MrStabby

Found this; "I'm about to order a single din ac control board from the states. This is what you need if you're getting rid of your pos bose integrated stereo (or the non bose integrated). You need this board because the ac controls are all part of the clarion (bose) circuit board and when you remove the stereo you remove the ac controls."

Ok, so the 15amp 'radio' fuse near the battery had blown. Replaced it and the new radio works again. However, it appears that the climate controls are dependent on the factory radio being plugged in. admS15s post above made me think that maybe the ac controls are getting earth from via the oem radio connector, so i tried earthing its chassis but it didn't seem to help. So my next guess is it needs the BAT and IGN +12v? Anyone know if the climate controls require the oen radio plugged in/what the dependency is?

To answer my own questions; - (Some/all) head units don't come with ISO connectors so (some/most/all) connections are via two harness adapters, eg a nissan to iso female, then iso male to pioneer/JVC/whatever. - I also needed a 'Nissan Double Diversity' aerial adapter (Aerpro AP348A). IIRC the R32 skyline had the same aerial connector as the Stagea. So for the Stag to JVC, i got; - 'Nissan ISO Connector' APP0120 - 'JVC to ISO Harness 16 pin' APP8JVCS - Nissan Double Diversity' AP348A It worked once then nothing. Suspect there is an underlying wiring issue that was present before the change as i had issues with the factory system.

Currently i need to plug my phone in with a cable to play music in my Stag, and i want to change to bluetooth and keep the center console volume button working as it does now. An aftermarket head unit had been installed in the passenger side slot where the navigation system usually lives, and the navigation system was retained but moved underneath. The aftermarket head unit daisy chains with the factory system such that when TV is selected on the center console, i can play music from my phone via cable. The audio appears to work by connections run from the head unit to the factory TV box at the rear of the car. Makes sense that the audio works when TV is selected. Question - is there any weird dependencies that will mean i can't take the Nav unit and TV unit out of the system? I'm hoping i can just splice the audio out from the new headunit into the audio out from the TV box.

I've bought a ctek mxs 5.0 (mentioned by BK above, $129 delivered from ebay) and the instruction video says you can leave it connected for extended periods of time. So, refer to vendor doco, but as trident says seems like any good one should be able to be left connected indefinitely.

- Do most modern aftermarket head units come with ISO male connectors at the back? - So, when fitting a modern head unit to a modern car you typically need a single harness adapter, eg nissan to ISO female - When fitting an older head unit you'd typically need two harness adapters, eg a nissan to iso female, then iso male to pioneer/JVC/whatever - Are all the <$300 no brand Android head units dogshit? tnx

I have a battery isolator, so AFAIK there's no benefit to a trickle charger, right?

Ended up getting a NS40ZLX after confirming the cables just reach by using an old NS40ZL from the Stagea. The bonnet is still well clear of the positive terminal, so only slightly ghetto.

Century have confirmed the NS40ZX has been discontinued

That might be the NS40ZX (410 CCA) which is not listed on Century's website any more. I've sent them a message to ask if its been discontinued. https://www.centurybatteries.com.au/products/car-batteries The NS40Z is the 330CCA version, which is 'D' polarity (ie positive on the left, and you install it 'backwards') and small post. They still have the NS40ZLX MF ('C' polarity version @ 410 CCA). There are a few web listings of the NS40ZX around so i'll see if i can find one.

I find that the 370CCA NRMA 2383 batteries don't seem to last very long considering that most of the time the battery is isolated as the car only gets intermittent use. Any suggestions? Is there a good lithium option? Am I just imagining the short life or is 370CCA a bit small?

Mine has the factory cd/tape/radio system that's integrated into the fascia, so its different to yours (there's no DIN slots). Got any more info on that touch screen setup? I know a little about android having installed lineageOS on a motorola.

I'm thinking of getting https://sinergymotorsports.com.au/product/stereo-fascia-nissan-v35-series-1/ but at $535 i'm wondering if there are any other options. Also, is there anything else i need to know about removing the factory satnav/stereo unit?

FYI for info on the phillips/JIS/Posidriv/Torx/etc options check out https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives Looks like the 'Vessel' brand does JIS, anyone have other suggestions on brand (or shop)?

Android / iphone software is 'hobdrive'. The ebay link to the wifi obd2 dongle is now dead, so its a lucky dip to find one that will work. I'd go for wifi over bluetooth, and I have a weird memory that getting something with VW Golf support is more likely to work... or maybe i just made that up.

TIL (and had mind blown) that what look like phillips head screw/bolt heads are actually JIS, which is less 'spikey'. Am I the only one ignorant of this?

Lumleys said they wouldnt cover the car at all if it was ever tracked...

Looks like Famous are no longer an option. I'll get quotes from Shannons and Enthusiast, is there anyone else i should try? What are people getting for agreed value for a decent 32 GTR?

The Fenix one i got is a perfect fit. Sorry I don't have the part number. Have you tried asking them? No shroud - its on the Fenix in the car.

Is there a better way to report this?

Are you in Sydney? If so ill sell you a near new OEM Nissan one (3 months use) for $200. Otherwise Fenix do one for around $400 (can't remember where i got it). The OEM is about $800 new, so the Fenix is a much better option (its thicker). I was stuffing around with radiators until i found the problem was with the fan clutch

FWIW my M35 cranks hard even when it doesn't have enough electric power to start. First thing i'd do it try a jump start after double checking battery connections and charge. IIRC the battery should be 12.6 volts when fully charged.

Use synthetic fluid when you re-fill. Its got a higher boiling/flash point. Just got some new track tyres so I want to try luddenham.

Check for loose / leaky hoses, in particular the ones to the fuel pressure regulators. When they've hardened a bit with age the boost can blow them off. In mine, the fuel trims maxed out when i had leaks. If you can measure vac at idle, i'll check mine so you can compare.

Its time for a new set of tyres so i guess i'll try the AR1s. Ebay can deliver 265/35/18s for around $300each, but is there a shop in Sydney that will supply them for something close to that?