MrStabby

Nice write up. Agree that getting the housing on cleanly is a bitch. By the look of your photos i'd say the RB26 is even worse. The idea of using headless bolts as locators is a good one. If I ever have to do this again i might just replace the bolts with studs.

Nulon synthetic (compatible with nissan C/D/J/K, ~$16.60perL) or Valvoline synthetic (compatible with nissan D/J/K, ~$10perL) If the ATF stinks then its in very bad condition. Some suggest when its like that its dangerous to change it all at once. So you could dump whatevers in the sump (on the M35 this is about 4 of the 10 liters) then drive around for a few thousand kms then that over a few more times. EDIT: Transmax Z is usually more expensive and has less Nissan certs.

You can use aerostart/start ya bastard type stuff to help find leaks - but its flammable so be careful around a hot motor. The engine should flare when you spray it near the leak.

I've used ALS Oilcheck or whatever they're called now. You can probably find my thread in the Wagoneers (nee Stagea) section. UOA tells you more about how the oil is performing than the condition of the engine. Compression and leakdown tests are what you want for engine condition. Then use the UOA to determine if the oil is protecting the motor ok for the change interval. You can tweak the change interval to suit the oil you use so you dont change it too early or late.

I remember my disappointment going from Fed RSRs to R888s. Was a fair time between track days, but I couldnt really tell much difference. Where do the Kumho V70s fit in that list?

It looks like i have a power steering leak out the drivers side tie rod boot. The outer end of the boot is not fixed on the tie rod - looks like there's some damage to the boot and whatever was holding it on the tie rod is gone. The passenger side tie rod boot is intact but might be leaking a bit too. I assume the rack needs to come out and be re-co'd, but i'm looking through the service manual to confirm. In the troubleshooting flowchart on page CH-102, the passenger side boot is labelled 1 and the drivers side boot is labelled 6. If i follow the flowchart through; Determine oil leak location -> Part 1 (boots) -> Check boot for bulging -> No bulging -> Check boot for slipping or cuts -> Boots are cut (there is an air leak inside) -> Check for leaks in parts 1 and 6 -> there is an oil leak -> 1 Dafuq? That just said there's an oil leak in 1 so there's an oil leak in 1.... Anyway what the relevance of bulging boots? What does it mean if "boots make slipping, crunching sound" (from another branch of the flowchart).

Agree that testing with the same car and driver is the best evidence. Not sure why you think his cold pressure is a big deal, just play with it and see what works. Will be different on different cars anyway.

Red stuff are probably fine, they're just not suited to your use case. Yellows are the next step up for EBC, but to me they seem about the same as the crossover QFM A1RMs, so still not a track pad. Last time i checked the yellows were AU$308, A1RMs were AU$180, so EBC are poor value.

Pretty sure track guys run stock rears with ~350mm fronts, so don't upgrade the rears until you're running something seriously big up front. If they're not pretty enough paint the callipers...With grippy tyres the rear gets unloaded more than with street tyres. Failure modes are: pads overheat or fluid boils. Can you describe in more detail what you mean by "soften up". EBC reds are a crossover pad, so almost certainly wont cut it at the track. What's the boiling point of the brake fluid? Dot 4 spec is only 230 degrees. Nulon xtreme will do 280, then Motuls to 320+. Did you do a full flush or just a bleed? tl:dr pads are too conservative, if the fluid is anything less than 280 then swap it for nulon xtreme (since its cheap) and go from there.

Dont mix up Celsius and Fahrenheit... Off the top of my head its 280 (nulon) vs 315 (rbf600)

Yeah, Terry from Award Diff and Gearbox says solid center clutches should be avoided at all costs.

IMO A1RMs are crossover pads. Like DS2500 or EBC Golds. What's required in each circumstance will depend mostly on the cars weight, power, brake characteristics and how hard the driver is pushing. Any pad suggestion that isn't based on those four inputs is unreliable.

If it were me i would; 1. Remove rocker covers and clean all paint off the inside and cap area (ie keep all the areas clean that the factory left clean). Remove any flakes from the top of the motor. 2. Drop oil and filter. Cut filter open and inspect for flakes 3. Refill with cheap oil 4. Drive for 50 kms 5. Drop oil and filter 6. Refill with good oil 7. Keep an eye on the oil pressure gauge with a high degree of paranoia (worried about paint flakes on oil pick up). 8. Cross fingers Might be too paranoid..... a photo would be good.

See what the diff in rolling diameter is, because; From vsi-09-rev4.pdf (NSW); "The outside diameter of the wheel and tyre combination must be no more than 15mm over the largest diameter wheel and tyre combination specified for the vehicle and not more than 15mm below the smallest diameter wheel and tyre combination specified for the vehicle" If you dont know the maths, google an online calculator.

So you mean the D585s right? That's some whacky shit. Maybe another reason to stick with the lower power D514a's (assuming the don't do the same thing). Did you notice any weirdness under 4ms? Maybe this is just the known "D585s go nuts over 4ms dwell" thing.

8200kms and looking good. As usual the oil is Mobil 1 0W-40. Since TBN (indicator of additive level) is still very high, and viscosity is good, ill run the next change out to 10k. Oxidation number is high, but AFAICT its not relied on much as the test can falsely read high. Since everything else looks good, especially TBN (which at 2 is still considered ok) it makes sense to extend the OCI. @wht510 IIRC its about $40 each for the ones i got (there are options, and the website is shitty http://www.alsglobal.com/en/Our-Services/Industrial/Tribology/Capabilities/Oil-Analysis.aspx EDIT: Overheating mentioned in June 15 post was due to a badly clogged up radiator.

How would they slow spool? I thought the argument against these dumps was boost creep. FWIW, i have the xforce knock offs and have neither issue.

I had my Cooling Pro cleaned a few months back for $150. Justjap were out of stock at the time, and the radiator dude said that unlike most of the chinese crap he sees the Cooling Pro was decent. Price on the R32 one is now only $239 - was ~$320 when i bought mine. So yeah, agree you should get a new one.

Thanks for the list Troz - certainly non-intuitive for me that it could be useful in cancer treatment!

So you're getting 10psi at 3800. Should be more like 14 at 3800. What did the tuner say? I'd be looking at exhaust restriction or boost control setup. Eg. did they wind some preload into the actuators? I dont think "full boost" is a useful term, better off saying X psi IMO.

Interesting. So many years of studying the brain with so little useful outcome - so they look outside the brain. Other studies are suggesting that the microbiome/digestive track is important (~90% of serotonin in produced in the gut, but is that reflected in brain serotonin levels?), and also there's studies showing its correlated with inflammatory response. Of course, correlation is not causation. Interesting times ahead, maybe oxidative stress/microbiome/inflammatory response are all related? I've changed my diet a bit to one that's better for the microbiome and less inflammatory in case any of this turns out to be true. Its all healthier food anyway.