MrStabby

I have Nissan data scan and it has an address watch feature that could be used to read knock if you knew what address the knock sensor wrote to. Does anyone know the address for R32 GTRs or have some other software that can read knock?

The 452 superceeded the 451, it should be a better tyre. By bigger they'll be referring to tread width i'd say. I used to have 245 451s and the tread width was quite narrow, about 220-225mm. so they looked a bit skinny and didnt protect the rims well. From the links that Xizor posted some are bigger and some are smaller, just check the tread width column for the size you want.

Good luck with yours. I've changed rotors, got alignment, replaced bushes etc and it still shudders really badly on the track. The next thing i'm going to try is pulling the rotors off and cleaning the mating surfaces so you could eat off them....if there's even the tiniest bit of crap it can cause a problem.

Standard pads are hopeless for track use - try Ferodo DS2500s. Also use high temp brake fluid, like Motul 600. Heh, if you're anything like me you didnt notice they were rooted on the track because you were pumped with adrenaline and using huge force on the pedal without realising!

I bought 255/40 17s for $180 each a while back (about 9 months?) from Tyrepower at Alexandria. I'm also BNR32 with 17x9s. I'm happy with the tyres, but i read a car magazine review that said the Falken 452's were better at about the same money, so i'd probably try them if i were in the market for tyres now. Since you have a quote, just use that as bargaining point, to see if anyone will beat it. They're all a bit flexible and probably wont give the best price first up. There's place on the highway at Chatswood that does Federal (was it Payless?).

I'm pretty sure the input shaft bearings are gone on my 32 GTR, but when i asked Croydon about it they didnt seem to think it was a big deal, as i'm not making that much power (240awkw). That was a year ago....but i'm gentle with my baby. A 32 GTR box sold on ebay recently for $670. Just jap used to (and may still) sell new ones for $3200.

1 hour! All i can say is It took me and a couple of mates 5 hours to do an R32 GTR clutch (no flywheel removal) on the ground. A GTR is more difficult, but still....

When i took my R32 GTR gearbox out, I used two 500mm extensions and a universal joint to undo the top bolts from underneath the car. I wrapped some electrical tape around the uni joint to stop it from flopping down, but still be flexible. You end up using a breaker bar near the end of the gearbox.

Nasty! I've done a day at eastern creek and a day or two at wakefield on a set of SS595s. No problems so far but i'll be keeping a very close eye on those sidewalls now.. Are you going to contact Federal about it? It would be interesting to see what they say, and you might get some replacements out of it :-)

Using lowered springs with the standard shocks is a Really Bad Idea™ Read this to find out why

Did you use anti-squeal shims with either grease or that brake silencing goo? If not, then the installation is probably the problem. The Nissan shim kit comes with some grease to use with the shims, but i just used the red CBC brake squeal goo (should be able to get it any spare parts shop) to 'glue' the caliper pistons to one of the shims, and the rear of the pad to the other shim. There was a little grease left between the shims. No squealing at all

That's an understatement - the difference between full hard and full soft settings is negligible, so if you're going to buy them dont bother playing with the adjuster :-) Also check out the the guru's Shock Absorber 101 sticky as well.

I have the same adjustable arms - if mine were extended as far as yours are they would foul the guard as well. I have 1 deg neg camber but the arm is only about half way extended, and i have about 10mm clearance. IIRC my car is around 345mm hight, which should mean i need to extend the arm more, not less, so NFI whats going on with your setup... If you're in Sydney and want to check out my install, let me know.

my 2c - some of this is second hand tho DS3000s - high friction 0.62 so very grippy - works well at high temp - tough on rotors (maybe only at low temps tho) - manufacturer says "NOT suitable for road use", presumably because of the rotor wear issue EBC Yellows - quite like DS3000 - similar price so you might as well use the better DS3000s DS2500s - med friction 0.5 so not as grippy as DS3000s - dont eat rotors - good for track and street EBC Reds - quite like DS2500s - similar price so you might as well use the better wearing DS2500s EBC greens - med friction 0.55 - everyone says they're crap but they worked ok for me on street and light track work You should use pads of the same friction coefficient front and rear unless you want to change the brake bias.

