MrStabby

NewKleer - I see you've got a full order, but if anyone fails to come up with the cash PM me - i will definitely buy. -Kot

This looks pretty cool to me - check it out; http://www.wtrscca.org/tech.htm

Yeah long extensions - i needed two 2x500mm for the GTR box, but that's got the 4WD stuff so its extra long. I used a uni-joint at the end with eletrical tape around the joint so it didnt droop down too much which made it easier to get on the bolt head. If your taking the flywheel off then a rattle gun will help, and you'll need to hold the crank still by putting a big mutha socket on the front where the balancer is. Also stubby ratchet sockets are handy and I got a clutch alignment tool from kmart years ago for ~$10-15.

Shock valving has more effect on ride quality than spring rate, so try turning your shocks down to full soft. I have tein NA's and use full soft for the street. Have a look at the top of the shock to see if it has an adjuster and turn it all the way anti-clockwise. Also try playing with your tyre pressures of course. That's probably all you can do for $0... HTH

These should help; http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...erfc-faq.htm#18 http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...erfc-faq.htm#58

From http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Double-wishbone_suspension "The suspension consists of a pair of upper and lower lateral arms, roughly horizontal and of similar length. The upper arm is usually slightly shorter to induce more negative camber on the outside wheel as the vehicle body rolls in a turn. Between the arms there is a knuckle with a spindle or hub which carries the wheel bearing and wheel. Knuckles with an integral spindle usually do not allow the wheel to be driven. A bolt on hub design is commonly used if the wheel is to be driven." So it sounds like you're talking about the knuckle. HTH

I've just found my generic US made relocation kit cant use the standard filter. I've bought one that will (Valvoline V028, like Ryco Z160, for holden v8s), will there be any risk running this filter? I'm just concerned that they may be designed for a particular flowrate/pressure/particle size/whatever and may not meet RB26 requirements. tnx

Umm - i think the R32 Vspec's went to 17s to fit over the 324mm rotors, 16's over your 310mm's might be tight so make sure you check the clearance before you outlay the cash. I'm guessing you'll have a better range of tyres at wider sizes in 17s. 16 are pretty old skool.

C&B used to advertise the organic for 240kw, then he lowered it to 230kw, maybe its lower now - check the group buy section. My GTR has the organic and 230kw, and it feels like it can take plenty more. Rgs Kot

Go the goo! Read thru this thread; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...161591&st=0 nathmacca - try the goo or grease first, much cheaper than new pads.

IIRC the most critical is caliper (actually the piston). I read somewhere that the noise is generated there. I think i did; pad - goo - shim1 - some old grease that was still there - shim2 - goo - piston. The goo just ends up working like glue.

Tein NAs - single adjustment (so i dont know if its bump, rebound or both). I run full soft on the street, but what sort of tuning can i do on track days? Can i influence understeer/oversteer with damping? Tnx

The way you fit the pads can make a big difference with noise. Have you got the factory anti-squeal shim kit? Adding some of that CBC goo to the back of my shims completely quietened my brakes (pads are ferodo DS2500s, which i'm guessing should squeal worse that the ultimates as they are a more hardcore pad). You can see the CBC bottle here. Any spare parts shop should have it.

Offtopic, but you can use google to search SAU (and it works way better than the crappola built in search). Just do your usual google search but add "site:www.skylinesaustralia.com" without the quotes after the rest of your search terms. Peace & hugs everybody

If you've got a few spare hours ;-) look through the "Tyres youd use" sticky - no reviews but on page 19 "PSI GTSII" bought some and posted pix. A number of posts have price info. Maybe PM PSI GTSII? AFAIK the only other similar tyres are the Falken RT-615s, which were a little cheaper when i priced them in August last year.

You're up to 30... does that mean its now full? I'd like to attend. My car has been at Heasmans for two weeks, should get it back tomorrow. New upper control arms, castor bushes and reset springs. Cant wait to drive it again!

