MrStabby

I was told by an exhaust shop not to wrap my stainless dumps as it would make them become more brittle and prone to cracking

Stoptech agree with you README

My guess is that they're more likely to break under shock loading, because there's no part capable of dissipating energy like the bush in the standard setup. Also the bush means that the shock will be dissipated over a longer period of time which lessens the magnitude (because it deforms). That said, most people find they wear out..... Another potential concern is legality....

The consult plug is grey about 10mm x 40mm. There's no cable - you have to buy one.

I got faster spool when i changed stock cat for 200 cell metal cat. Ideally you want the ID of the cat flanges to the same ID as the exhaust flanges to keep it smooth. As stated you should be able to get a bolt in with the correctly oriented flanges. IIRC you can wind in a bit more timing when you free up the exhaust as there's less exhaust contamination. DECATs are for ppl who piss in the street and throw ciggie buts out the windows... dont me one of those ppl For turbo cars you want as little back pressure as possible after the turbine - it makes the turbo work better - think about what a turbine does and how it does it. Comparisons with NA cars are not useful.

That's for brake cooling, which you'll want to retain if you're doing track days.

Have you removed the thermostat? If not, do that, re-bleed and see how it goes. Water pumps wear out more than break so if its not leaking or making noise it unlikely to be the problem.

Your looking for a bolt with a 10mm head on the cylinder head. Its probably got a sticker near it. On RB26 its quite close to the fuel pressure reg. This is RB26 but its the nut above the gold sticker

You can take it out altogether - it will just take the motor a lot longer to warm up so no boosting until you've been driving for say 10 minutes. You can also try putting the heater on full to keep it cooler. As ali-t mentioned - did you open the coolant bleeder at the top of the motor to let the air out?

Since you're running rich, it indicates you've used too small a size or too small a latency value. Latency makes a big difference at idle and low throttle, size makes a difference everywhere. So, if idle is rich but WOT is good change the latency, if its rich everywhere change the size

Pull the coilpacks and look for arcing. They can be surprisingly intermittent. There's a DIY HERE

Redline will know - call them. I'd be very surprised if they tell you a gear oil is ok in place of ATF.

Stockers should be at a bar at more like 3000rpm - IF everything working properly. So either you dont have stockers or something is wrong with your car.

So I assume the decision to use nissan or aftermarket gears is mainly based on power level - right? If so, up to what power level are the stockers generally considered reliable? 350awkw?? Assuming 33GTRV's car is ~200awkw, surely aftermarket gears is a waste of money that level??

Correct, unless the old fuel pump was misbehaving, or the FPR is misbehaving.

Yeah but the BOV wont have a vacuum signal on the diaphragm so you would hope that the spring would keep it shut. Is the drift bov adjustable? Maybe it was always stuffed but did play up until it saw the higher boost you got after fixing the wastegate?

You might have more luck if you remove it from the car and use a vice so you can hold it securely. I found the flexing on the bushes at the end makes it hard to get a nicely focussed amount of force on those rings. If you're not already doing it, wind them down first as that should be slightly easier. Once they're moving put them back in the car and set how you want it.

Sleeve and sleeve. If you do ball bearings it will cost the same as new garretts. The highflow means there's less turbine wheel so less exhaust restriction, and yes slower spool. I was expecting spool to start later, but it started at the same rpm as stock, just ramped up more slowly. YMMV

There's some info on the Nistune "Type 2 board" forum for that setup - TPS is mentioned as a key difference but for some it doesnt appear to matter. My ignorant guess is the tune just requires a little more work on the throttle enrichment tables (which are the equivalent of a carby accelerator pump). This is something you could probably try yourself without much risk - just take a backup and save to disk first, so if it does all go to poo or you cant tell any difference you can simply restore Envy's tune.

If its going to be a streeter with <270-280kw (so you wont need injectors or AFMs) then you might as well just get steel wheels in the stockers, which is around 700-800 each IIRC. I've got highflows in mine which i bought off an SAUer, the receipt showed he spent $1800. I did the dumps at the same time and havent retuned or upped the boost yet, but they seem to start to spool at the same time as the stockers (~2000rpm), but they spool more slowly.

Nice work. I imagine you'll get a bunch of new customers. BTW, how's the business side of it going? Making any money yet?

That statement from AP is pretty clear. I know you can get uprated pivots for push setups. Presumably the stock pivot can be unreliable with the pressures provided by a heavy clutch.

+1. Drop the exhaust and give it another rip on the dyno Also, you'll get much better responses if your provide full details of your setup. Help us to help you. Edit: and post the dyno sheet(s)

IIRC 32 GTR, 33 GTR, 33 GTST and 34 GTT gearboxes have pretty much the same internals, with some minor revisions along the way (ie extra syncros on third in series 3 33 GTR). The 32 GTR spec is 4.1 liters of 75W-90 GL-4.

You'd be better off using something with a accelerometer in it than a stopwatch; ie gtech or iphone + <$20 software.