MrStabby

If you're with the car, use some callipers to measure the lobe hight and base circle, then subtract the second from the first. 7.8mm is standard for 25s according to a recent thread.

There's a report number, name and date are listed on the rego. A bit of googling has found a Queensland vehicle engineer of the same name....

Cef - what stuff did you reuse? I'm going to renew all the rubber pipes and banjo washers, but the metal gaskets look good so i'm thinking of just reusing them. Also, there were no washers on the turbo to manifold, and turbo to dump bolt (some of the dump bolts were loose). Do i need to use anything special here because of the heat or will a regular spring washer do?

So 20,000+ rpm is important, but what about variable speed? It looks like i need to get a pro one to get variable speed and its going to be triple the price... Also, are the carbides ok for stainless as well as cast iron? tnx

How about Makita GD0600 HERE? Some say that a dremel is underpowered for this work, and this one is the right price for something that wont get used much at $137. BUT a dremel is more useful for other things...

Since i've got manifold/turbo/dump/front pipe off, i want to clean up the insides to remove casting marks/rough welds etc, and maybe a little bit of shaping on the manifold. I'm thinking an electric die grinder is the tool for the job. I dont want anything air powered - no space for a compressor. Any suggestions on make/model or should i use something else?

Oh ok sorry about that. The second set of manifolds i have appear identical.

Exhaust manifold is the bit that connects the head to the turbo.... Re: dumps, the xforce ones i have are different. You have to hold them together to notice because they look so similar, but one is bent around more tightly than the other, and the wastegate pipe joins the main pipe in a slightly different location. There would be about and inch difference in the location of the front pipe flange, so yeah its looks like you have them on backwards. You're doing better than me - i still cant get the effing front manifold off. I'm going to try moving the power steering pump - is that what you did?

Thats it, but the standard ECU wont work if you've changed the injectors, MAF, fuel pressure....

The spring sits on height adjustment rings just like any other adjustable coilover. Wind them down to lower it, using a C spanner. Easy. Just remember; - you'll need to get it aligned again if you change the height - if you want to do it properly you should get it corner weighted - if you lower it too much you'll have to get aftermarket adjustable bushed/arms to be able get the alignment right - if you lower it too much it will handle like crap

A short inside the coil causing high current and therefore heat? Ie manufacturing imperfection, so return it if its still under warrantee.

Dude, just check the castrol website for this soft of info..... Off the top of my head (could be wrong, so double check), synTRANS is recommended for TRANSmissions, and syntrax is recommended for diffs. Generally GL4s are better for transmissions and GL5s are better for diffs, just make sure you get something that's suitable for LSD if you have one. If your gearbox is getting tired, many here have found that Redline lightweight shockproof has helped - it aint cheap tho.

Dunno about that plate... I just swapped an old set of teins for some newer ones. Each unit was self contained, with nothing between the top of the coilover and the mounting point on the car body. Can you take some pictures?

Ok...so lets bring it all together; - There is consensus that its detonation from excessive timing - The reason the engine died is that the detonation was not detected, and tuning continued through it -> THEREFORE to avoid another rebuild you MUST get functional knock detection going before you run the next engine - Your tuner is using his knowledge from other motors which clearly does not apply in this case. So either you need to find an RB expert, or find some other way to address the risk of continuing to use this tuner. The knock detection will address some of that risk. - The question of Nissan CAS with aftermarket ECU compatibility has been raised, so perhaps it would be worth trying Nistune with a standard ECU (difficult on R33 tho). You could then verify that there is no knock with factory maps (which would be a nice sanity check + starting point), and eliminate the potential compatibility issue. - The readings you have for timing may be false, or the ideas you have about what is the right timing are false, or you may be calculating/measuring static compression incorrectly; in particular, Fineline suggested that static compression of 9.0 is too much and that you should go back to 8.5. blind_elk's RB25 with low boost runs 8 degrees of timing, you were running 16 (with the outstanding question of whether this is total or the increase over static). When nothing makes sense, it means that something you think you KNOW is WRONG. Good luck.

Nice resurrection... Needle roller for spigot = FAIL, literally. (Second hand info from a mechanic who has seen multiple failures on RBs. Dont know if the failure was due to running dry or inability to handle the load or some other reason). Use a conventional bush bearing like Nissan chose. IIRC they're sintered, so you need to fill them with grease.

Old/worn gearbox = lightweight shockproof ("smurfs blood", blue) Good gearbox = MT90 (yellow)

So is that damage due to just two dyno runs? ie you were running it in on the dyno? How did it sound? With that much damage i imagine it would have been rattling its head off with detonation, but could you hear that? Have you double checked static compression? (IIRC the other thread states 8.5) Has your builder/tuner done a lot of RBs?

link for GTR -9s should be http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...9R_707160_9.htm The bollocksed up naming has tripped you up - it mentions the -9s are 330hp in the blurb, but 360hp under "powershift". Pretty sure the 330 is the right number.

Not sure if your car has one, but it could be the fuel pump contol module. On a 32 GTR they're behind the trim, right hand side of the rear seat.

Tuning is always done with feedback off, for clarity. You tuner probably just forgot to turn it back on when he finished...You definatly dont need a re-tune. Good find - it will be interesting to see what you get on the next tank!

Absolute snake oil bullshit. I'm really surprised that they dont get done for false advertising. The only result of fitting will be a slight reduction in power due to the introduction of a restriction in the intake path.

Its always recommended to machine it smooth again, but if the surface is in good condition i wouldnt bother (doesnt mean you shouldnt) because getting the flywheel off is a bitch, and then you've got to drop the flywheel off blah blah..... It would be a lot harder to make a warrantee claim if you dont have a reciept for the skimming tho....

Which bolts are you talking about? Flywheel to crank or pressure plate to flywheel? The flywheel to crank bolts are pretty chunky, so there's less chance that some retard has damaged them by torquing them up too much. The pressure plate to flywheel bolts on the other hand..... Also, - make sure that the dowels are in place before you re-fit the pressure plate - use engine oil on the threads of the flywheel to crank bolts (the torque spec assumes you have done this) - new or machined flywheel is not going to make any difference about re-using the bolts AFAIK - you should really check the workshop manual to see if the bolts are re-useable... i re-used mine because i didnt even think about whether they should be replaced or not

Narrowband sensors only meaningful readings are "rich" or "lean", if you want to know the mixture they cant help other than to say if the mixture is less or more than 14.7:1.

Yeah bushes only. I checked out the isc website - the arms he has are rose jointed, and AFAIK that means; - excellent control - increased NVH - shorter life (ie years instead of decades you'd get with bushes, also there doesnt appear to be any dust covers which would help) - illegal for street use If you're concerned about rose joint life, use search - its been discussed here before. If you're concerned about the legality ask Ryan directly to provide proof they're street legal - i could be wrong (and am interested to know for sure)