I'd say definitely change it - i just changed my stock cat for a metal cat and cant believe the difference. Noticeably more power, smoother, and maybe better econ (got 470k out of the first tank after the change, i usually get 430/440. Maybe it was a one off...). YMMV as my stock cat appeared to be in reasonable condition - certainly no flames. FWIW i had 231awkw with the stock cat, must be like 250awkw with the metalcat.

Not at all. I suspect they have built the system to be emissions legal at many different intake temps. I made the assumption that a bigger intercooler would be analogous to a lower ambient temperature. I may well be full of crap as i have no first hand experience, but the reasoning behind "change anything and you can expect the emissions to get worse" seems pretty weak. Care to elaborate on why? Is it because the intercooler changes the oxygen composition ;-)

For my low R32, 2 sets of whiteline rear adjustable bush kits from sydneykids group buy were enough, but the whiteline front kit didn't have enough adjustability, so Heasmans are fitting adjustable arms. IIRC sydneykid reckons 340mm wheel centerline to guard is a low as you should go. If you're lower than that it might be worth raising your car to at least that level, or it may be very difficult to get a good alignment setup. Might be worth asking him directly tho...

The change in temperature and density will be measured by the air mass meter(s), and the ECU will use this signal to set injector pulse. If everything's working well it should not affect emissions much, if at all. Change in oxygen composition? Do you mean change the oxygen content of air? By what process could that occur?? For the original poster - take it to a tuner and ask for an emissions legal tune ;-) You will need to do different things depending on which exhaust gases are too high, so get an emissions check from the RTA to give you a baseline starting point. Read this thread thru to the end; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...amp;hl=emission HTH

Race brakes quoted $540 per set, compared to $555 for Unique Autos. So not much difference, and since i'd need delivery from RBs and not from Unique the difference is nothing for me.

Looks like no informed owners have responded so here's the ramblings of an idiot... all just IMO Your engine can die from; - oil starvation - pinging - overheating - turbo failure I like the well tuned PFC idea - more power and better economy, and since it will turn on the engine warning light on if the pinging gets too high, you can know if somethings gone wrong (or if you got a bad batch of fuel). You can also monitor other stuff from the hand controller (eg injector duty cycle) Bigger sump or oil cooler with have no effect on oil pressure. The bigger sump will help prevent oil starvation, and the oil cooler will help keep oil temps down at the track. Neither are probably required for street use. Keeping the oil at the correct operating temperature is important, and i find my oil temp gets uncomfortably high on the track - hopefully i'll get around to fitting my oil cooler this weekend. I wont bother with the sump as its expensive and i'm only running street tyres. I also over fill the oil for track days. High cornering speed at high RPM is where you'll get oil starvation. I dont think changing the oil or water pumps is required, start with the oil cooler first. Not having one is an odd ommission on a high performance turbo engine. Big ends - likewise not worth it. Rebuild the whole motor if its worn, or just run it as it is. Radiator - dunno my car came with an aftermarket one, but it still overheats on the track. I guess that means it might be worthwhile. Of course fully synth oil of the correct weight is mandatory in engine, diffs and gearboxes. And get some good brake pads and fluid before hitting the track. HTH, Kot

Agreed they are a bit soft for the track, but after 3 track days mine are still looking remarkably good. So they don't mind the punishment even tho the grip isnt that great. Also, for about the same money the Falken 452s did a fair bit better in one of those Wheels/Motor comparisons. So while i'm happy with the SS595s, i'd go for the 452s based on the mag article.

Thanks man. The top link/upper control arm. So the new upper inner bush is getting squashed in on the side facing the motor. If only i could find that frikken camera....i'll have another look.

Just got an alignment after getting whiteline upper control arm bushes installed. The old right hand side bushes were stuffed and i needed the extra adjustment to pull out some negative camber. The castor on the left side is ok at 3deg13mins, but the right side only is 1deg23mins. I pulled the front wheels off to have a look at the installation, and the right hand outer end of arm looks rotated too far toward the front of the car, and is squashing the inner bush awkwardly. I dont think the castor rod bushes are stuffed - but how do i tell for sure? Any idea what's wrong? Cheers, Kot