MrStabby

They're street tyres in the pics, so 4 deg is definitely too much. Surely he needs to be < 2?

Hmm I could tell when they were out, one set (cant remember if inners or outers now) were stuffed, other set was probably still ok, but I wanted it to be perfect, and didnt want to have to try to get the old ones out after breaking my remover tool. I was installing the Nismo arm kit at the same time so didnt need to get them out since i wasnt using the original lower arms anymore. Sloppy ball joints probably wont do that much for the camber anyway, so you may as well focus on the upper arm first if cash is really tight.

FYI there's an inner and outer ball joint. I did mine a while back, got them from Kudos for $88 each (inner and outer are same price).

FWIW i emailled [email protected] the question "Can you tell me how much stiffer this bar is, when using the hard setting, over standard?" (subject of email was BNR26XZ stiffness spec over standard). The response was: "This bar is much bigger than OE and as a result, you will see an increase of approx. 230-250% in rate."

If you always vote for the same party you're probably letting your self-identity determine your beliefs, rather than evidence. That said, just vote for some pack of dream boats.

Upper control arm bushes at the top and ball joints at the bottom. If its lowered then that adds neg camber. Conventional wisdom is that 350mm top of guard to wheel centerline is as low as you can go at the front and still have the suspension work properly. Rear is 340mm minimum. If its lower than that, raise it up to that at least first. However, at that height you will still need either two sets of adjustable bushes each side, or adjustable arms to get enough adjustability to get the camber right. EDIT: Whiteline do adjustable bushes for the upper arm. IIRC inner and outer bushes are the same, so if you only lower a little one set may do, but if you're at 350 you need two sets.

If you're staying with stock power, and driving it normally, that clutch is fine. If you're going for more power or will be launching/clutch dumping it, it will be inadequate.

+1 Pretty sure everyone ends up doing that. djr - So you're saying the cusco is stiffer than the rear whiteline adjustable on full stiff, right?

Just some old Tein NAs. Originally the front was 8kgs (and was the Oran Park setup for a track car), but i wanted less oversteer, hence the swap to the softer fronts.

IIRC Nismo did some equal rate front and rear spring setups for R32 GTRs to try to reduce understeer, but 30mm rear bar...wow. I'm running 7kg front, 6kg rear with whiteline adjustable ARBs set to soft front, hard rear. Still has understeer, but i quite like the setup now.

Dont speak to whoever said that again Solid center clutches are tough on gearboxes, and i guess generally twin plates would more often be solid center than singles BCOZ RACE. The Nismo twin is not solid center....

I've bought a DIY kit from http://www.glasspolish.com.au but havent got around to trying it yet. The window guides in both doors have scratched the glass on the GTR

Have you read this http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440409-ls2-coil-on-plug-mod/

AFAIK the NPC 250mm organic is only good for 300kw. Its suited to driving in traffic, not for getting smashed doing drag launches. Exedy HD are similar style of clutch. The coppermix single in that link looks to be a similar thing to the NPC organic. What is the car used for? Did you tell NPC what you'd be using the car for?

tric - any oiling mods in your gearboxes? I hear that Award Diff and Gearbox here in Sydney do *something*. Might also be worth trying something like Liqui Moly Mos2 gear oil additive as a hack as it should help if there's any starvation causing the gears to fall out of sliding hydrodynamic into boundary lubrication. Edit: are your failures as you just start to gun it in the gear, or after you've been gunning it in the gear for a while?

Ask on http://forum.nistune.com/ They'd have to both be type 4 boards, so a neo engined (S2?) stag.... IIRC you can load some auto ECU images onto some previously manual ECUs, but get specifics from the Nistune forum. They'll probably want the part number from the ECU.

100% right. DoseV, since you dont know what oil is in there now, contact the shop that did the service to find out what they use. If that doesn't work just get an average price dino first while you're trialling viscosities to see what works. Maybe assume they used a ?w-40 and try a ?w-50 first. Once you've settled on a viscosity that works, step up to a good full synth and go the full 5000kms change interval.

10psi/1000 is quoted a lot, but i don't know where it came from so i just checked the RB26 manual, it says; Idle: 21psi 2000rpm: 43psi 6000rpm: 65psi all for oil at 80 degrees C Might well be different for the RB25 tho given lifters, VCT etc.

IF the lifter problem is due to gunk (no idea if that's a thing), then that's an indicator you need a better oil, or you need to perform more frequent oil changes. IMO you should reconsider going to a synthetic, as they perform much better at higher temps and tubos = high temps. Also, since synthetics are considered a premium product they have better additive packs. Of course, you dont want to shell out for a synthetic while you trying different viscosities where you will probably dump the oil early. I would choose a viscosity based on the lower of; 1. the 10psi/1000rpm hot guideline 2. what keeps your lifters quiet Once you've settled on viscosity, change over to a nice full synth of the same hot viscosity (the higher number). Note that the Xw-Y notation describes ranges - 40 weight spec is 12.5-16.3, and 50 weight spec is 16.3-21.9 so the heaviest 40 and the lightest 50 are the same viscosity at 100 deg C. Quality oils used at sensible change intervals will slowly clean the inside of your motor (and lifters) so you may find that #2 above comes down as the lifters clean up.

Godfathers of thrash. Such a shame they got this vocalist back instead of keeping Rob Dukes.

That M1 is 17.5 at 100DegC and the Penrite is 19.6 at 100DegC, so yeah the Mobil is a bit thinner. Pretty unlikely you'll feel it with the butt dyno, but if the oils are around the same price, sure, give it a go. If the engine still runs well, has good oil pressure and doesn't consume oil i'd try a 40 and see how it goes. Keep an eye on the dipstick to see if it starts using. Often the first fill after you change oils is not a good indicator and you should try at least two fills to see how it settles down. FWIW I run Mobil 1 0W-40 in my cars, but might switch to Nulon to support the local product. Nulon 10W-40 is one of the thicker 40s, so you could try that.

I said something like that earlier in this thread and IIRC an mx5 guy said they were shit on his car too... So i guess they're just shit. Cheap tho.

For a street car just get a good 100cell cat. You should at least make some effort to keep your car legal and not pollute the environment way more than you have to. Decat will mean you have much blacker exhaust smoke under power (which is a give away to the cops) and your rear bar will be dirty from it.

They're probably quoting based on Nissan parts bought from a local Nissan dealer. I wouldnt go buying any coilpacks until you have confirmation from someone who knows. that; - there really is a coilpack problem - that the issue cant be addressed by a clean up and new set of plugs (there are some DIYs and a good video on here - so search for those) EDIT; Doh - what jiffo said