MrStabby

Solid center clutches are much more prone to damaging gearboxes. The Nismo has a sprung center, so TCO may be cheaper once you consider the gearbox repair costs... Are the Jim Berrys solid or sprung center?

Since its the VQ motor, you could try the Stagea or V series skyline sub-forums if you get nothing here.

The latency setting for your injectors will be wrong. Google to see what it should be. If you cant find it try reducing it in say 100ms increments until you get the idle in the ballpark then make smaller changes up/down to zero in. You should see a lot of change in mixture at idle and a much smaller change in mixture, possibly too small to read, at WOT. Also, i'd be a bit concerned about the abilities of a tuner who didn't want to use Nistune.

I got shocks through rhdjapan; Front right kyb NSF9420R Front left kyb NSF9420L If the springs have sagged maybe you could get them reset? EDIT: just checked their site and they dont have them. Maybe it was greenline or nengun or ?? I got them from.

Yeah i think we was saying that like gearboxes, which are pretty much all the same in how they work, the factory, Nismo, Cusco etc LSDs are also pretty much the same. He can setup the rear to be tighter, however, since the after market ones are larger/beefier they will last longer.

No warrantee on the shop build? Any idea what caused the failure? What oil were you using and how far up the dipstick was it filled to? What was the driving conditions when it went? (track/dragstrip/street fang/street cruise, rpm)

Yeah i reckon its something like this below - area under the curve is the same, but peak load/force is much lower with a soft (sprung) clutch. Engineering 101.

I'd say about 10cm from death.

Notes! Please post any corrections/additions. (FWIW I was the guy in the Exodus T shirt, Black 32 GTR with R34 wheels). Clutches with solid centers should not be used as they put a lot more strain on the gearbox. He reinforced this point many times, seems to be a common issue. Of course there are full race corner cases where they make sense, but you'll know why you're getting one if you're in that situation. Likewise clutch plates should have a marcel spring (which is between the friction material pads, so the clutch plate is a pad/marcel spring/pad sandwich) You have to run a clutch in. If you don't, they can melt onto the flywheel, which means it wont disengage. Terry will happily make mantle pieces out of stuff you break spectacularly Other than solid center clutches, the other thing that stuffs gearboxes is user brutality. Solid mounting of diff cradles also increases rigidity in a way that's detrimental (for the gearbox? or drive train more generally?), so make especially sure you use a sprung center clutch if you have a solidly mounted diff cradle. Clutches dissipate heat and get hot When you install a new clutch, which should come with lubricant. Make sure you lube; clutch pivot/fork, fork/throw out bearing, input shaft splines. If you didn't get lube use never seize black moly disulphide. Use oil, not grease, for the standard bronze spigot bearing. If you have a needle roller spigot use HTB grease. Showed an input shaft that had its splines severely damaged by a solid center clutch in 6 months. No clutch pedal should be heavy these days, due to new materials, spring pivot points, and if required, changing diameter of the hydraulic cylinders. Mineral oils are better than synthetics in situations where you want friction (sychros, LSDs). Change gearbox oils regularly, say every year. Some of the oil will evaporate and escape out the breather, so connect a gearbox catch can that drains back down the breather. (was this in the context of smurfs blood or more generally?). If your multi-plate clutch doesn't rattle, then it doesn't have its clearance set correctly EDIT: Also; - LOCTITE 20166 Flange Sealant highly recommended for sump gaskets etc. Also known as Loctite 5900. 20166 is the part number. Available from Repco. - If you want an extended sump mod for your GTR use Leon from Performance Metalcraft. - Both R32 and R33 attessas have no preload. You can test this for yourself by just using your hand to spin the front drive shaft. He recommends you remove the drive shaft on R32s as well as R33s when using a 2WD dyno. Just removing the fuse in a 32 will stop drive to the front wheels but wont stop wear on the attessa plates

OP, have you have re-torqued it to make sure its not just loose?

Paidypoos. I only found out that this was on after seeing the Supporter gif that some people had and coming back to trawl through this thread. Promote! Like everyone I hate spam, but in this case I reckon you should all users a message.

Looks like the list is almost full - please add me in!

The dwell is the same on all six though, right? Higher dwell will run them hotter, so you would expect that to reduce their life, but I would expect that worst case it would just kill the primary coil, which would then become an open or short circuit. That big chunk out of the side is some weird shit. Do you have an aftermarket ECU?

They look a lot like the ones i have, and are still going well after many years. My ones were from Notlec, who later went out of business. Other Noltec stuff was shit - radius rod bushes from them fell apart. Superpro replacement rod bushes are going well.

How much castor were you running when that happened?

Just get a suspension shop to do it, then get an alignment done after.

Check the rotor first, but it can be other things like radius rod bushes. ^ good point about it sticking at certain points. If you get that, take the rotor off and clean the rotor and hub mating surfaces until they're perfectly clean. Might as well get the rotors machined while they're off as long as they have enough meat. I'd guess it would only be 5 pounds (euros?) each for that. Do you have a dial gauge and calipers that can measure thickness over the lip that's typically on the outside edge of rotors? If so you may be able to avoid the rotor machine with the right measurements.

Warm up for seeing them tomorrow

Nah it just holds the intermediate plate and cover (pressure plate) and stops them from spinning relative to the engine. Probably better to google image it because i'm not explaining it well. If NPC say what they sold you is good for 400-450, then i'd be confident it is.

Yeah if you're replacing the flywheel then that changes the value equation, because multiplate clutches come with an integrated flywheel/plate cage.

Blend door servo motor? http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236489-r32-air-conditioning/#entry4140042

^ yep. OP give it a rev at night with the bonnet open - you might be able to see arcing

I now run half a bottle of octane booster per tank to keep it from knocking at the moment? Is that a statement or a question? If you are running octane booster and the knock goes away, then you can confirm its real knock. If you want to play around with the tune, then follow Jiffo's advice. If you dont want play around, then just take it back to the tuner to fix.

I have been told that shockproof in an LSD will make it operate a little tighter. Can't remember source of that information, so don't know if its credible. Contact Redline to see what they say and let us know.

I use the NPC 250mm organic single with 300kws and track days. But you don't launch at track days, so they're gentle on clutches. Its as easy to drive as the stock clutch. AFAIK the next step up from NPC is the carbotic, which will take more power and more punishment, but be a bit more difficult to drive. Since my GTR is no longer a daily, I would go for that now. I think the Nismo coppermix twin recommendation is over the top for your use case, unless of course you have nothing better to do with the money.