MrStabby

This probably isnt going to help much but i was told that the squealing is caused by the piston to shim/brake pad surface. Before i ran my caliper upgrade, i was using the following and had no squeal with DS2500s Piston -> red rubber goo -> shim1 -> nissan pad grease (still there, just re-spread it out) -> shim2 -> pad IIRC the goo needs to be left for 10mins. Maybe if you dont let it dry a bit you just push it all out when you first apply the brake. Is the grease you got especially for brake shims or is it just regular copper grease? PM me if you want to come to Syd inner west to let me have a look. I'm no expert but a new set of eyes may help.

Yep vanes are on the inside between the braking surfaces. I'll take a quick look at the other thread.

I dont think the slot orientation will make much difference, but the vane orientation will (to cooling). Make sure they're pushing air from the center out when you're going forward. Squealing will probably be a pad installation issue. There's plenty of posts on how to cure it. Hail Mr Searchy for assistance.

So start soft and then crank it up. If its already quite stiff at soft you might find you just go backwards when you stiffen it - especially with respect to traction over bumpy bits. Yep - if you dont have aftermarket rollbars already, get the whiteline adjustables. From what SK told me they're the best way to improve the handling of the car for quite a small amount of money. Now that i have them i see what he meant! Start with front soft, rear medium, then bump the rear up to hard it its still understeering too much. Re: neg camber, you could consider pulling some out of your rear tyres, which may help with powerdown - just depends on where you're at now.

+1 to bnr#@ - you defiantly want the front strut brace. There's some confusion earlier in the thread between suspension stiffness and suspension mounting point stiffness. You may not feel the difference with the strut brace unless you push hard with sticky tyres, but they're cheap so just get one to give you a good basis to work off. FWIW i have the whileline adjustable sway bars and run the front full soft and the rear full hard. What alignment setting are you going to ask for?

This is a good start http://www.wtrscca.org/tech.htm. I leave my Teins on full soft for both street and track. If you need better turn in i'd be looking at alignment or stiffening rear swar bar/softening front sway bar.

Which ones are you running on the track? There appears to be Street, Sport and Race options, and i have the Street pads. Since pads are easy to change i was going to try a set of QFM A1RMs from track then swap them back to the kit pads for street use.

FWIW, JustJap are now selling these for $2000 (330mm kit). What should i ask for when buying pads for these? Do I just say I need pads for an AP caliper or do i need to be more specific than that?

Are the GTR gearboxes interchangeble if i only swap the gearbox itself?

+1 to Amec When in closed loop mode the reading from the o2 sensor should fluctuate wildly as the ECU keeps slightly richening then leaning the mixtures to get as close as possible to stoichiometric. Narrowband o2 sensors really only have two states - rich and lean - which result in two very different voltages. As the mixture flicks between rich and lean the voltage jumps up and down. Your LM1 will have a wideband sensor in which richness/leanness is proportional to voltage, so you can get a value out of it. My guess is that the spare you put in was stuffed (was it new?). There is a long thread in the General Maintenance on o2 sensors. Get a six pack and wade your way through it....

Remember that RBs have an air bleed for the cooling system, as the engine is higher than the radiator. Its at the top of the motor at the front on the drivers side.... you probably need a photo if you dont know where it is already.

Here's my 2c, but then dont mistake me for someone who actually knows stuff; Split dumps are a better design and should make more power/spool better, but they are more tightly tied to turbo size (turbine diameter and wastegate diameter). If you get split dumps designed for a standard sized turbo, and try to bolt them up to a larger turbo you may have problems. Open dumps are much less sensitive to turbo size, but wont work as efficiently.

Have you read through the Suspension/handling Articles sticky? From http://www.wtrscca.org/tech.htm "For Steady state understeer, All turns or low-speed turns only; If front tire temps are optimum and rears are low, stiffen rear antiroll bar; if front temps are too hot, soften front (most likely). If front tire pressures are optimum, decrease rear tire pressure. Increase if chunking occurs. Improper front camber. Too much body roll at front, causing excessive camber change. For Steady state understeer, High-speed turns only If front tire temps are OK, increase front downforce. If front tire temps are too hot, reduce rear downforce." etc.

More DBA gheyness, crack in the usual spot. Obviously doesnt matter that the slot is not machined to the edge. I've got the G4 330mm kit now.

Into the beers tonight? He said; Black smoke = rich mixtures, which is normal when the boost is turned up with the standard engine management. it wont cause any problems other than wasting fuel and limiting power. So, turn the boost down (ok, maybe not) or get some aftermarket engine management and a tune.

Yeah i made it home - no damage. Thanks for the push I did a 2.05, but was still getting into the zone when the hose burst. The RT-615s are a huge improvement over the Fed 595SSs

$308 for 255/40/17s from Castle Hill Jax, + $8 per tyre for nitrogen fill. CH Jax was recommended in another thread. Other places quoted $325/330. They look pretty chunky compared to the 595SS Federals i was running. I need to see what times i can do at Wakefield to make a comparison - i didnt time at EC the other time i went.

Last time i went to EC (i think this day is run by the same group) they had 4 or 5 instructors, so you'd expect it to be a bit more exy. Got a set of Falken RT-615s fitted today, just got to cut off my rear brake dust shields and i'm ready. I booked in on Monday and there were 20 spots left.

The chart with the numbers is here

Thanks bullet - that's good info. I had the treadwears as 595RS = 180 (I didnt know about the 140) RT-615 = 200 KU15 = 220 Which is in the same ballpark, but I agree the Kumho tread pattern looks the least hardcore with the Falken in between it and the 595Rses. RT-615 595RS

I'm a 'probably' for this one. Just need oil cooler, tyres, brake cooling....still two weekends away so should be ok unless work interferes.

Does anyone have first hand experience with these? They appear to be in the same space as Falken RT615s and Federal 595RS, but are about half the price. Too good to be true?

If the backing plates arent exactly that same size as the old ones, then you're got the wrong pad. Or are you talking about the distance between the caliper piston and the rotor? If so, you need to push the pistons back into the caliper whenever installing new pads. I like to open the bleeder before doing this as i dont like the idea of pushing old fluid back into the system.

Its called a flare nut spanner, but if he cant get an open-ender in there, there's bugger all chance a flare nut spanner will be any better. They tend to be a bit chunkier than a ring spanner to compensate for the cut.

I thought the fronts were db1170s, which look like this