MrStabby

I get that, but only on the street. I know my rear springs are too hard, but is there another reason it happens?

I heard ages ago that you could just swap the controllers, did a 1 minute google and came up with; http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/6095-r32...controller.html which refers to this http://www.carsurvey.org/review_19225.html Which says "Unless you know what you're doing you'll be better off with an R33 or R34, but for the ultimate in more than one sense of the word, an early R32 is hard to beat. Handling can be subdued considerably by swapping in the ATTESSA-ETS AWD controller unit from R34, which pretty much makes the car behave like its newer counterparts."

That's some hardcore brake pr0n - nice one. Why did you choose this setup over one of the high end bolt on kits? A bit of adventure?

Pix please. How far? Think about what directions the bar and shafts can move in and you should be able to get an idea of if they're likely to touch. FWIW i had to grind off the ends for my white line front sway bar as it just touched my driveshafts (GTR)

I've never heard that referred to as heat soak before, but maybe i need to get out more. Google for heat soak and you'll see what i mean. My stock 32 GTR has a factory snorkel....so it doesnt pull any air from the engine bay YMMV. You're being a bit to literal :-)

Very close, the air is more dense on a cold day, so the engine management adds more fuel to maintain the correct A/F ratio, and you make more power because you're burning more fuel. And vice verca so less power on a hot day.

FWIW, here's a definition of heat soak from here. This is why you use a turbo timer, it has nothing to do with loosing power on a hot day. "When the engine is switched OFF, the cooling system becomes inactive and the residual heat in the engine from the block, head and exhaust manifold are transferred to the coolant and other engine components. The engine temperature actually increases after a hot engine shutdown. This is called 'afterboil' or 'heat soak' and can be damaging to engine life."

From the pic, the compressor AR is .42 so check that against; http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/gtr-turbochart.htm

+1 Resoldering is so easy you might as well. I did mine even though they appeared to be ok.

Nah it was one of the high pressure ones. Eventually got it out (took hours) and got Enzed to replace the rubber section for $80. Also did a badly blistered high pressure air con hose at the same time.

Same thing happened to a mate of mine. "Security" car park in unit block, lots of windows smashed including his R33. Pennant hills area.

My experience is that the whiteline adjustables lasted a week before the drivers side chewed out. No problems with the noltec thus far (~6 months). The Noltecs were installed by suspension experts who also did other work, the whitelines werent - no idea if that made a difference. The -2 you have shouldnt be chewing out tyres, but -1 is more conservative. I suggest you go to a suspension specialist rather than a tyre shop for alignments tho - the competence and care level will probably be a lot higher.

My car was like that, is your car very low? mine was 330mm wheel centerline to guard. I stuffed around getting adjustable arms and then just realised it sucked being that low and got it raised (springs reset, my teins arent height adjustable). After getting the alignment sorted, swaybars are next thing to get. Cheap, easy to install, no real downside, and make a big difference. i got the whiteline adjustables from SydneyKid's group buy, and tuned them to what i wanted at the track, because they're easy to adjust. Read salad's Suspension/handling Articles sticky for how to set them up. Huge difference on my car. Front strut tower braces are useful to stop flex and keep the geometry good. Rears are a waste of money as the rear suspension has a rigid subframe that the suspension arms mount onto, so cant flex appreciably.

I need to replace one of my PS hoses, and its got a short rubber section that is joined onto about a meter of tube nicely wound in and out and around the front half of the car. No joins at which it could be split. It looks impossible to get out without dropping the crossmember....anyone know how to get the bastard out?

About a year ago i priced RT615 and 595RS's and they were both in the $350-360 range for 255/40/17. The Fed RS shouldnt be anywhere near $445 - get some more quotes. Cant wait for my 595SS's to die, i'll get the 595RSs unless the RT615s are more than $20 less each, because the SSes turned out to be pretty decent tyres for the money even if they dont have that much grip. Who quoted 300 for 615s?

I think I read on this forum a while back that these are R33 synchros and the extra cost is some other R33 parts to make them fit. ???Maybe something like selector forks??? Do you have an old 33 box around you can bastardise? ^^^ this could be bollocks - hopefully someone can confirm/deny...

I had the whileline adjustable bushes and it didnt give me enough adjustment, so i went with the noltec upper arms as suggested by Heasmans. They're bushed so should last well. $524 now tho... Whether you need the extra adjustability is hard to tell until the rest of it is setup (especially ride height).

Dude, you need to respond to blind_elk first. The forum helps those who help themselves.

Just to check - have you changed the fuel filter and spark plugs? If its over-fuelling you'll have black crap on your rear bumper, and probably be able to see it in the rear view mirror. Maybe get a mate to follow you to look for black smoke. What boost are you running? If its not stock, pull it back to stock and see if the problem goes away.

1. How often should spark plugs be replaced? Different types of plugs have different replacement intervals. Common type are copper, platinum and iridium. The manual specifies platinums with a 100,000kms change interval. 2. How often should (manual) gear box oil be changed? I couldnt find the change interval. I would suggest you put some fully synthetic GL-4 in there, then never think about it again. Synthetic gear oils last about 3 times longer than mineral oils BTW. 3. How often should Diff oil be changed? Again, couldnt find an interval. Suggest change once with fully synthetic LSD friendly GL-5 80-90. <snip> 8. How often should the water pump be replaced? Some do it with the timing belt at 100,000

One other thing you might want to check is the kingpin (its the pivot that holds the top and bottom half of the stub axle together). They can get loose (mine were). Hard to tell from the workshop manual but it looks like it needs about 165 Nm on it (R32, dunno if R33 is the same), but there's no room to get a socket in there....

I think age needs to be taken into consideration. Newly rebuilt could probably run 1bar without to much issue, but turbos with over 100,000km (the maintenance interval) would be pretty risky. But you might then need to cough up for an engine rebuild as well. There have been more that a few cases of exploding turbos sending nasty bits into the engine and trashing it. No idea of how often that happens tho, so I cant judge the risk.

You can rebuild the standards with steel wheels and plain bearings for ~$1800. GCG can probably do it. For ball bearing turbos, yes. That'll cost about $2500. Either way you'll then need to pay for gaskets, and fitting if you get someone else to do it. What's the power goal? From memory of other posts the rebuilt stockers will probably go to ~270awkw, and the smaller of the 2860's around 330awkw. Spool time will be a tiny bit better on the stockers.

I got front pair $85 and rear pair $45 retail from RaceBrakes Sydney. O rings are included if you want to split the caliper. For Nissan/Sumitomo and WRX.

I'm building up a car pc - and the motherboard has optical and coax SPDIF. So do lowish end car amps come with these connectors? My other alternative is to use the 2 composite/RCA connectors, but then i wont be able to have front/back faders - is that correct?