MrStabby

Techniques for removing stuck bolts are: hitting the bolt head with a hammer, heating the bolt to red hot then letting it cool and working it back and forth like you are already doing. AFAIK the idea is to try to crush whatever material is stuck between the threads (and heat also melts locktite but that's almost certainly not relevant in this case).

252mm to the centerline of the bottom mount. BTW the front springs were originally 8kg.

A CigWeld EasyWeld 130 can be had from ebay for $360 delivered. Good for 0.6 to 6mm, which would be fine for my requirements. I guess that on top of that you would need to buy a regulator, hoses and wire. I already have gloves and an auto-darkening mask. How is the gas bottle charged? Do you rent it then pay for top ups?

I've watched some vids and the technique seems to be to butt the sheets up to one another and use MIG to spot weld and slowly fill in the spots until its eventually all sealed. No runs as you would normally do, as there's too much heat generated that way. Yeah my stick welds are terrible these days because its been so long since i've done any of it. I expect to be spending many hours practicing

Any recommendations for what would be the easiest welding type to start on, for sheet metal rust repairs and maybe some exhaust piping too? Seems like MIG is the most common. Would gasless MIG be ok to learn on and do some simple jobs? I have a stick welder which has a Lift TIG setting, but i'm more interested in getting whatever's easiest to do, and most suitable, rather than using what i have.

Agreed - looks better that way

This shows the bottom mount

Found this https://www.skylineowners.com/threads/coilover-fitting-help.143959/ Which says "there the fronts, long end goes in 1st, so nut and washer fits on short side." According to that the long, flared end goes towards the inside facing the suspension and the short side + washer goes on the outside. I installed it that way and it looks better that way as the coilover is spaced further away. There's no witness marks on the the old suspension or coilover, so it probably doesnt matter much. I'll see if i can find a photo

Replacing these and want to check the orientation for the bottom mount on the coilover as its not symmetrical. Is flared/longer section supposed to facing inside or out? The ones i'm removing have the flared side facing out where the nut is, but assuming the flared bit is there to ease fitment it looks like it should face the other way. Thanks.

Ok so the other test that seems easy enough (with the right equipment) would be to check what pressure the pump produces when its on. If its in spec its probably safe to just replace the pressure switch, and if not it makes sense to replace the whole unit. Does that sound sensible? EDIT: Do you have a spare pressure switch you want to sell?

Looks like both of my cars have pressure switch issues. The R32 GTR has 18 flashes on the ATTESSA controller which is "ETS pressure switch circuit". The 4WD light is intermittent, and often just restarting the car clears it. There is an $300 replacement option https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/285675135148?itmmeta=01HXN3YKRGKQ08GRZ5KFKKZWJT&hash=item428390a0ac:g:6CcAAOSwWxBltMEG so if it becomes a permanent issue and I can confirm that the switch is the issue, i have a solution. The NM35 is reporting C1208, and disconnecting the switch causes the 4WD light to go away. Translating from the Japanese shop manual "when the pressure is reduced to 2.6MPa (377 psi) or less: conduction occurs when the pressure increases to 3.8MPa (550 psi) or less: conduction is present. Reference: • Immediately after the E-TS actuator motor stops, the pressure inside the accumulator is high and there is no continuity." Not sure how good the translation is but from what i can deduce this means the switch is normally closed (NC) and as the pressure builds from 0 to 550 psi the switch stays closed, then opens and 550 psi. As the pressure drops from 550 psi to 377 psi the switch stays open then closes again at 377 psi. Is that how these things work? These pressures are a lot higher than the R32 ("control pressure 0-228 psi") but i'm hoping i can find a generic switch (like they've done for the R32) to use as a replacement. Maybe something like https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/355586397452?epid=1676016964&itmmeta=01HXN534AF22ACTG6TGDDQGEQ7&hash=item52ca99d50c:g:mAEAAOSw8ilmBcMh&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8LtWdNlWHgyJ%2F3cbw25S2A1lde3qBi3fJii4T3lQavCz4kpqiD42SmBa4FocMvXCjcxiowHjb8vZ8%2BWxc53BkHv781tkStSnCDaenfGKC3bIp0keK20dfsn9LoPa3TfqaEmAydqqyKobgTdXsGGzsl%2BRjOVGuD8OIpOv%2B0wMl7aUtHg0iJtojbtzA%2BRS8Xfm8Ufjuvz4niwrqglAXFUbkL6J%2FGuHPeeECZhLBBN3iNM1Swl94Fv5zE95YK%2B5O6dxDN1ySNOjdMxkA8yaprbuwRHFQv1nlGh%2FWjekj6EUFR2%2FO4HTsoKtSAkY0Mj1w1uf1w%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6zFjKXtYw but with a lower close pressure, and thread adapter if required. Am i dreaming?

