MrStabby

OP, have you have re-torqued it to make sure its not just loose?

Paidypoos. I only found out that this was on after seeing the Supporter gif that some people had and coming back to trawl through this thread. Promote! Like everyone I hate spam, but in this case I reckon you should all users a message.

Looks like the list is almost full - please add me in!

The dwell is the same on all six though, right? Higher dwell will run them hotter, so you would expect that to reduce their life, but I would expect that worst case it would just kill the primary coil, which would then become an open or short circuit. That big chunk out of the side is some weird shit. Do you have an aftermarket ECU?

They look a lot like the ones i have, and are still going well after many years. My ones were from Notlec, who later went out of business. Other Noltec stuff was shit - radius rod bushes from them fell apart. Superpro replacement rod bushes are going well.

How much castor were you running when that happened?

Just get a suspension shop to do it, then get an alignment done after.

Check the rotor first, but it can be other things like radius rod bushes. ^ good point about it sticking at certain points. If you get that, take the rotor off and clean the rotor and hub mating surfaces until they're perfectly clean. Might as well get the rotors machined while they're off as long as they have enough meat. I'd guess it would only be 5 pounds (euros?) each for that. Do you have a dial gauge and calipers that can measure thickness over the lip that's typically on the outside edge of rotors? If so you may be able to avoid the rotor machine with the right measurements.

Warm up for seeing them tomorrow

Nah it just holds the intermediate plate and cover (pressure plate) and stops them from spinning relative to the engine. Probably better to google image it because i'm not explaining it well. If NPC say what they sold you is good for 400-450, then i'd be confident it is.

Yeah if you're replacing the flywheel then that changes the value equation, because multiplate clutches come with an integrated flywheel/plate cage.

Blend door servo motor? http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/236489-r32-air-conditioning/#entry4140042

^ yep. OP give it a rev at night with the bonnet open - you might be able to see arcing

I now run half a bottle of octane booster per tank to keep it from knocking at the moment? Is that a statement or a question? If you are running octane booster and the knock goes away, then you can confirm its real knock. If you want to play around with the tune, then follow Jiffo's advice. If you dont want play around, then just take it back to the tuner to fix.

I have been told that shockproof in an LSD will make it operate a little tighter. Can't remember source of that information, so don't know if its credible. Contact Redline to see what they say and let us know.

I use the NPC 250mm organic single with 300kws and track days. But you don't launch at track days, so they're gentle on clutches. Its as easy to drive as the stock clutch. AFAIK the next step up from NPC is the carbotic, which will take more power and more punishment, but be a bit more difficult to drive. Since my GTR is no longer a daily, I would go for that now. I think the Nismo coppermix twin recommendation is over the top for your use case, unless of course you have nothing better to do with the money.

They're street tyres in the pics, so 4 deg is definitely too much. Surely he needs to be < 2?

Hmm I could tell when they were out, one set (cant remember if inners or outers now) were stuffed, other set was probably still ok, but I wanted it to be perfect, and didnt want to have to try to get the old ones out after breaking my remover tool. I was installing the Nismo arm kit at the same time so didnt need to get them out since i wasnt using the original lower arms anymore. Sloppy ball joints probably wont do that much for the camber anyway, so you may as well focus on the upper arm first if cash is really tight.

FYI there's an inner and outer ball joint. I did mine a while back, got them from Kudos for $88 each (inner and outer are same price).

FWIW i emailled [email protected] the question "Can you tell me how much stiffer this bar is, when using the hard setting, over standard?" (subject of email was BNR26XZ stiffness spec over standard). The response was: "This bar is much bigger than OE and as a result, you will see an increase of approx. 230-250% in rate."

If you always vote for the same party you're probably letting your self-identity determine your beliefs, rather than evidence. That said, just vote for some pack of dream boats.

Upper control arm bushes at the top and ball joints at the bottom. If its lowered then that adds neg camber. Conventional wisdom is that 350mm top of guard to wheel centerline is as low as you can go at the front and still have the suspension work properly. Rear is 340mm minimum. If its lower than that, raise it up to that at least first. However, at that height you will still need either two sets of adjustable bushes each side, or adjustable arms to get enough adjustability to get the camber right. EDIT: Whiteline do adjustable bushes for the upper arm. IIRC inner and outer bushes are the same, so if you only lower a little one set may do, but if you're at 350 you need two sets.

If you're staying with stock power, and driving it normally, that clutch is fine. If you're going for more power or will be launching/clutch dumping it, it will be inadequate.

+1 Pretty sure everyone ends up doing that. djr - So you're saying the cusco is stiffer than the rear whiteline adjustable on full stiff, right?

Just some old Tein NAs. Originally the front was 8kgs (and was the Oran Park setup for a track car), but i wanted less oversteer, hence the swap to the softer fronts.