MrStabby

It doesnt make sense that it only does it when you're driving. Follow Dark26's excellent advice, just make sure you press the pedal as hard as you would when driving. Also don't discount that it could even be the new lines.

You've probably worked it out small screw at the door handle side on the inside - remove with a phillips head Ok both sides are missing the screws. I can see a ~5mm hole in the trim - are the screws really short and stubby and screw directly into the trim metal? I'll see if i can find them in FAST. use a long screwdriver under the trim and lift it up - will save it from flexing the trim or bending it there are metal clips that hold it down but they will open and allow the trim to come up the 4 white things you can see hold the felt bushes against the window, not part of the securing of the trim Mine has 2 black felt bits for that. Looks like my clips for holding it down are plastic. While its out clean the felt bushes as this is what causes the glass scratching up and yes for install just slide it under at small angle and push the trim back into place do the small screw up. Thanks.

Since getting the box out and in is a big PITA, as is being stranded, I would definitely go for the Nismo pivot. Box is a bitch to get back in, you need to rotate it (IIRC to get the starter motor lump out of the way) then rotate it back so you cant bolt it up. Maybe i put something about that in my DIY...cant remember.

You mean my HSK balancer (check the picture closely).

The trims at the top of the door that touch the glass. Any tips for removal? Looks like there's four white plastic clips that hold them on, but i've slightly bent it trying to get it off. For installation, do i just push it down then push it forward to slide it under the rear vision mirror assembly? Seems like both of mine were a bit loose at the trailing edge of the door, so im wondering if i'm missing a clip...

Ghetto? Sandpaper taped to glass. Did a Holden 202 oil pump housing that way when i was a povo student. Actually worked well.

If NSW, something <15mm difference in diameter from the stock R32 tyres, which are 225/50/16 = 631.4mm diam. 245/35/18 and 255/35/18 look ok, but the standard R34 tyre size (245/40/18) is too big - its 20.9mm different at 653.2mm diam.

The 265/35/18 Dunlop 03Gs im running are rated by the manufacturer as fine for 10.5s (but that is the limit). I checked a few others and they were also ok, but OP will need to do his own checks since he's running 19s. Agree with comment about getting the right wheel tho - my rims are +25 and rub on the outside of the guard liners near the guard lip at the track. Yeah its a 32, but does a 33 have 28mm more space?

I asked for an exhaust shop recommendation in the NSW forum - if you search you should find it.

My guess is its just some water splashed up on the inside then dried off. The paint stripes (there's three IIRC) are temperature indicators. Google for details on that. If there's no issues with brake operation and feel, I would ignore.

Looks like "N1" is just the company's name.

No problems.

Got some in Marrickville if you cant find anything closer.

He doesn't have insurance?

So the mechanic owes you a new crank then right? That's a noob error.

Is there enough room to make one of these fit? Since its so short and twisted i'm not sure it would.

Urggh Ziex are legendary for being crap. Change them out straight away, esp on the family car. If the 225s are an acceptable profile, they may well be fine. Plug the details into the one of those online tyre calcs and see. IIRC +/- 4% in rolling diameter is legal (but check that I remember that correctly).

Remember that ABS and traction control only work on the force that's in the direction of rotation of the tyre. The sideways forces produced by cornering are at 90 degrees to the direction of rotation. So, say you enter a corner with no brakes and no accelerator, then ABS and traction control are useless, and yet its easy to imagine how you could get a sideways slip going on a wet road even though you're not braking or accelerating.

Pad manufacturers usually publish the co-efficient of friction specs for their pads. so just compare those for street pads at street temps, and go with something with the higher number. Or just buy any street pads, they will all have better cold bite than the track pads you have. Give it a good bleed when you change them.

My 2c For normal linear springs, force = spring rate x displacement (that is, the amount of stretch), Now since you effectively have two springs operating in parallel in the external spring setup, the force will be the sum of both of the spring rate x displacement calculations. This will typically be non-linear, but non-linearity could be beneficial in some cases. The choice of preload and rate on the external spring can be used to tune the system's response. Since you've changed a fundamental (lower back pressure) you also need to change the actuator setup. In this case it sounds like you need less force, so you would use a lower rate spring and/or less preload. On any turbo setup whenever a fundamental property of the system is changed (eg back pressure, gate size etc) you should start from the assumption that an actuator tweak is going to be required, external spring or not, then only leave the actuator setup as is if its shown to still work with the new setup.

The consumer law is strong - push hard and use it. Expect to be bullshitted and pushed back against. Get all your monies back. Boycott Goodyear when buying tyres. Get on with your life.

Does this equate to more grip when turning in, or is it a steering feel thing? Ie will you go faster than with zero toe?

Response from Toyo - no clear answer to this, which is good in a way - I don't feel like an idiot anymore. "Hi Adam, What sort of failure? It sounds like the failure was casing disintegration? 22psi cold is good, 30hot hot is spot on Assuming you checked the pressures that day and the failure was casing disintegration, the only logical cause is a puncture. Regards, Steven Burke Tyre Technical Manager | Toyo Tyre & Rubber Australia Limited"

Well there you go - thanks V28. And i was thinking that 30-32 hot was what i should be aiming for. I think i'm going to have to get something to check hot temperature across the tread and work it out for myself.