MrStabby

Yeah probably oil changes are the difference. Timing chain motors seem to be tougher on oil than others. I've found Valvoline Synpower 5W-40 was ready for changing at 5500km, but Mobil 1 0W-40 has been ok for continued use at 8800kms.

Its written on the black cover, but if you don't have it, its ABS | ABS | IGN SW, so yeah looks like Ignition is gone on yours. IGN is 40A and the two ABSs are 30A. I'd imagine you'd have to get a replacement from nissan. I've never been able to find out what the difference is between a fusible link and a regular fuse, and on my other car i've substituted a fuse where a fusible link was originally... it hasn't blown, but there must be some reason for the distinction.

Found a disconnected tube *slaps head*. Short term trims now ~12%

I've had idle issues and noticed that the fuel trims max out (ST +25%, LT+10%) at idle, but look normal at other times. My guess is that i've caused an air leak when I installed Scottys cooling mod, which requires the manifold removal. I did pull the injectors out, so there could be a leak in a bottom seal or two, and i reused the gaskets (which all looked good). Do you guys re-use the gaskets? Anyone know the bottom oring part numbers or the dimensions so i can get non-genuine ones?

Yes you're right its under the seat - Thanks. There's an opening both sides, and the drivers side has the fuel pump/filter. Replacement wasn't too painful.

Where do you access the filter/pump assembly from?

Haven't managed to source decent diag handset yet... New issue is that the ABS often runs constantly after the ignition is off/key removed. A bit of googling suggests this could be due to relay failure. Anyone know where the ABS relays are? Doesn't appear to be an ABS relay on the presentation near the battery. On the R32 GTR they're on the ABS unit itself, but unless they're really small i cant see them being on the M35 unit.

GTRs have a fuel pump control module, not sure about other models. This is what gives the pump low voltage at idle (by supplying ground via a resistor) then full voltage when required. Most take it out of the circuit and provide a simple earth, so the pump sees full voltage all the time, which doesn't seem to be an issue. I think theres a DIY on it - so search. The module is behind the drivers side rear seat side wall trim, but IIRC you can just put a new earth in the wiring in the boot.

Damn. Anyone in Sydney have the right Consult?

My ABS warning light comes on a few seconds after engine start. I've checked brake fluid level and fuses. What's next to troubleshoot this? I can read CEL codes but nothing ABS related comes up, however, i guess that may be just a limitation of the software.

From what I remember about materials science, with all other things being equal, there is a hardness vs toughness trade off. The guy in the video seems to think that hardness is everything, whereas I would have thought the hardest blocks would be the most prone to cracking.

The 11 in the number will refer to 1.1mm gap, so yeah that big gap would explain the break down under power.

Car runs fine until it gets some boost then I get what sounds like a high tension short. I've got LS2 coils and use the factory boots. Has worked fine in the past. I've replaced plugs, cleaned surfaces etc. Other than getting into a dark dyno room, is there some other way to find which coil is shorting? Maybe dust the area fingerprint style, then look for burnt dust?

If you're ok with soldering you could try pulling it apart and looking for dry joints to re-solder since that issue has been noticed on other stuff (eg AFMs and the digital clock). Probably easier to just get another tho.

Only problem with supplying parts yourself is if something goes wrong, its messy. Yeah its pretty hard to go wrong with bushes but I have had some lower control arm bushes fail on me many years ago (what were the light blue ones? IIRC the company went bust).

Due to the geometry of the arms, the lower the car, the more camber you get. Obviously the factory adjustment range suits the factory height but is often too little if the car is lowered much. Your aligner probably pulled the rears as straight as they could, but if you find the rears wear too much on the inside for your liking, you'll probably need to add adjustable bushes or arms to get more adjustment.

That AP bottle shape/profile is exactly the same as the Motul bottle. The fluids may come from the same factory and just get an AP or Motul cap colour and label.

Well that's not cool. What the factory clearance? On page EN-96 of the shop manual, it says "Measurement position 5 is the figure obtained by subtracting the housing flange outside diameter from the the inner gear inside diameter" and shows a micrometer being used on the inside of the inner gear. If "housing flange" is some weird engrish for the crank mating area, then the clearance is 0.045-0.091 mm (0.0018-0.0036 in)...

Add 15ml of engine oil to 60psi cylinder and try again. If psi goes up, then its piston/ring of not its head/valve.

I dont know anything about engine building, but if the reimax gear is made from a different material to the N1 gear, then it could have a different co-efficient of thermal expansion and therefore require a different clearance. That's just theory tho - I have no intuition on whether its a likely explanation in this case. Let us know when they get back to you.

Agree. Went from 200 to 100 cell and fumes noticeably worse. May eventually go back to 200 cell.

Answering my own question - i got it out by removing the fan, shroud, belt and PS reservoir to pump tube. Part number appears to be 23100-AM610 (best guess based on the numbers out there and what's still readable). Searching ebay there's none locally but plenty in the US starting around $345 delivered. I'll see if my local guy can rebuild.

Solid center clutches are much tougher on the gearbox than sprung center clutches. At the SAU NSW tech night at Award Diff and Gearbox, Terry said the the two biggest problems for gearboxes is solid center clutches and owner abuse... So yeah, swap to a sprung center, but you're at the power level where people have problems with 3rd.

I can jump start but there's only 11v when running so looks like the alternator's dead. It pretty tight in there - should i take the radiator out to get to it? Or do i need to take the oil filter+heat exchanger and sway bar off?

Ah. I've already replaced the thermostat, and at this stage I CBF taking it off again.Guess i'll keep going for a while more.