are they standard? If not, where can i get them from?

You can find skyline workshop manuals at http://www.psiparts.com.au/front.asp?pid=47

The R32 GTR kit with thermostat. Here's the info from nengun; HKS - Oil Cooler Kit - Type R Nissan - Skyline - BNR32 - 200x160x32 - 12 Row - Front Radiator 15004-AN002

I've ripped out the Chinese POS oil cooler and am marveling in the awesomeness of the HKS stuff. But a few fitting questions; - Should i use thread tape? - How hard should i do up the hose fittings? - How hard should i do up the block mounting plate? I'm guessing that the o ring will be crushed the right amount when I feel the metal on metal of the block and mounting plate, so i just nip it up enough so it wont come loose (ie not that much). Is there such thing as an open ended torque wrench? If so, is it an essential tool for this work?

Dunno how bad they've stuffed around in there, but if you haven't got an immobiliser it should just be a case of reconnecting all the cut wires. There's probably a circuit you've missed. If you cant find any unconnected wires try undoing some of the looms in case there's something hidden in there. Slow and steady - you should be able to sort it out. Good luck.

Sway bars are the biggest bang for you buck upgrade. Get adjustables and you can tune the understeer/oversteer balance. You stiffen the end you want to do more work. Ie if you're understeering, stiffen the rear to make it work harder and take some of the pressure of the fronts. I run soft at the front and hard at the rear, and i'm still a bit understeery, but its way better than stock. Also check the Suspention/Handling Articles sticky for more info.

Fully synthetic and LSD suitable = looks good for the diff. From the link "Recommended for (conventional and limited slip) manual transmissions where an API GL-5 or MT-1 fluid is specified". Pretty sure Nissan specifies GL-4 for the gearbox, so i dont think this would be the best for that.

This has been covered HERE

Did you mean to say "You wouldn't and shouldn't use Shockproof in a new gearbox"? MT90 is ok right?

So JB knows he had a bad batch of plates, but hasnt contacted his customers who's clutches came from the bad batch to warn them? Can anyone confirm if this is the situation or not? If its true, i consider it irresponsible and unethical, considering the potential to loose limbs.

Have you thought about; - IIRC R34s have different diff ratios to 33s so using the R34 gearbox with the R33 diffs may suck a bit (or may not - check it out) - Will you need a custom tail shaft and how much will that cost - Availability and price of aftermarket gear sets for the 6 speed compared to the 5 speed - how much it will all cost and if its really worth it ;-)

I'm not getting a signal at my fuel pump relay. From what i can see from the wiring diagram it looks like the ECU switches the +12V and the fuel pump control module switches the earth. I have wired up a direct earth so im thinking that the FPCM does nothing now. Is that right? What pin on the ECU provides the fuel pump relay signal? My diagram isnt clear enough to see.

On most multi-plate clutches the flywheel is integrated with the cage that holds the plates to there's no way to change it. I'm sure giken etc are clever enough to put a sensibly weighted flywheel in there, so forget about it

As SK stated, this might be evidence that your shocks are not up to the job, or more generally that the sway bars are intended for use with uprated suspension. I didnt notice any difference when i installed mine, but then again the Tein suspension i have is rock hard (spring rate and damping) already... That doesnt make much sense. Were the bushes properly greased? If the bar binds in the bushes it stops it working properly.

the rotor can get stuck on the hub, so they've conveniently put a pair of threaded holes into the rotor so you can just screw bolts into them and it works like a puller.

My leak was in the hose - it had a number of blisters so it would have been a waste of time to do anything but replace it. In an R32GTR it was a real bitch of a job to get it out as the rubber bit and the hard pipe were all the one piece and the hard section was wrapped around crossmember etc. Yours should be easier. Anyways i took it to enzed and they made it new again. Get of your butt and find the leak. Only then can you decide how to fix it. I cant imagine the stop leak would be effective...

Random question & comment: Are you guys going to consider holding less stock on site or beefing up the security? You've got quite a honeypot there... To look at it a different way, imagine all your stock is cash and then think about how much security you'd want in place to protect it.

Heh i'm the opposite - did a mech eng degree and as soon as i graduated i went into IT (at the bottom of course). The industrial experience work i did for mech eng was boring as batshit - using the australian standard to join the dots design pressure vessels.... GTFO. I love IT! For the OP - i dunno what that "stage 1 and 2" CCNA stuff is, but if its the Cisco certified network associate, just run up a copy of dynamips, study the shit out of it and go for the cert. There's plenty of study guides about. Its an easy cert. You're probably going to start at helldesk, so a Microsoft cert might help as well.

To fix the camber just have the righthand side brought up to -1 37 or so. I *think* this will also bring in the KPI as shortening the upper control arm to bring more camber in will cause the kingpin to lay back more. The kingpin is the upright bit that joins the lower and upper control arms (well it joins the upper and lower pieces, has bearings to allow these pieces to rotate with respect to each other, at least). I'm not describing it well - Google for it...

I think you're missing a smiley to go with this post, as obviously you are kidding and not suggesting illegal activity. Also, guys, from the Guildlines "Defamatory remarks made towards businesses or individuals will not be tolerated on this website - We understand that if you have had a bad experience with a business you want to warn other people of said experience. Unfortunately, the same publicly expressed opinion could be viewed as libelous and/or constitute an attempt to deter business from any individual or business. Australian law holds the site owner partly responsible for any defamatory remarks posted on said website, and that is unacceptable. Informing people via PM's is tolerated as it is not a public message. With this said, feel free to post any information about a business or individual that you have had good dealings with." So help Prank out and post a "if you're intending to do business with this guy, PM me first" sort of thing instead.