MrStabby

Front guards wider because wheels that steer require more space?

If there's oil on the outside, then yes it sounds like a leak, but if were leaking you'd be loosing boost too, so be down on power and running very rich when the turbo is flowing. If you're sure the pipe there is ok, i'd be replacing the clamp with a better one. The ones which have the slots cut in the strap for the thread to engage in are often pretty crappy, and sometimes only made for single use.

I've been pulling off the bottom rad hose, and opening the bleeder on the top of the motor, and leaving to drain for an hour or so. Should I pull off the drop radiator hose and run the garden hose through it too?

I think the heater core control is stuffed - i can't get hot air, so no. But yeah i guess I should give that another go. I have been bringing to car up to temp (according to the coolant sensor) but not running it long enough for oil temp to get to its normal level.

Since i installed a new radiator in the GTR i've been flushing the system with water as i'm changing coolant type. The green colour of the old coolant has gone, but the water comes out slightly dirty and with a very fine powder that settles out of the old coolant. The powder is too fine to feel. Should I persist with more flushes or is there something fundamental wrong?

Just fitted a rat32r kit with an alternator he supplied. Very nice kit and straight forward instalation. Idle voltage has gone from 14.2v to 14.45v. The Attessa light is staying off now, so the only remaining issue is the ABS.

vlink arrived, and its works well with HobDrive! Now, why am i getting P0171 System too lean (Bank 1)....

Ok will check for that. FYI for the thread - From: http://www.ipswichradiators.com.au/images/documents/FS119_-_Stray_current_corrosion_in_cooling_systems.pdf 1. Remove the radiator cap and run the engine to operation temperature. Do not rev the engine as this may cause the coolant to aerate. 2. Switch ON all electrical items including items. 3. Switch a multimeter to a scale of 5 volts DC or less. Ideally the meter should be capable of reading milli-volts. A digital multimeter may not be suitable for this test. 4. Place the negative lead of the multimeter on the battery negative post. 5. Dip the positive lead into the coolant without touching the filler neck or the core of the radiator. 6. A reading of more than .05 volts indicates the presence of potentially damaging stray current passing through the coolant. Ideally the voltage should be 0 volts, however it is highly possible that some voltage level will be detected. 7. If no voltage or a very low voltage is detected, carry out the same test as in point 4, but with the ignition OFF. 8. If voltage is detected, isolate the circuit by turning all electrical items OFF and switching each circuit ON individually.

Ok thanks for the info. I happen to have a spare Tridon CB16110 here, so i'll use that instead of the Nismo that's on the CoolingPro. The Nismo is 18psi, whereas the Tridon is 16 psi (110kpa) as you probably know. EDIT: Forgot to mention that PWR said i should use a 16PSI cap.

PWR reckoned the 42 will work, so its been ordered.

That's going to make me want to replace the pop up LCD screen in the center console with a smalll tablet....

Great - i've ordered that one.

I tried Hob Drive with a cheapo bluetooth but it didnt work. Which one did you get? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Vgate-BT-WIFI-Quick-Start-OBD2-Code-Reader-Car-Diagnostic-Tool-for-IOS-Android-U/142702777948?hash=item2139bf965c:m:mIkFRh0Fhxkby_2deLT0auA or https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2017-Vgate-iCar3-OBD2-OBD-ELM327-WIFI-Car-Diagnostic-Scan-Tool-Android-iPhone/192261956559?epid=1550784046&hash=item2cc3b4a3cf:g:nLwAAOSw8FRZrKjQ

Thread resurrection - has anyone found a cheap alternative in all the current options? Perhaps this at moderate cost ($175)? Mentions JOBD, KWP2000, and "Vehicle coverage for Nissan ( 1996 to 2014 )" with Stagea in the list http://www.icarsoft.com/web/icarsoftus/allproducts/nissanscantools/2012/201212/20121229121950h6emf_1.html Would prefer to find a IOS/Android app tho.

Jesus, completely forgot about that post....senility is hitting hard. IIRC that was before i got the CoolingPro cleaned. Anyways, pretty sure i'll go the PWR now.

Ok cool. I can see the 55 would be a massive PITA. FWIW, I measured up the NM35 fan+clutch when i had it out and it looks like it would bolt on and be 15mm shorter, but the back of fan may then touch balancer pulley, and there's so much other stuff that would still be a problem. Will email PWR to see if they'll offer an opinion on whether it should be ok, but will almost certainly go with the 42mm PWR. Thanks!

