MrStabby

$308 for 255 17s. Happy with them.

Tune is also important as it effect exhaust temperature. So with old ceramic turbos its probably best to run a little richer that you otherwise might, to put less heat stress on the turbos. The factory rebuild period for the turbos is 100,000kms, and i'm sure that avoiding this maintenance is part of the problem with them letting go. FWIW i'm running 13.5psi at 270kw, but while my midrange mixtures are 11.8, my high ends 12.2, so i'll get that brought down to 11.8 (and loose a little power) before i give the car any serious right foot encouragement.

Narrowbands are basically a binary device. They see mixtures as simply lean or rich - there' no useable "its correct" value. The ECU then goes through a constant cycle of lean up the mixture until the narrowband says 'lean' then richening it up until the narrowband says 'rich' over and over again. You can see this if you watch the narrowbands output in via consult.

Pretty sure you cant just use an adapter plug, as the protocol on the wire will be different. Also, you cant use wideband for closed loop with the factory computer so you wont be able to read it from there anyway....

The sump and oil cooler run the same oil - not sure why you've made a distinction between them. We're talking about RB26 here, maybe RB25 is more sensitive to high oil level. Might be worth finding a good level on the dipstick (eg the bottom of the top 'bump') if 1 litre is too much.

+1. But with high cornering/braking forces, i'd also add high revs. For 250-280kw you should be fine if the tune is conservative.

That's right. If you don't do the other oil control mods an aftermarket pump will make the problem worse. Aftermarket pumps flow more and therefore can empty the sump more quickly. +1 for overfill of 1 litre, of a good fully synthetic oil at the correct operating temperature (so you'll probably need a cooler). If you're going to aftermarket pump, crank collar, and the oil control mods you might as well just do a full rebuild.

Its only the lead in pre-unleaded petrol that has any lubricating qualities. LPG is actually better for your motor. Petrol vapor contaminates the oil on the cylinder walls in petrol engines, marginally reducing its quality and requiring you to change it more often to offset the effect. Obviously no such effect with LPG. Unleaded was introduced in 1986, so all engines from that point on have hardened valve seats to cope with unleaded, and therefore will also cope with LPG. Since other countries were running unleaded before Australia some earlier engines also have hardened seats. The interesting thing with this conversion is that there is not the typical loss of power associated with an LPG conversion.

Prefer good bearing but i will replace if required.

Happy dyno? Can you post up your dyno sheets (boost and AFRs sheets if u have them).

170-175 kw stock. Good exhaust should get you to 200.

He said "while still being responsive with minimal turbo lag" so it sounds like he's more interested in response that turbo headroom.

Abs, IIRC RaceBrakes would do them for $308, but direct from EBC was ~$280. To give you a rough start on the lineup; Greens are sort of like DS2000 Reds are sort of like DS2500 Yellows are sort of like DS3000 I used Greens in my Porsche 928 ~4 years ago and they worked ok at the track (only 1:18s at wakie with auto trans doing some braking duty, but same weight as GTR) . but i've heard others trash Reds in quicktime with track work. Maybe the compounds have improved over the years.

blitzxtr & shepo - can you confirm you're not confusing the 595 with 595RS? I used the 595 (or 595SS as they were known then) and they were just average on the track. The 595RS are about double the price of the 595 but much better on the track. I run the Falken RT-615s which are similar to the 595RS.

IIRC pad mating faces are identical.

I just did all the drivers side hoses on my car. Its a plenum off job which is no fun at all.... took me days. Duncan reported that JustJap have the 32 GTR silicon kits even tho they're not advertised on the website. Give them a call. If you still want the Nissan part numbers let me know, i haven't thrown out the parts bags yet.

I use the standard master, pedal feels great. Much firmer than with the stock calipers. Brake bias seems ok on the street with G4 330s at the front and standards at the back, but i havent tried it at the track.

The yellows i have are DP4005 - AP caliper CP3894D51 (18mm). The 18 is of course the thickness. When i trial fitted them to work out how much to grind off the feet, they seemed like they might be a bit thick. They're about 2/3s the price of the JJ racing pads. Greens are DP2005, reds are DP3005.

I'm not 100% sure the pads i have will fit. I had to trim the backing plate "feet" so it didnt overhang the rotor, and they might be a little too wide. Does anyone have a new G4 pad they can measure for width? IIRC the ones i have are 16mm

Fair enough. Heasmans it is....

Good point. The supplied pads are the Street pads, so you wouldnt expect them to work at the track, and they dont. JustJap sell "street", "sports" and "track". The Tracks are a bit of a ripoff at $440 a set (a while back) but reportedly work well. I will be trying EBC yellows next time i hit the track, using the street pads ATM. I like my 330 G4s...

If your car has a subframe that all the rear suspension arms bolt onto, the rear strut brace does nothing as the subframe provides excellent rigidity. If the upper arms bolt onto the body (like in the front) then it would be worthwhile.

Are you talking about removing the ball joints at the end of the alignment rods from the hub? If so you need a puller like this; Those ball joints are called tie rod ends. The alignment rods are tie rods.

Yellow Lambo Countach on King St Newtown yesterday. They still look awesome after all this time. Man those rear tyres are PHAT!