MrStabby

Mine has the factory cd/tape/radio system that's integrated into the fascia, so its different to yours (there's no DIN slots). Got any more info on that touch screen setup? I know a little about android having installed lineageOS on a motorola.

I'm thinking of getting https://sinergymotorsports.com.au/product/stereo-fascia-nissan-v35-series-1/ but at $535 i'm wondering if there are any other options. Also, is there anything else i need to know about removing the factory satnav/stereo unit?

FYI for info on the phillips/JIS/Posidriv/Torx/etc options check out https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives Looks like the 'Vessel' brand does JIS, anyone have other suggestions on brand (or shop)?

Android / iphone software is 'hobdrive'. The ebay link to the wifi obd2 dongle is now dead, so its a lucky dip to find one that will work. I'd go for wifi over bluetooth, and I have a weird memory that getting something with VW Golf support is more likely to work... or maybe i just made that up.

TIL (and had mind blown) that what look like phillips head screw/bolt heads are actually JIS, which is less 'spikey'. Am I the only one ignorant of this?

Lumleys said they wouldnt cover the car at all if it was ever tracked...

Looks like Famous are no longer an option. I'll get quotes from Shannons and Enthusiast, is there anyone else i should try? What are people getting for agreed value for a decent 32 GTR?

The Fenix one i got is a perfect fit. Sorry I don't have the part number. Have you tried asking them? No shroud - its on the Fenix in the car.

Is there a better way to report this?

Are you in Sydney? If so ill sell you a near new OEM Nissan one (3 months use) for $200. Otherwise Fenix do one for around $400 (can't remember where i got it). The OEM is about $800 new, so the Fenix is a much better option (its thicker). I was stuffing around with radiators until i found the problem was with the fan clutch

FWIW my M35 cranks hard even when it doesn't have enough electric power to start. First thing i'd do it try a jump start after double checking battery connections and charge. IIRC the battery should be 12.6 volts when fully charged.

Use synthetic fluid when you re-fill. Its got a higher boiling/flash point. Just got some new track tyres so I want to try luddenham.

Check for loose / leaky hoses, in particular the ones to the fuel pressure regulators. When they've hardened a bit with age the boost can blow them off. In mine, the fuel trims maxed out when i had leaks. If you can measure vac at idle, i'll check mine so you can compare.

Its time for a new set of tyres so i guess i'll try the AR1s. Ebay can deliver 265/35/18s for around $300each, but is there a shop in Sydney that will supply them for something close to that?

Looks like its normal to see 0 in hobdrive. My issue was fixed with new coilpacks.

I see from https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465219-m35-stagea-running-like-crap/ That the MAF signal is 0 and i'm getting the same thing. Is anyone getting non-zero?

My VQ25DET was needing about 0.5-1L of 0W-40 per 5000kms, but the cam cover gaskets have been changed (pink slip fail) so hopefully that consumption will reduce (not that the garage floor showed more than the occasional drop of leakage..).

Engine is running poorly, and OBD said that the signal from the MAF was 0.0. I replaced the MAF insert (22680-6N21A), and its still 0.0. Inlet temp sensor works with old and new insert. So either the problem is; 1. ODB misreporting MAF signal, and there's some other issue that doesn't trigger a CEL 2. new MAF is dead 3. wiring issue I'm starting with looking at #3.There's 5 pins on the connector to the MAF. I've measured resistance to ground with ignition off, and then voltage with ignition on. Pin - resistance - volts w/ Ign on 1 - infinite - 5 2 - 111 - 12 3 - 0 - 0 4 - infinite - 5 5 - infinite - 0 Does anyone know the MAF pinout? Where is the ECU? I've got an ECU pinout from here, so i could check the MAF to ECU wiring.

Could be just the oil from the crankcase ventilation system. All those pipes will be covered with an oily film on the inside and its normal. However, if there is a boost leak of any significance there you would expect to be down on power and see black smoke out the exhaust. Quality pipe clamps (a type that are meant to be reused) are a worthwhile upgrade over the factory stuff.

My 2c, with a lot of agreement with what others have said. The key things are: exercise, sleep, nutrition, meditation, medication, therapy - Exercise helps most people but not all. I find exercise makes me feel worse but this is probably due to chronic fatigue (which is better known as exercise induced fatigue). I partially mitigate by being careful not to go too hard at the gym and getting massages. I wonder how much of this issue is due to medication...But for most people this is probably the first thing to get into and should help. - Sleep is really important. Make your room pitch black. I've got black tape over anything with an LED to achieve this. Avoid bright lights and screens a few hours before bed as blue light suppresses melatonin production. Caffeine has a long half life, so better to avoid after midday. Even if it doesnt prevent you from falling asleep, it does reduce sleep quality. Check you dont have sleep apnoea. https://time.com/5189387/dark-room-sleep-study/ - OP mentioned lethargy & apathy - i've heard depression also called a lack of vigour. A little Adderall or Modafinil can help with this symptom, but you'll need a script. - The biggest mistake with people starting meditation is that they believe that the goal is to not be thinking, and therefore if they catch themselves thinking, they have failed and give up believing they cant do it. The goal is to catch yourself thinking, as you have to realise you are thinking before you can try to stop. After 20+ years, I am still mostly in a trance of automatic thought, occasionally catching myself and entering brief periods of mere observation without thought. - A lot of therapists suck. Expect to have to churn through some to find someone decent. - For mild depression medications are about as effective as placebo - For major depression medications can help, but none are a cure and finding which one is best is found with experimentation - When you're deep in, sometimes all you can do is wait, and that's good enough I need to get around to reading this; https://www.foundmyfitness.com/topics/depression

Mine would idle ok when cold, and when hot it would idle for a short time ok, then get rough. With RB motors i've heard of circumstances where the coilpacks get marginal when they're hot. Havent heard of that with VQ coils but it could be a thing. Oh - the other issue i noticed when there was a vac leak was that both fuel trims would max out (one at +25% and the other at +10%). info https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280322-m35-obd2-or-is-it/page/4/#comments

I've had a bit of trouble with old and hardened manifold vac/boost hoses blowing off under boost. Last one was difficult to spot since the fuel rail (fuel pressure regulator) end had come off. I now know what to look for when the idle goes a bit wonky... but it shouldnt happen now that the bad hoses have been replaced. You could start the motor and remove the non-manifold end of each hose one at a time. Block the end with your thumb to verify there's vacuum and that the idle changes. If you have a vacuum gauge check what the manifold has at idle.

I have one I bought from Scotty a year or two ago. Never fitted it because the rebuild came back quicker. Let me know if you want it. $200 in Sydney.

Yeah. Even though twins and twin scroll both address the exhaust pulse interaction issue, no-ones doing modern bolt on twins (AFAIK, tiny market by comparison) so you're stuck with old & inferior turbo tech if you go that way.

Yep. Sure, double the length will double the loss due to length, but the changes in direction, interference etc would be a far more significant cause of losses than these relatively short lengths. Or so my intuition (and only intuition, no actual data) tells me.