MrStabby

I have two. 1. VJ K12 (police spec) Charger. It had a 265 and I threw out the 727 torqueflite and installed a 4 speed. No hydraulics on the clutch, just rods and levers.... It had a lot of rust... 2. UC Torana Hatch. If i had it now I would swap the 202 for an RB26. IIRC it only weighed 1100kgs.

Ok, I wasnt in "expert" mode so the throttle enrichment tables were hidden. The Xspurts are Bosch, and they're supposed to still work well at low pulsewidths. I'll try dropping the latency and putting on more throttle enrichment as a first stop. Then later look at Feature pack if its still not right.

Thanks man. I dont have either Feature pack, but I also notice in V2 the "Injection Latency table" sounds interesting, as; "With the larger injector sizes offered by companies like Bosch (Injector Dynamics) and sometimes to resolve issues with other injector brands, the custom adjustment of latency is required at various voltage levels." I'll have a look for Alpha-N - sounds like it should help. The idle fuel cells are already at 0 (is that weird?), and IIRC I dont need to turn off o2 correction as its not used in the bottom left hand quarter of the map, right? (eg the filtered /unfiltered difference)

Idle AFR and throttle enrichment on rb26 Setup: Nistuned R32 GTR, stock cams, 1000cc xspurt, Nismo MAFs. My idle is 12:1 hot (injector latency is set higher than spec), but i also have some leaning out just as the throttle is first opened. I was hoping to be able to reduce the latency to lean up idle, and fix the throttle leaning out by tweaking the throttle enrichment. However, I cant see any throttle enrichment tables in Nistune, and the Nistune doc says they are "Only available for some (RB series) vehicles". So, it it normal not to have throttle enrichment tables on early R32 GTR ECUs? And if it is normal, is there any point in trying to bring the idle closer to 14.7 and then using the fuel map to try to offset the leaning out?

ATTKD, D2, G4 etc are said to all come from the same factory, Many of us run them and they work well. Being two piece rotors you just need to replace the rings, and JustJap sell them. The pads are the same size as some AP calipers, so there's a big pad selection. 6 vs 8 pot is not going to make a noticeable difference. Try searching on those other two brand names and you'll find plenty of info.

AFAIK you always use the resistor pack with low impedance injectors, and you never use it with high impedance. If you were to check the DC resistance of a high impedance injector, it would be about the same as a low impedance injector in series with the resistor, and that means they will pull about the same current.

<$1000

Tried the $40 renewal just now, got; Something went wrong. Please try again. Error code: EX0

Cool thats exactly what i need. Supercheap has them as "Toledo Fuel / Vacuum Line Pliers - 301173" for $24.

Ok, wasnt as bad as i remember. Maybe getting rid of the HICAS piping meant i could get my hands under the plenum easier this time

Hose is newish, and cost is trivial, but if i replace it i'll still have to pull the cut end off the barbed hard pipe...

Tricks for getting fuel hose off filter? This always seems unusually hard, since simply pulling the host seems to make it lock harder against the barbs - any shortcuts?

Yeah i'd like to know the price too, maybe just post it in the thread so you dont have to PM us all?

I'd say the commonsense will be to defensively support her career in a highly politicized organisation, which wont be commonsense from a road safety perspective...

My renewal came through, and Famous have offered me $25K value, up from $14.5K at the last renewal. However, they said they may be able to go higher with a comparative quote. Yearly cost is $1150. So, clearly i should talk to SGIC/NRMA... For the following mods on a fair condition car, what value should i ask for? (or will they determine it?) R34 GTR Wheels Tein NA suspension Nismo front suspension arm kits (54501-RS585-R & 54502-RS585-R) Whiteline front and rear anti-roll bars D2 356mm brakes Aftermarket exhaust Nistune R34 GTR front seats

Ok, had the 0.9 cap on in 27 degrees with air con and it lost coolant. Now trying a Tridon CB18125 from Supercheap. Looks like the 18125 means 18psi/125kpa. There was also a CB16110. So tar the caps i've seen have pressure stamped on as either the bar number or psi/kpa numbers. So cap options are; 0.9bar / 13psi / 90kpa 1.1bar / 16psi / 110kpa 1.3bar /18psi / 125kpa

Update for Darkmeat; swapped the caps between the R32 and Stag. No apparent issues with the Nismo cap on the stag, but it hasnt been hot enough for a proper test. The new 0.9 cap from the stag leaked on the R32, so either its defective as Duncan suspected, or Stags need a greater than 0.9 cap. Seems like the standard pressure ratings are 0.9/1.1/1.3 and IIRC the Nismo is 1.3. I'll try a 1.1 on the Stag next and put the Nismo back on the 32.

Are you happy with how the terminals sit? I'm just using the springs from the factory coils with a bit of stretching and reshaping, but haven't had a chance to do full boost testing to verify it under stress.

I bought a second hand Tien kit from someone i trust, then got longer, softer springs for the front to tweak my setup. I'm happy with it, but if I were to do it again would probably go MCA, even though there spring rate selection is unconventional.

I hear Samco silicon hoses are good, otherwise OEM. Been burnt by radiator hose that leaked and fell apart.

You might be in for more self inflicted pain than necessary if you don't stay flexible. Keep a plan B of changing the rims rather than dogmatically sticking to using them, if, after all, new rims are a better solution. With stuff like this I put value on my time when weighing up the options, because there's plenty of other stuff i can do to improve the car and if I spend a bunch of time on one thing those other things don't get done.

Ah ok RBN1, sounds like you got rebuild and mod, since its already open. Previous owner had the transfer case rebuilt in mine so different starting point.

I just set it to whatever feels right and its not a problem. Are you thinking that the transfer case mod will provide a better outcome? If so, how do you figure?

I'd describe my $60 ebay attessa tweaker the same way...

Check out this thread. You'll just run the 6 trigger signals from the ECU directly to the coils. The 32/33 GTR setup is external ignitor and that's what I did for the LS2 coils I used. https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440409-ls2-coil-on-plug-mod/