Johnny how thick is your PWR? 42mm? 55mm? Two options listed for R32 Part No: PWR0546 – Skyline 32GTR and GtST 55m (needs thermo) 55mm ([email protected]) Part No: PWR0943 – Skyline 32GTR and GTST 42mm ([email protected])

Yep, the cleaning helped, and the Natrad guy said it came up good after it was done. He also said the Cooling Pro was actually decent, unlike most of the yum cha chinese stuff he sees. Temps are fine for non-track usage. Water pump has maybe 20,000kms on it, thermostat has been replaced, fan clutch has strong resistance to being stopped, coolant replaced, properly bled.

I have an 8yo Cooling Pro 40mm triple core from Justjap, which has been recently cleaned by Natrad, but the car quickly overheated on a 23 degree track day. I was going to get a Racepace triple core, but they have stopped doing them as they cant find a decent core supplier. What can i upgrade to that will do the job?

If your M35 is overheating, check that the fan clutch is still supplying enough drive to move a decent amount of air. Fortunately, the fan clutch on the M35 is bolted together, which means it can be refilled. It will spin quite fast even it if it is completely stuffed. Search youtube for videos on how to check it (eg 1. Drive the car until everything is fully up to temperature. This will take a lot longer than to bring the temperature gauge up to its normal position. 2. Use an old magazine (or whatever) to slowly press against the spinning fan blades to slow them down. The fan will have a fair bit of momentum, even if the clutch is stuffed. I could hold the fan still with barely any pressure using my pinkie finger after it had slowed down. Again - watch some videos first. If you confirm that the clutch is stuffed, you will need fluid to re-fill it. Many use Toyota fluid, example part numbers are 08816-03001 or 08816-06001 or 08816-10001, which are 3000, 6000 and 10000 CST respectively. Higher CST is thicker/more viscous. The Toyota fluid is about $17 for 12ml on ebay. The fluid is reported to be silicon oil, which cost me $20 for 50ml from a hobby store. You need about 80ml. I originally used 10000 cst from both Toyota and hobby store and they appeared the same. I don't know what viscosity is correct, but the car sounds like an old skool v8 with fan noise now, so its either correct or too viscous (or i added too much fluid). EDIT: 10000 is definitely too thick - I have swapped it for 6000 which is better, but i'm still getting some belt squeal at high RPM, so either i have a belt/tension issue or its still too thick. Suggest 3000 as a starting point for anyone trying this. Steps are; 1. Remove the air box snorkel, and air box. 2. Undo the 4 x 10mm headed nuts from the fan mount, and the 2 bolts holding the top of the fan shroud on, and lift them out together. This will require a bit of wriggling 3. Spray the bolts, screws and pin in the middle of the bi-metallic strip of the fan assembly with WD40, and leave to soak. 4. Take the fan off the fan clutch (10mm headed bolts) 5. Undo the phillips head screws holding the two halves of the clutch together, and pry them apart. 6. Leave the two halves upside down to drain the old fluid overnight, or clean them out with solvent. When i drained out the new 10000cst it didn't come out clean, so i'd recommend cleaning it out now, even though i didnt. AFAIK, WD40, Kerosine, Degreaser etc leave a greasy residue and will contaminate the new fluid, so brake cleaner is probably a better option. 7. Use needle nose pliers to verify that the pin at the center of the bi-metallic strip on the outside of clutch can turn a little / is not seized. 8. Fill the reservoir up with new fluid. I filled to the top of the first step, so about the level of the black rectangle in the centre. 9. Bolt the two halves together and re-attach the fan 10. Re-install the fan and shroud, being careful to get the tabs at the bottom of the shroud keyed in before you bolt the top on. 11. Beers

Ok, so the hydraulic clutch on the main fan was completely stuffed. When moving it has a lot of momentum, but once i slowed it down (youtube search "how to test a viscous fan clutch"), I could hold it still with my pinkie finger. Have refilled it and the air it moves sounds like an old v8!

334kw in 2WD mode on -7s Nistune (tuned by Unigroup) Xforce split dumps Aftermarket front pipe (56mm(2.25“) ID primaries/76mm(3”) sec), 3.5in matrix 100 cell cat, 3.5 in Trust Cat back Blitz SSBC boost controller Xspurt 1000cc injectors LS2 (D514a) coilpacks Trust Intercooler, about the same size as stock Sard 280l/hr high volume fuel pump with direct earth Mobil M1 0W-40