MrStabby

Jesus, completely forgot about that post....senility is hitting hard. IIRC that was before i got the CoolingPro cleaned. Anyways, pretty sure i'll go the PWR now.

Ok cool. I can see the 55 would be a massive PITA. FWIW, I measured up the NM35 fan+clutch when i had it out and it looks like it would bolt on and be 15mm shorter, but the back of fan may then touch balancer pulley, and there's so much other stuff that would still be a problem. Will email PWR to see if they'll offer an opinion on whether it should be ok, but will almost certainly go with the 42mm PWR. Thanks!

Johnny how thick is your PWR? 42mm? 55mm? Two options listed for R32 Part No: PWR0546 – Skyline 32GTR and GtST 55m (needs thermo) 55mm ([email protected]) Part No: PWR0943 – Skyline 32GTR and GTST 42mm ([email protected])

Yep, the cleaning helped, and the Natrad guy said it came up good after it was done. He also said the Cooling Pro was actually decent, unlike most of the yum cha chinese stuff he sees. Temps are fine for non-track usage. Water pump has maybe 20,000kms on it, thermostat has been replaced, fan clutch has strong resistance to being stopped, coolant replaced, properly bled.

I have an 8yo Cooling Pro 40mm triple core from Justjap, which has been recently cleaned by Natrad, but the car quickly overheated on a 23 degree track day. I was going to get a Racepace triple core, but they have stopped doing them as they cant find a decent core supplier. What can i upgrade to that will do the job?

If your M35 is overheating, check that the fan clutch is still supplying enough drive to move a decent amount of air. Fortunately, the fan clutch on the M35 is bolted together, which means it can be refilled. It will spin quite fast even it if it is completely stuffed. Search youtube for videos on how to check it (eg 1. Drive the car until everything is fully up to temperature. This will take a lot longer than to bring the temperature gauge up to its normal position. 2. Use an old magazine (or whatever) to slowly press against the spinning fan blades to slow them down. The fan will have a fair bit of momentum, even if the clutch is stuffed. I could hold the fan still with barely any pressure using my pinkie finger after it had slowed down. Again - watch some videos first. If you confirm that the clutch is stuffed, you will need fluid to re-fill it. Many use Toyota fluid, example part numbers are 08816-03001 or 08816-06001 or 08816-10001, which are 3000, 6000 and 10000 CST respectively. Higher CST is thicker/more viscous. The Toyota fluid is about $17 for 12ml on ebay. The fluid is reported to be silicon oil, which cost me $20 for 50ml from a hobby store. You need about 80ml. I originally used 10000 cst from both Toyota and hobby store and they appeared the same. I don't know what viscosity is correct, but the car sounds like an old skool v8 with fan noise now, so its either correct or too viscous (or i added too much fluid). EDIT: 10000 is definitely too thick - I have swapped it for 6000 which is better, but i'm still getting some belt squeal at high RPM, so either i have a belt/tension issue or its still too thick. Suggest 3000 as a starting point for anyone trying this. Steps are; 1. Remove the air box snorkel, and air box. 2. Undo the 4 x 10mm headed nuts from the fan mount, and the 2 bolts holding the top of the fan shroud on, and lift them out together. This will require a bit of wriggling 3. Spray the bolts, screws and pin in the middle of the bi-metallic strip of the fan assembly with WD40, and leave to soak. 4. Take the fan off the fan clutch (10mm headed bolts) 5. Undo the phillips head screws holding the two halves of the clutch together, and pry them apart. 6. Leave the two halves upside down to drain the old fluid overnight, or clean them out with solvent. When i drained out the new 10000cst it didn't come out clean, so i'd recommend cleaning it out now, even though i didnt. AFAIK, WD40, Kerosine, Degreaser etc leave a greasy residue and will contaminate the new fluid, so brake cleaner is probably a better option. 7. Use needle nose pliers to verify that the pin at the center of the bi-metallic strip on the outside of clutch can turn a little / is not seized. 8. Fill the reservoir up with new fluid. I filled to the top of the first step, so about the level of the black rectangle in the centre. 9. Bolt the two halves together and re-attach the fan 10. Re-install the fan and shroud, being careful to get the tabs at the bottom of the shroud keyed in before you bolt the top on. 11. Beers

