MrStabby

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+1 for same thing all round on GTRs. If the current rims are all 17x9, i'd just keep them and get the tyres sorted. Run the 255 R1Rs on 9in rims both ends, get your ride height set to 355 front and 345 rear, car aligned and corner weighted. Of course fix anything that's not up to scratch already, and that will probably include adjustable bushes or arms to get the alignment right. If you've got understeer make the rear sway bar stiffer.

I assume that an EBC that requires a training run will be able to better control boost as it will be able to pre-calculate what deltas it needs to add the base system rather than having to respond in realtime, and therefore be reactive. Is this true or are all contemporary EBCs just reactive because its good enough?

The boost seems to fall away a bit from 22psi down to about 18.5, so it would be nice to stop that. I'd guess its due to the restrictive stock dumps, which may also make the boost build a bit lazier than it could with a better setup. A bit of a shame you didnt change them when you did the turbos, but its only money right? If your AFMs are maxing out its safer to get nismos rather than tune past it. IIRC they usually hit about 300 or just a bit less before they read the max 5.1volts.

FWIW i had 10 front 8.5 rear and they sucked. Driving instructor told me the rear in particular was too stiff. (full weight street GTR, Falken RT-615 tyres). With fat semi slicks and a super smooth track you might just get away with 10 front 8 rear, but if I were you i'd ask what rates they use in the motorsport forum. I now have 8.2 front and 6.4 rear and they work FAR better on the track and street - still very firm tho. These came off a lightened, full slicked, 400+kw car and were his oran park setup.

Did you get the UAS air deflectors? Exy for the GTR ones, needs some hacking to get the right clearance, but useful.

You're being naive. Just because that is what they are telling you doesnt mean that its true. They cant avoid the protections available under the law just because they said you have a 1 month warrantee. Contact your state department of Fair Trading if you want these shitheads to be held accountable. The Fair Trading laws are quite strict.

Good find, and its supported by Nistune software. Any good places locally to get the bosch sensor from?

I tried DS2500 and DS3000 on the sumitomos, and the pedal felt about the same (and the lines are braided). I've used the "street" G4 pads and EBC yellows with the G4s and they both felt about the same and a lot better. I bleed regularly, so i dont think there would have been much difference there, tho it is possible. Same fluid both times. The caliper just seems more rigid in the G4, but that could be my imagination. When i say pedal feel i'm not talking about how much pressure it takes to cause braking (which will be dependent on pad mu) but how the far the pedal falls when under force, so maybe i'm using the wrong term? Not true, the pad is almost identical to AP pads, just need a little bit of grinding of the backing plate to make it sit well. Mine were the fronts and i thought from memory that the fronts were the issue. A read of the thread will confirm/deny. The fact that they all failed in the same manner along a slot that uses an orientation that's unique to DBA is a fairly strong indication that the design is flawed.

+1. Fast moving air has a lot of momentum. Also remember that the boost will spike on the turbo side of the throttle, not the engine side so the engine wont see it and you have no problem. If it spikes in gear then different story.

Do a search - the G4 kit has been discussed a lot (i like it a lot for the money). The G4 and D2 kits appear to come off the same production line. I went from the Sumitomo GTR caliper with adapter and 324mm rotor to the G4 330mm kit and the pedal feel was a lot better. The pad is a fair bit bigger as well. FWIW The 32 GTR rotors are 296x32 the 33 GTR rotors are 324x30 and the G4s are 330x32. Also the DBA4000s have failed for many on the track (search for it) so avoid them unless they've fixed the slot design.

Is 280 a typo? Because that's where the GTR injectors run out of steam. Once you know what power figure you're aiming for (which is what we need to know to provide useful feedback) do a search, as sizing has been covered a lot...

Step 1: Good high temperature pads and fluid (FWIW i'm using EBC yellows and Motul 600) Step 2: Get some rotor/caliper cooling/ducting at the front And only if that doesnt get you where you need to be; Step 3: Upgrade the fronts. Probably a wank if you're using street tyres, but i love the pedal feel with the G4 330mm kit (which was $2000). Needs 17in rims. Braided lines and master cylinder stopper will improve pedal feel, but not help you stop any sooner.

Can you post a photo of the location the bearing came from?

Oh that should be "look at the turbo or exhaust, exhaust first. Exhaust is easy you just drop it at the front pipe to cat connection and take another run. If the boost holds then you need a better exhaust, if the boost still drops you need a bigger turbo."

Jim is one of the best tuners in Australia. Believe what he says over anything you read on an internet forum The coils breaking down will mean the engine cant run properly so all bets are off - power, boost, everything. There's no way to tune properly in that circumstance. Incomplete combustion mean less exhaust pressure, so compromise the turbos ability to produce boost. You're boost control setup is fine. Give Jim another crack. If the boost still drops off then you'll have to look at the turbo.

I'm only just starting to learn about boost control as i'm having problems of my own, but; - If the exhaust pressure is opening the wastegate, doesnt that mean the actuator spring is too weak? I would have assume that the spring would be strong enough to hold against considerable wastegate pressure, as the you really want the actuator diaphragm to be the primary force against the spring, since the pressure against the diaphragm is something you can control via the boost controller.

Yes. Fix the apparently broken stuff (as there is no downside to that) before you look at changing the turbo, which will reduce responsiveness. Trying to tune with dodgy coils or boost control is going to waste your money. Ask your tuner if he thinks that your boost control is adequate (tho he might not be able to tell for sure until he runs it with the fixed coils). Since Nismoid reckons the control is bad it might be worth upgrading that before you go for the tune, so you wont have another wasted trip. What are you using for control now?

Are you talking about the input shaft bearing? For 32 GTR its "Bearing-Main Drive" 32203-C8011 superseded by 32203-C8015. Then then again i dont really know how to drive FAST properly....

Yep. IIRC dB is a logarithmic scale, and +3 dB = twice the volume.

The stitching is real, but it doesn't really look like leather underneath. Does anyone know? The black paint/dye is peeled in a number of places and i want to fix it up.

One other thing to check (might as well since its so easy) is the hat to rotor bolt torque. I had some weird brake vibrations that were linked to this. Torqued up and locktited and its all good now.