I tried to translate using the google service and it translated the text in the .pdf which helped, but to be fully useful I need to find a service that will also OCR the text in the diagrams and translate that too. Looked like there might be some commercial options that will do that but haven't had time to chase those down.

IIRC (was a long time ago) - Yes the codes are different for each side, the parts are also different so you cant swap them. - from https://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/electrical-ignition-fuel-c-21_69_809_810.html i got "1 x Cam Angle Sensor, Left Hand Bank to suit Nissan 350Z Z33 Series 1, Skyline V35 250GT / 300GT / 350GT & Stagea M35 250T / AR-X FOUR" and that's the easy side. Cant remember which code it was, but if you search here you may find it.

The plug and overall shape is like this, so pretty sure it will be pressure. I might take it out at the next oil change and see if I can find something that matches at repco etc. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/384995355321?epid=1919729804&hash=item59a382eab9:g:ps8AAOSw4WJiyCay&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8F9Oaku3Ppp%2FmeW7%2FHJPDA7F%2Fw363L0NsyW8o1qmsW62mO65N3ROKfKT4qfDecMf7jHHyzSx0ni5Bpq%2BjP7wraJk5LQ3uM39RlLe2b%2B1kxkiF2DdXBi9%2B1kkmzOz53ISseKFnfmQSZKeLOY8W4Jl%2FYqZ%2BcT4OWDPjAoinGnbdTGPjqOnk%2FTiHnUtjX5Wi%2BdIC6bayrcxIKKFqC0uj8ytQms%2BPXMPXyyEXvgs1fQUWkTnpWsh7QcUExekPpaO475unS6DagagsuhpSjsiNJLpuSqEcfEPUjWZcJEHFPkAcEF6wSLJuiDvpCA%2Fza7udSjh4w%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMjomBuNFh

Was under the stag and noticed a sensor had snapped off. Checking FAST it shows the oil temp sensor (2pin, 22630D below) but does not show this other broken sensor (1pin). On the vehicle the sensor is pretty close the temp sensor, just further away from the bracket mounting face. So, given there's no CEL and AFAIK no easy way to find the part number, is it safe to ignore? (what would be be? pressure?)

Cant remember the brand (could be mongoose) but it was installed in 2008. Where was the unit? Was it a removable relay?

Ok, the switch connectivity matches your information. Re-checked the fuses and all good. Perhaps the immobilizer has died? The alarm beeps on and off and opens/closes the door locks, so its working to that extent. Will checking the immobilizer involve finding where its wired into the IGN circuit (assuming that's the case) and verifying it closes the circuit when its disabled or is there more to it than that?

I've taken the two green relays behind the ECU out, applied 12V across the signal side and the output switch closed, so they're ok. I assume one is ECCS and the other is IGN Coil from the wiring diagram. Tested the windows in IGN/ON and they dont work, so i guess that means its likely the ignition switch, right?

Appears to be power to ECU. Also, if the clock and stereo come on, doesnt that rule out ignition switch? Another symptom is cant make a CONSULT connection in Nistune (albeit using untested setup)

After being stopped for 5 mins, tried to restart but not a cough. Turns over quickly, but there's no dash lights and no power to the fuel pump relay (FPCM has been deleted ages ago). Clock and stereo has power (on IGN). Couldnt find any dead fuses. My first guess is that its ECU related (does that match the symptoms?) its a stock ECU fitted with Nistune. Checked the internal LED but it does not light - is that LED only for diagnostic codes or should i expect it to light on IGN on? What should i check next?

My cooling issues were blocked radiator and weak fan clutch, not bleeding issues. I replaced the radiator with a Fenix ($400), which is higher capacity/wider than the stocker (~$800). Here's how to fix the fan clutch; Re: air block/heater bypass hose, don't know what that is, but if its bled it should be fine. Just follow the bleeding guide.

I'm thinking these might be close enough for the intercooler to manifold bits - can anyone confirm? https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/pat-45-elbow-2.5-63mm-black/SPO3386267.html 45 ELBOW 2.5'' (63MM) BLACK Wall 5mm PLY Layers 4 Length 125 × 125mm And https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/pat-double-hump-hose-3-76mm-black/SPO3386182.html DOUBLE HUMP HOSE 3'' (76MM) BLACK Wall 5mm PLY Layers 4 Length 102mm

Is there any procedure to get flashing LEDs or is it OBD only? Anyone know of any IOS OBD apps that can read them? I have hobdrive which works for the engine stuff.

The 4WD light is on and there is a slight shudder at start (from stopped), and shuddering at parking/large steering angles. So far i've; - checked the fluid level - bleed it - verified that front wheels are driven by putting the car up on stands What else can i do?

FYI connecting Earth, IGN and BAT to the factory head unit is enough to get the climate controls working.