MrStabby

FYI Mark from Hills Motorsport quoted me just under $2000 to supply and fit a low km R33 GTR box, filled with Redline. Not sure if it was series 3 or not.

rebuild (for me) was; 1. get pistons out (i did this using the brake pedal and gradually putting thinner and thinner shims in where the pads were, as a way of getting all pistons out evenly most of the way) then removed calipers pulled them out the last bit with pliers 2. Remove old seals from pistons 3. Clean up any scoring on the piston with 1200 wet n dry, thoroughly clean everything 4. Put new seals on, wetted with brake fluid 5. Re-install pistons with pistons and inside of caliper wetted with brake fluid 6. Install dust seals 7. Install caliper + bleed If you're handy its a piece of piss

+1 This is the most likely option. You might be able to get the piston moving, but you really should rebuild the caliper. Its pretty easy to do.Try racebrakes for a seal kit.

Good to hear. Get well soon Pauleh.

Wayne failz at teh interwebz? Doesn't he know we're waiting and email is quicker?

OMFG that's huge! Is there a bit more work on the tune to come? ie AFRs?

I'd guess electrical. Might be worth getting someone with CONSULT to check if there's any errors on the ECU. Probably less likely to be one of the coils/plugs as you would expect it to run rough if that was the prob, not die completely.

1. Nothing especially 2. I've not heard of them. Some guy here reckons that it can only be tuned in the US, and some other guy here reckons they're pre-set and not tuneable. 3. Could be lots of things - try searching 4. Run it on a dyno

On 32 GTR there's one in the boot, fairly close to the latch. You probably know this, but to test a relay just connect 12V the two pins that are shown as connected with a coil of wire (there's a diagram on the outside). Not sure if your car has it, but there is a fuel pump control module that i *think* performs earth switching and switches a soft earth at idle, so there's less voltage at the pump when full voltage is required. These modules tend to die. On my car its behind the wall trim drivers side rear seat.

I take it you didn't use new hoses when the new motor went in?? I had a hose go back there. Pulled the plenum off and replaced these; 21307-05U02, 14055-05U11, 21307-05U04, 14055-05U01, 14055-05U02 Water/heater: 92410-05U00, 92402-05U00, 92401-05U00 BTW - i met you at the suspension tech day at Heasmans ages ago

Do you have a fan shroud? If not, you need one.

FWIW my stock turbos + EBC make 13 psi by 3300rpm, but has Nistune. Saying "full boost" without quoting the boost level is meaningless because the higher boost the longer it will take to get there... but yeah 10psi by 4500 is no good. I'd try a set of stock actuators first.

Slide was selling super streets (jap spec? but street jap spec) for $1589 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Te...St-t193401.html Price has probably changed now but its probably worth asking. Check out the other traders as well.

If we're still talking absolute then its 30 in/hg. google "kpa in/hg conversion" and hit "i'm feeling lucky"...(duh) If you're talking gauge, then 0 is 0 in any unit....

I'm in Newtown, i'm not an expert but would take a look if you like. PM me. Hahn Automotive are supposed to be ok (Botany Rd Alexandria). I got them to make up a replacement air con hose as the pirtek dude said he couldnt do it (i was replacing the leaking powersteer hose and thought i'd do the air con hose at the same time as it was blistered). Do you know about the powersteering bleeding proceedure where you rotate the wheel back and forth? Cant remember the exact details but i could dig it up (or maybe a search here will find it). BTW make sure its not something silly like the hose rubbing on a pulley. BTDT.

A Metal Cat with the 200 cell insides is not junk by any means. This one doesnt come with flanges tho, so add the cost of getting them welded on. Other vendors sell them with flanges ready to bolt up. They also claim to me emissions legal - http://www.metalcat.com.au/

What brand is the manifold? Cracking on the weld is common for non-name stuff. It looks very thin... So are you going to replace it or try to get it welded up and hope it hangs together? The mounting face looks thick so it probably true, but check it anyway. Re: the tuner going ahead and tuning something like that, yeah i have to agree with you guys now. He should have aborted the tune and called. Take it somewhere else next time.

The non-glycol surfectant based coolants are supposed to cool better, but dont have anti-freeze and can stain paint. I dont supposed you'll be too worried about the anti-freeze.......Redline Water Wetter is one, and I think Penrite SIN racing coolant is another

ok i'm a noob, but its a bit hard to put crap on the tuner at this stage, after all you cant polish a turd. The car appears to have serious problems, ie - "the manifold gasket is leaking badly" (is he right or do you dispute this?) - the boost response is shocking Perhaps the manifold is leaking so badly that the turbo cant spool properly, and the boost controller has nothing to work with? AFAIK you cant tune out a leaking manifold.... Here's what working boost control looks like;

I liked Metal Skin, but a do have a soft spot for Chargers...

http://www.jaftan.com.au/skyline/oil/ I heard that shockproof may make LSDs a bit shuddery, which i guess would be like running a slightly tighter LSD??? Is R33 LSD at the front? If so make sure you use a compatible oil. If you not sure about anything give Redline a call.

It goes: head -> exhaust manifold -> turbo -> dump pipe -> front pipe -> cat -> "cat back"

Re: the Teins; - do you know if the height adjusters move ok - what's the spring rate (let me know the dimensions and I can work it out if you dont know) And: are you in Sydney?

DBA4000 + track = FAIL. There's a thread about it, so read that before you consider buying them. The dumbass slot design appears to be the culprit.