MrStabby

Wiring diag - maybe the one you already have

You could try the SAU traders to see if any of them sell them, or just google. You dont need to change anything else when you get one. Lightweight pulleys? A wank unless you're trying to get the last 10 10ths in a race situation Lightweight harmonic balancer? Not sure if that's even a thing. The weight along with the stiffness of the rubber will be tuned to dampen the vibrations most effectively, so it if is a thing there may be the significant downside of not protecting your motor as well. Slow and heavy? I fear you might expect something from the lightened flywheel it cannot deliver. Also, are you aware of, and willing to accept, the downside of a lighter flywheel? I went for a lightened (5.5kg) one when i got rid of the Giken twin plate monster. If I had a stock flywheel i would have just used that (10kgs FWIW). Suggest you spend your money elsewhere, as it will probably be a better investment. If you really must have a lightened flywheel get it next time the clutch gets replaced.

I'll take the AFMs - where are you?

Looks like GTR bar with the nismo vents (the holes/ducts either side of where the number plate goes) so you'll need the corresponding holes in the reo so they can slide inside (ooh-eer!). The standard GTR reo doesnt have any holes so you have to cut them in. Dunno if the gtst reo is the same as the gtr one...

Heating up when stationary point to the fan. Is the fan clutch tired? Could be you had two problems and you've only fixed one.

Check the temperature of the top and bottom hoses. If the top is hot and the bottom is not then the radiator needs a clean, which will probably cost ~$150.

Measure the resistance of the magnetic clutch. Should be around 3.5 ohms. If it's much less then there's a short.

Actually, a single topic with a first post of just links would work well enough and be zero setup cost. Downside would be the reliance on a single person, assuming you cant delegate write access to a group. The style of your "list of members tutorials" thread is pretty much what I was thinking, so I guess a new thread should exclude anything DIY since that's done. Let me know if i should kick something off in the Tutorials / DIY / FAQ section to start it, and you could sticky it if you think it shows promise.

Yeah i reckon give read/write to everyone or nearly everyone so the burden is spread.

A directory of the best info on the site would be useful, and this could be built on a wiki maintained by members. eg i found this list of link useful when i owned a 928; http://www.nichols.nu/tips.htm

Agree with a lot of the above, eg; Mandatory tagging (or maybe a drop down list to select a category like the forum categories, eg Forced Induction/Naturally Aspirated/Suspension, braking, tyres etc). I'm ok with traders in the other sections, but with a weekly limit on the number of new threads so it doesnt get too spammy. A few more admins to keep things clean and useful (eg no useless subjects like "stuff to sell"). Agree that price should be mandatory.

Obviously you just topped it up, but how old is the fluid? If unknown or old, replace it all with a full synth ATF as it will handle higher temp better.

Nice write up. Agree that getting the housing on cleanly is a bitch. By the look of your photos i'd say the RB26 is even worse. The idea of using headless bolts as locators is a good one. If I ever have to do this again i might just replace the bolts with studs.

Nulon synthetic (compatible with nissan C/D/J/K, ~$16.60perL) or Valvoline synthetic (compatible with nissan D/J/K, ~$10perL) If the ATF stinks then its in very bad condition. Some suggest when its like that its dangerous to change it all at once. So you could dump whatevers in the sump (on the M35 this is about 4 of the 10 liters) then drive around for a few thousand kms then that over a few more times. EDIT: Transmax Z is usually more expensive and has less Nissan certs.

You can use aerostart/start ya bastard type stuff to help find leaks - but its flammable so be careful around a hot motor. The engine should flare when you spray it near the leak.

I've used ALS Oilcheck or whatever they're called now. You can probably find my thread in the Wagoneers (nee Stagea) section. UOA tells you more about how the oil is performing than the condition of the engine. Compression and leakdown tests are what you want for engine condition. Then use the UOA to determine if the oil is protecting the motor ok for the change interval. You can tweak the change interval to suit the oil you use so you dont change it too early or late.

I remember my disappointment going from Fed RSRs to R888s. Was a fair time between track days, but I couldnt really tell much difference. Where do the Kumho V70s fit in that list?

It looks like i have a power steering leak out the drivers side tie rod boot. The outer end of the boot is not fixed on the tie rod - looks like there's some damage to the boot and whatever was holding it on the tie rod is gone. The passenger side tie rod boot is intact but might be leaking a bit too. I assume the rack needs to come out and be re-co'd, but i'm looking through the service manual to confirm. In the troubleshooting flowchart on page CH-102, the passenger side boot is labelled 1 and the drivers side boot is labelled 6. If i follow the flowchart through; Determine oil leak location -> Part 1 (boots) -> Check boot for bulging -> No bulging -> Check boot for slipping or cuts -> Boots are cut (there is an air leak inside) -> Check for leaks in parts 1 and 6 -> there is an oil leak -> 1 Dafuq? That just said there's an oil leak in 1 so there's an oil leak in 1.... Anyway what the relevance of bulging boots? What does it mean if "boots make slipping, crunching sound" (from another branch of the flowchart).

Agree that testing with the same car and driver is the best evidence. Not sure why you think his cold pressure is a big deal, just play with it and see what works. Will be different on different cars anyway.

Red stuff are probably fine, they're just not suited to your use case. Yellows are the next step up for EBC, but to me they seem about the same as the crossover QFM A1RMs, so still not a track pad. Last time i checked the yellows were AU$308, A1RMs were AU$180, so EBC are poor value.

Pretty sure track guys run stock rears with ~350mm fronts, so don't upgrade the rears until you're running something seriously big up front. If they're not pretty enough paint the callipers...With grippy tyres the rear gets unloaded more than with street tyres. Failure modes are: pads overheat or fluid boils. Can you describe in more detail what you mean by "soften up". EBC reds are a crossover pad, so almost certainly wont cut it at the track. What's the boiling point of the brake fluid? Dot 4 spec is only 230 degrees. Nulon xtreme will do 280, then Motuls to 320+. Did you do a full flush or just a bleed? tl:dr pads are too conservative, if the fluid is anything less than 280 then swap it for nulon xtreme (since its cheap) and go from there.