MrStabby

Everyone seem to have gone to 100 cell now, other than this for $374 catco http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/catco-high-flow-metal-race-catalytic-converter-762mm-suit-nissan-rnn14-wc34-p-1597.html what options are there in 200 cell?

My ABS motor runs all the time, and Mr Google says this is due to a failed relay (must fall safe, which is on). I *think* the relay back is on the back of the ABS unit facing the firewall. Is that correct, and if so, do i have to remove the ABS unit to get to the relay pack or can it be removed with the ABS in place?

I had the same symptoms and came the conclusion it was not a bleeding problem after re-filling the viscous clutch and installing a bigger radiator stopped the overheating. If i had realised the viscous clutch was stuffed first, I wouldn't have changed the radiator unless i could confirm I still had overheating. So check if you're viscous clutch is ok first (see the link in my sig). I'm still using the 6000cst fluid - never go around to trying the 3000.

After pulling the turbos on the rb26 i noticed that the dump to front pipe gaskets had been protruding into the flow, because the holes for the studs on the gasket are way too big and therefore cant be relied upon to hold the gasket in a good position. Any tricks to getting a good alignment? I there some way to "glue" the gasket onto the front pipe so it stays in the right position until its bolted up?

A 5 puc clutch like that will be very different to drive compared to a stock clutch. If you want something that feels like a stock clutch and is nice in traffic, but is good for up to 300kws, contact NPC for an organic. http://www.npcperformance.com.au/

Tao - how much to rebuild -7s? When i try to message you it says "hypergear cannot receive messages."

Oh so the balls take the thrust loading too? There is no side to side play, just in & out, so i guess that means the groove the balls run in has worn wider but not deeper.

Is the bleeder valve suggestion so that a pressure gauge can be connected? I thought all the R34-N1s/-7s were ball bearing, or are you referring to the earlier R32 nismos?

Ok - since its all apart now's the ideal time for that.

Could running -7s hard be a reason for excessive EMP? And maybe -9s with their more open turbines would be a more reliable option? EDIT: i guess hooking up a vac gauge on the inlet wont be too hard. I have stock air box and piping.

After the manifold to turbo gaskets failed (heat?) turbos were removed and apparently the thrust bearings are worn but otherwise the turbos are good. They've been on the car for maybe 50,000kms with quite a few track days, and i'm diligent with oil changes. So, would that be considered early failure? Do thrust bearings usually go first? If not, why would they fail early? 334kws on -7 is high, could the tune be too aggressive? (I can post it when i get the car back).

Yeah probably oil changes are the difference. Timing chain motors seem to be tougher on oil than others. I've found Valvoline Synpower 5W-40 was ready for changing at 5500km, but Mobil 1 0W-40 has been ok for continued use at 8800kms.

Its written on the black cover, but if you don't have it, its ABS | ABS | IGN SW, so yeah looks like Ignition is gone on yours. IGN is 40A and the two ABSs are 30A. I'd imagine you'd have to get a replacement from nissan. I've never been able to find out what the difference is between a fusible link and a regular fuse, and on my other car i've substituted a fuse where a fusible link was originally... it hasn't blown, but there must be some reason for the distinction.

Found a disconnected tube *slaps head*. Short term trims now ~12%

I've had idle issues and noticed that the fuel trims max out (ST +25%, LT+10%) at idle, but look normal at other times. My guess is that i've caused an air leak when I installed Scottys cooling mod, which requires the manifold removal. I did pull the injectors out, so there could be a leak in a bottom seal or two, and i reused the gaskets (which all looked good). Do you guys re-use the gaskets? Anyone know the bottom oring part numbers or the dimensions so i can get non-genuine ones?

Yes you're right its under the seat - Thanks. There's an opening both sides, and the drivers side has the fuel pump/filter. Replacement wasn't too painful.

Where do you access the filter/pump assembly from?

Haven't managed to source decent diag handset yet... New issue is that the ABS often runs constantly after the ignition is off/key removed. A bit of googling suggests this could be due to relay failure. Anyone know where the ABS relays are? Doesn't appear to be an ABS relay on the presentation near the battery. On the R32 GTR they're on the ABS unit itself, but unless they're really small i cant see them being on the M35 unit.

GTRs have a fuel pump control module, not sure about other models. This is what gives the pump low voltage at idle (by supplying ground via a resistor) then full voltage when required. Most take it out of the circuit and provide a simple earth, so the pump sees full voltage all the time, which doesn't seem to be an issue. I think theres a DIY on it - so search. The module is behind the drivers side rear seat side wall trim, but IIRC you can just put a new earth in the wiring in the boot.

Damn. Anyone in Sydney have the right Consult?

My ABS warning light comes on a few seconds after engine start. I've checked brake fluid level and fuses. What's next to troubleshoot this? I can read CEL codes but nothing ABS related comes up, however, i guess that may be just a limitation of the software.

From what I remember about materials science, with all other things being equal, there is a hardness vs toughness trade off. The guy in the video seems to think that hardness is everything, whereas I would have thought the hardest blocks would be the most prone to cracking.

The 11 in the number will refer to 1.1mm gap, so yeah that big gap would explain the break down under power.

Car runs fine until it gets some boost then I get what sounds like a high tension short. I've got LS2 coils and use the factory boots. Has worked fine in the past. I've replaced plugs, cleaned surfaces etc. Other than getting into a dark dyno room, is there some other way to find which coil is shorting? Maybe dust the area fingerprint style, then look for burnt dust?

If you're ok with soldering you could try pulling it apart and looking for dry joints to re-solder since that issue has been noticed on other stuff (eg AFMs and the digital clock). Probably easier to just get another tho.