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MrStabby

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Everything posted by MrStabby

  1. MrStabby
    Interestingly the M35 spout is 1.2mm higher (seal surface to cap surface) than the R32, and since force = distance x spring constant, so any cap will have less sealing pressure on the M35 compared to the R32 (for the radiators i have)
  2. MrStabby
    I didnt do the work last summer, because lazy. Yes always bled. Temp gauge apparently working fine, and giving repeatable results, ie moving above normal level correlates with loss of coolant, and vice verca. I wonder if i can get a nismo cap for it... EDIT: R32 and M35 caps are the same so ill try the Nismo from the GTR on it
  3. MrStabby
    M35 overheating In cold weather, it looses no coolant, and is fine (all winter). But after a few 35 degree plus days it looses coolant and overheats. If i top it up and drive in cool weather, it again looses no coolant and is fine. Last summer it got a new thermostat, radiator and radiator cap, and was holding pressure. Is your M35 ok in 35+ weather? How do i troubleshoot this, or are M35s a bit iffy under extreme temps?
  4. MrStabby
    I like that you dont throw away expensive oil that's in good condition. There should be more of this good sense.
  5. MrStabby
    I'm worried you might be headed for problems. The coilovers are a much better option than lowered springs, which will likely ruin whatever shocks you have, new or old. Search on here for SydneyKid's thread about using lowered springs with stock shocks for details. Also, when you lower, you change the suspension geometry, so you will need various sets of adjustable arms/bushes to just be able to get the alignment back to where it should be. There are old SydneyKid threads that say how much extra kit you need for what height - the lower you go, the more extra kit you need.
  6. MrStabby
    If the clutch is solid center, try a sprung center instead. What oil are you using?
  7. MrStabby
    Blah_blah - more or less than V28s 275kw?
  8. MrStabby
    Yeah that seems very quick to be getting to your limits. Did you push past 105/120 on Thursday? At what temp did the coolant come out the overflow? (or was that from heat soak after stopping the motor?)
  9. MrStabby
    Weird. So temperatures were ok? (do you trust your temp gauge?)
  10. MrStabby
    What's the logic here? Lost compression wont cause head gasket issues, but head gasket issues can cause lost compression. Are you saying that the head gasket fix didnt take, or that there was a piston/valve issue and that the HG was ok all along?
  11. MrStabby
    EDIT: The 6 pin plug is 1 -> 6, not 6 -> 1. Working now Ok i've got mine installed and wiring in, but no worky. Here's how 6, 5, 4 coilpacks are wired - does it look correct? The 3 and 6 pin connectors show facing the factory plugs, and the others are facing the coils. AFAIK the +12V comes up when IGN is on, and the signal from the ECU is +5V when the ignitor should disconnect ground to the primary solenoid, right?
  12. MrStabby
    FWIW i'm running 18x10.5 +25s wearing 265/35s on my BNR32. Rear guards are rolled and the front rubbed with unmodified guard liners. The tyre manufacturer data I looked at confirmed that 265 is a suitable fitment on 10.5in rims, but every tyre is different so check the specific tyre you're considering before you buy it.
  13. MrStabby
    Yeah what's even the point of the PCV? Dont the oil drains provide a path from the crankcase to the cam covers, and there's no PCV on the cam cover vents. I must be missing something.
  14. MrStabby
    What are you guys doing with the timing loop? Leaving it disconnected?
  15. MrStabby
    AFAIK: The rolled up end will be for connecting to the plug, so about 6.3mm ID. For the other end, crimp it down enough so it grips on the coil terminal a bit. If your coilpacks are D514a's or similar, then the connector will be "captured" by the plug and the coil terminal when its assembled, so wont be able to move. If the boots are problem (insulation problem), then there will be arcing from the coilpack to the head. Sometimes putting a little dielectric grease the surfaces where the boot touches the coilpack and head can help with that. If the boots ripped you'll have to get another.
  16. MrStabby
    Yeah AFAIK they're all plug and play. R32 GTR kit just bolts up.
  17. MrStabby
    I'm thinking about cutting up some copper tube and shaping the ends instead of using these - would it be ok?
  18. MrStabby
    ^ sweet - i'm less power and less ambient temp, so should be fine with similar.
  19. MrStabby
    My sarcasm detector is off the charts! Might need a stronger actuator spring, since force=pressure x area and you may have just increased the area (if its sealing closer to the edge of the flapper)
  20. MrStabby
    I'm concerned that generic stuff wont last long with the temperatures and fumes... too paranoid?
  21. MrStabby
    Looks like their website is dead - i'll message them. Ok, there's big gaps everywhere.... who sells foam that's up to the job?
  22. MrStabby
    Also - do these things do anything? The bonnet already blocks air from heading over the top doesnt it? http://justjap.com/engine/cooling/sri-greddy-style-alloy-radiator-cooling-panel-nissan-skyline-gtr-bnr32-black.html
  23. MrStabby
    How much power is your GTR making? How long are you track sessions? If its less than ~320kw then a 50mm should be fine for me too i'd reckon.
  24. MrStabby
    Just the HPI Multi Flow Evolve, but its only 40mm according to RHD. JJ has its "HPI Evolve" at 50mm, and the add says "Provides 30% Increased Cooling Efficiency".
  25. MrStabby
    Yep have oil cooler. Until the last power upgrade, I'd get to about 110 on the factory oil temp gauge, and the coolant temp would stay at half way on the factory gauge. Now coolant gets to 3/4s quickly.
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