MrStabby

Yeah it could be HICAS, the plug is the right small size. If the hydraulics have been removed just tie it away somewhere. The rear HICAS solenoid unit is bolted to the inside of the drivers side chassis rail, if its still there

Ah - of course that makes sense, but i'd completely missed it. The flow characteristic matching is very close (the 22680-RR580 is the Nismo). Anyway, i've fiddled the K and injector latency so its fine to drive, and booked it in for a dyno tune.

Yeah i had a thread on the Nistune forums about those settings because i thought the same thing; http://forum.nistune.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=3402 I'm still not sure what to do based on that thread, and perhaps the original tune was done with incorrect settings, which will further confuse the issue. I guess i'll just stuff around with the halve/double stuff to see what gets it somewhere close, then play with K and injector latency to get it it the right ballpark before it goes in for more boost and dyno tune.

My board is a very early one and has not been sent back for the newer firmware. No feature pack, and I'm using the latest software v1.2.62. What's the idle fuelling stuff called in Nistune? EDIT: Also, if I use the accelerator, only pumping adds enough fuel to keep the engine running, if i just hold the pedal down a bit it still goes too lean and stops EDIT2: Found this in the workshop guide "Adjust latency to trim idle/low load mixtures (there is no separate idle mixture table in Nissan ECUs)"

MAF change in Nistune Warning: Noob hackery I have swapped out stock MAFs for Nismo MAFs, then used the Nistune Change MAF function to update from BNR32 RB26DETT (290 HP) to Z32 VG30DETT (500 HP). This causes a slight change in profile of the VQ map and changes K from 233 to 401, which is same ratio as 290 to 500. If I now try to start the car its too lean (leaner than my WB can read). As an ugly hack to get it to idle, i changed K from 401 to 880, and it idled at 17:1 and if i take it to 1100 it idles at 14:1. If I then drive its really rich off idle eg 10:1 as would be expected. Now i want to see if normal driving is ok at K=401, so i need to richen up the idle. I've changed the bottom left cells of the fuel map (all originally around 0). I tried 3, 6, 12, 24, 48, uploading the maps to ECU after each change, but the idle stays way too rich. No idea where to go from here...

The more toe you have the more stable the car will be, ie less tramlining and the steering wheel will return to straight strongly. The less toe the more willing the car will be to change direction, so its a trade off. Since my Stag is the daily it has toe, but the GTR is zero.

I recall a story of someone using an aftermarket needle roller spigot in an RB, only to have it fail. So, if you do try one make sure you get a reputable brand, and consider it a test. Since you're having trouble i'd stick to the known good OEM option rather than adding another variable to a setup with issues.

Tomie hicas kit, hydraulics removal The GTR has the Tomie kit, but the unused hydraulics are still there. To remove the crap i just re-route the hydraulics as shown below then pull all the disconnected bits out, right?

Even so, how does a soft material like bronze chew out a hardened steel material? If there was a lubrication problem i would expect the spigot to be chewed out.

Listen for scrapes at the back when you corner hard/hit a bump. I had +20s and they scraped at the the back with 255s. Since you'll have 4mm less gap you'll need to get the rear guards rolled.

Penrite and Ryco are Australian brands so not relevant for you in the US. IIRC you can get Mobil M1 oil filters and Wix are good too. Since you're crunching 3rd a bit Lightweight shockproof is a good choice.

I use Mobil 1 0W-40 and since OP is in the US that would suit. Filter - nissan or any quality name brand Gearbox - Redline light shockproof is good in a worn box, but if the box is in good nick, then MT-90 would probably be a better choice Brake/clutch - Motul 660 is overkill for a street car, its a lot more expensive than a regular super dot 4, and typically the higher temperature brake fluids are more hygroscopic, so require more frequent changing. Any quality super dot 4 should be fine. Edit: oh and +1 to doing ALL the coolant hoses, and yes its a bitch of a job. Plenum off IIRC.

Dunno but I wouldn't have thought that seals or pistons could really be a problem on any modern OEM caliper. I'd reckon calipers would exclude themselves for performance use based on: total piston area (as Roy rightly bangs on about), lack of rigidity, pad size/availability, caliper cost/availability...

Interesting that Repco even carry RB25 pumps. What brand? Oh and dont forget to return it to them and get your money back

Ok, so are you going to have a built motor, and make something over say 350awkw?

Oh - good point about oil pressure. If you don't produce good oil pressure on thin oil, dump it straight away and keep stepping up in visc until you do.

Yep - it worked

Hi - i'm running -7s, currently 305kw @ ~17psi. I've ordered Nismo MAFs to try to push the boost at bit further to see what happens. I will instruct the tuner to keep going until he hits the sweet spot. Each setup is a bit different, so whether that's at 20 or 22 or whatever PSI is best left to tuner to decide IMO. You will also need injectors if you dont have them already. EDIT: Also get adjustable cam gears Re #1 - any expansion causes turbulence, which is restrictive, but losses inside a tighter pipe will be higher than those in larger diameter pipe so its complicated... Re #2 - I reckon the best way to know if your air filter setup is restrictive would be to measure the pressure in the air box immediately down stream of the filter. Would require some instrumentation which i dont know how to do, but will look into what's available with a electronic vac/boost gauge that logs. Re #3 - there is a lip right at the turbo flange, on the right had side if you were looking at the manifold with turbo flange facing upward with the head flanges facing away from you. I would measure this dimension on the turbo flange and remove enough of the lip to make it the same. To really make it perfect you would also measure the openings from the bolt holes to determine if the lip side is the right bit to remove, but IIRC it was on mine. There's also a little imperfect machining on the opposite side to the lip that can be smoothed off a bit. Re #6 - Dunno. Might be worth washing your current one out. If its full of greasy blowby shit that probably wont help heat transfer. My guess is it would negligible different tho. At -7 level changing it is probably very low bang for buck. Re #7 - as above, let the tuner find it. Re #8 - may ppl are neanderthals WRT oil. I run Mobil 1 0w-40 but i havent tested it yet. If you are going to run thinner than that, I would get a used oil test at say 3000 or 4000kms to see how its going. Full synth only of course, and overfill to the dipstick bump if you are doing any track days. -7s are R34 N1s - is that what you mean? They should spin freely as they're ball bearing. I'd take them to a turbo specialist for a quick look. Replacing the turbos is big painful job... Other than that, maybe think about getting the twin pipe divider mod. Might be worth a few kws. There's threads on here about it.

Thread reply submission fails EDIT: but this obviously worked... Hi, just tried to reply - the Submit button changes to "Saving" for a second, but then goes back to Submit without adding the entry. This thread:

What are the stumpy cylinders at the top and bottom? Are they attached to the pad's backing plates?

Work out the internal diameter that's required then go to an Enzed or Pirtek and say you need hose to suit transmission fluid of that ID

Just checking - is float a problem with the neo solid setup @~300kw, or is that more an issue for the non-neo hydraulic at that power level?

Currently has 280 degree fluid and it goes off a bit at the track (pedal gets deeper and heel/toe becomes tricky), so I bleed some off and the pedal is hard again. Comes out completely clean. I'm going to change to Motul RBF600 (triple the price but 310 degrees) because i dont want to have to bleed it at the track.