Ok, so the hydraulic clutch on the main fan was completely stuffed. When moving it has a lot of momentum, but once i slowed it down (youtube search "how to test a viscous fan clutch"), I could hold it still with my pinkie finger. Have refilled it and the air it moves sounds like an old v8!

334kw in 2WD mode on -7s Nistune (tuned by Unigroup) Xforce split dumps Aftermarket front pipe (56mm(2.25“) ID primaries/76mm(3”) sec), 3.5in matrix 100 cell cat, 3.5 in Trust Cat back Blitz SSBC boost controller Xspurt 1000cc injectors LS2 (D514a) coilpacks Trust Intercooler, about the same size as stock Sard 280l/hr high volume fuel pump with direct earth Mobil M1 0W-40

Just read the codes and got; P0150 02 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor I) P0151 02 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor I) P0160 02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 2) P0162 02 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 3) Is bank2 driver or passenger side? Are there really 3 sensors per bank, so 6 in total? (dafuq?) Given that they all happen to be on one side, i'm guessing its wiring.

IIRC heat from the back of the inlet valve is used to help atomise the fuel.

On the 32 GTR, this hack; uses a diode to make the auxiliary fan come on when the air con is turned on. On the 32 It seemed to keep the coolant temp down and the cabin cooler. I'd like to try it on the Stag. Looks like there's no relay/fuses for air con presented at the wiring junction near the battery. Has anyone got a wiring diagram or a translation for the footwell fuse box? Other than waiting until the next overheat, how would i check that the aux fan is running at all?

Did that and it worked well. The fluid didnt look great so i pushed 8 litres through. Now crossing fingers to see if its enough to stop the overheating.

I've just done the 4lts in the pan a couple of times, so it shouldn't be too bad but i havent checked in a while. I had assumed that pumping it all out would be risky for any running that occurred after the last of the fluid was out. Do you think pumping it all out would be safe?

After i've connected the cooler, i'm thinking of running it with the outlet into a bucket for a few seconds to flush it just in case. Is there any risk with doing that? Will it flow in neutral or will it need to be in drive?

Im installing a Scotty cooling/bleeder kit - do the black plastic washers/spacers go between the fuel rail and the manifold? Cant see them in my photos...

Thanks - i've updated the front page with your info.

"the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has granted Breakthrough Therapy Designation to MDMA for the treatment of posttraumatic stress disorder (PTSD)." http://www.maps.org/news/media/6786-press-release-fda-grants-breakthrough-therapy-designation-for-mdma-assisted-psychotherapy-for-ptsd,-agrees-on-special-protocol-assessment-for-phase-3-trials

EDIT: Doh - wrong thread. "the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has granted Breakthrough Therapy Designation to MDMA for the treatment of posttraumatic stress disorder (PTSD)." http://www.maps.org/news/media/6786-press-release-fda-grants-breakthrough-therapy-designation-for-mdma-assisted-psychotherapy-for-ptsd,-agrees-on-special-protocol-assessment-for-phase-3-trials

You can get your struts re-gassed. I had the Stagea ones done, and the dude put a bit more than standard pressure in them as its was still a bit soft at spec.

Yes, with significant marketing department involvement.

Fuel pump electric problems can be related to the fuel pump control module (which switches either a soft or a full earth when its working) dying, and many people bypass it and run a new earth to the pump. I did that after the second FPCM died. Re injectors, if they're high impedance then you need to bypass the resistor pack. Long shot try jump starting. If it turns over really well it might lull you into a false impression of how much juice the battery is pumping out.