MrStabby

Just to give John another - he did the water pump, cam belt, tensioner, idler, air/powersteer/alternator belts on my 32 GTR. He did great work and gave me a good price. It was also cool to be able to hang around and chat about a few other aspects of the car. Definitely recommended.

Pretty sure its just alignment. If you can get more castor added that will help, or maybe a bit of toe. If you got a printout of the settings post it up so the gurus can take a look, and give you real answers instead of my guesses.

So dont use 5.0 which is silicon. Use 5.1 which is not.

FWIW there are heavy penalties for removing emissions equipment (ie decat) for a car that's used on the road. A high flow (magic cat/metal cat/catco) style cat shouldnt restrict power at all on your setup, and will reduce the smell and the amount of black crap that will end up on your rear bar.

Could be a number of things - eg. if the cars been lowered and hasnt had adjusters added to the suspension arms the rear geometry will be stuffed. Look in the General maintenance section for a buying tips thread.

There's an ECU that controls the fuel pump - yours has probably died. Same thing happened to my GTR. I opened up the unit and found a dry solder joint and burnt pin. Its located behind the trim on the drivers side in the back seat. It receives signals from the main ECU. There was are "what are these" thread a week ago that had pictures of it. Searchy. EDIT the thread is HERE top picture

If you go GTR brembo, dont use DBA4000 rotors as they crack under track punishment. DBA5000s seem to be ok. If it were me i'd use G4 kits tho. You havent mentioned tyres.... if you're really serious you'll get two sets of rims - one with R spec tyres for the track, the other with street tyres for, uh, the street... If you dont want to run two sets of rims, go for something track friendly like Falken RT-615s or Federal 595RS (not 595 aka 595SS).

That's not how it works - both turbos are producing 1 bar for each set of 3 cylinders they feed.

The G4 kit doesnt take the pad all the way to the edge, so it should avoid that problem. Also the radial direction of the DBA4000 slot seems to contribute to the stress build up. On other designs the slots are about 45 degrees to the tangent, rather than being almost 90 degrees.

I'm guessing that corner shim thing is also to help with squeal. I'm missing some of mine but it hasnt been a problem, as i have the goo and grease to keep the squeal in control.

The bosch is not a drop in fit for R32 GTR, so i went with a 500hp sard (not sure how many liters that is). Nice easy fit - no extra noise. The bosch would have required me to throw away the pump cradle, so i would have lost pickup depth and sound insulation.

I've done that one - fun to get out huh? I also did a dodgy looking air con hose while i was there. Enzed made a new one up for me on the spot. Second hand would be waste of time IMO.

Really? Then why do DuPont claim "Teflon is not useful as an ingredient in oil additives or oils used for internal combustion engines."?

http://grapevine.com.au/~marzenna/ He's on the forum, just PM him (his name is Toshi on the forum as well). No workshop, but he has a wideband sensor and knock microphone....

If you use a cheapie oil then the Nulon might be worthwhile, but with the good stuff like Redline they will have already put all the additives in so there's no need. You might actually go a bit backwards as you will upset Redline's balance of the additive concentrations. That's the theory at least. Ring them if you want first hand info.

I havent been involved in engineering for 13 years so my memory had faded badly, but IIRC asking from something "stronger" probably wont be precise enough - you need to find out if it was brittle or ductile failure, to know what stronger will mean. Maybe best to see if you can get your hands on a broken set of gears so the engineering guys can check it out and make a recommendation. Hopefully the engineers on this forum can comment further/tell me i'm talking crap.

Oh look, he's put on his asbestos gimp suit. Sicko Victorians.

Has anyone done this? I'm thinking about buying a gearbox but will need to get it couriered back to sydney. How easy is it and who should i use?

AFAIK The fuel pump control module switches a soft earth to the pump at idle, so the pump doesnt run hard when it doesnt need to. It then switches a full earth to give the full 14volts when required. So running 14 volts shouldn't be a problem, but the earth you've wired shouldnt be necessery. I'm guessing Nissan included the control module to reduce noise and perhaps reduce heating the fuel a little. I have a sard and its not any noisier than stock.

I've bought at the Mobil on Victoria Rd Rydelmere, and the Mobil on the corner of Parramatta and Pyrmont Bridge roads recently. All the Shell's i've tried are out...

This should be in the Wanted to Buy section; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wanted-Buy-f13.html