Some people recommend that you hit the flywheel bolts with a hammer, then try the breaker bar again. I used the approach on the three stuck bolts on my car and it worked, but i'm still not sure its a good idea...

I have this one which has ports labelled C1, C2, E1, E2. I have connected C1 and C2 to the cooler, but will it matter if the oil flows in E1 and out E2 or the other way around?

Not really sure i understand your post, but this might help if you've broken the solder joints. Hopefully you're AFMs are similar enough. Fixing Your BR26 Afm's

This guy will do custom ones, http://grapevine.com.au/~marzenna/ I think he was mentioned on the forum before - maybe there's some feedback on him so try searching. $150, or $300 if your changing injectors or AFMs. He says you should dyno the car after you install the chip - sensible advice.

Hi SK, Your inbox is full again :-) I just wanted confirmation that you recieved the $543 for; BNF27Z Front stabiliser bar Adj $219.00 BNR26XZ Rear stabiliser bar Adj $219.00 KCA349 Rear Subframe alignment kit $105.00 tnx

If they used a much thicker and/or cheaper oil than what was in it before that could be the answer, but i'd guess spark plugs are more likely to be the culprit. Find out what plugs and what oil they used, and post it up.

If you havent got it already, try putting synthetic oil in your gearbox. Synthetic oils perform much better a low (and high) temperatures than minerals. I havent had any sticking since i switched to redline light shockproof in my tired old box. Shockproof is not suitable for a recently rebuilt box tho.

Cheers to Adam and John for all their efforts. Jeers to my AFMs for going all emo after a single run. BTW - What was your number Baron? 25x? At what boost? I was happy with my 242 @ 13psi with stockies.

This is exactly the sort of info i was looking for - it has tables describing what changes in spring rate, sway bar stiffness and shock damping do. Then talks about tyre temperatures and has a Solving Handling Problems section at the bottom. Gold i tells ya.... http://www.wtrscca.org/tech.htm EDIT: Spring rate calculator's from URAS thread 1. http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/ShocksSpringRateF...te%20Calculator 2. http://www.iroczone.com/calcs/chassis.htm Wheel Weights from Mr Keets thread; http://www.wheelweights.net/ http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suspension_(vehicle)

R32 GTR rotors are 32mm wide, R33 gts-t are 30mm wide, so while they look the same the calipers are different. The 300zx rotors were only ~280mm diameter so i'd guess those calipers are different as well.

If you're going to lower, make sure you get all the extra adjustable arms/bushes & possibly new bump stops that will be needed to compensate for the changes in geometry and height. If you dont, you wont be able to align it correctly. The further you lower, the more extra kit you'll need. IIRC SydneyKid (the guru) suggests that 340mm (wheel centerline to top of guard) is the lowest you can go and still have a reasonable setup - any lower that that and it will suck. I had my GTR at 330mm then got it raised, mainly for ground clearance tho. From R32 gtst group buy link here "7. Refer #1, but most guys don’t seem to have problems at 360/350, it’s only when you get down to 340/330 that the height becomes an issue. Remember it’s 100 mm under the lowest point of the car, usually the exhaust where it goes under the rear subframe. The bigger the exhaust, the more likely it will be too low. 8. Nope, replacing bushes in the upper arms with adjustable ones is legal. Hence why the Whiteline camber kits are popular. For camber kits, this is what is usually needed for each height increment, note that all measurements are centre of wheel to guard; Standard (new) height is 380 mm front and 370 mm rear 360/350 mm needs only the standard rear camber adjusters 350/340 mm needs 1 front camber kit and 1 rear camber kit 340/330 mm needs I front camber kit and 2 rear camber kits"