MrStabby

I have the seimens 550s. Mine came with a large single o-ring at the top, a couple of which leaked after a short while. When i pulled them to check they had torn. Replaced all six with the factory o rings pushed down to the bottom of the mounting area, and they have been perfect since.

It will be very stuff to move by hand, maybe too stiff. And the actuator pushes on it to open the WG, so you need to try to move it in the same direction. But yeah, its almost certainly not stuck open if you're using the stock dump, and if it was you probably wouldnt be able to move it by hand anyway......so keep looking for the leak. Are you sure your new boost nipple is airtight?

Are you saying that you suspect an intercooler pipe leak, but that an intercooler pipe leak wont stop the car building boost? Because it will - the boost will leak out! Are you getting black smoke out the back? If you have a boost leak it will run very rich and you'll get black smoke. Perhaps so rich that missfires/shudders. If its not a boost leak check that the wastegate isnt stuck open (you should be able to move the actuator rod with your hand, or just apply 10psi air pressure to it and watch it move). But i dont think your symptoms match a stuck wastegate.

Look from underneath, its just to the left of the front turbo support where it bolts onto the block.

These Getrags have non-metal synchros and use synthetic ATF instead of oil. Search here and you'll find the issues been covered a number of times.

http://gcg.com.au/Turbo/ViewProduct.aspx?PCategoryID=2 FYI GCG are now showing the -9s as 2860s not 2859s. Maybe common sense is making a comeback?

IIRC One hose is the vacuum signal to operate the valve, one is plumbed into the intake somewhere and the other will go to the petrol tank. You can get hit pretty hard for disconnecting emissions equipment, so if its a street car much better to just move it as suggested.

1. To present the greatest difference in pressure across the turbos' turbine (to make it work the best), you want to have zero backpressure after the turbine. Bigger is usually better, but you also want to limit changes in cross sectional area. 2. Split dumps should help when the wastegate is closed as well, due to their ability to limit turbulence just downstream of the turbo. Turbulence = backpressure. 3. Split dumps are much more sensitive to sizing than bellmouths. With Bellmouths you can pretty much bolt any dump to any turbo and it should work fine. With splits you need to take some care. ^^ that's all theory. Reality may be different.

Yeah true but I reckon fuel surge would be a fair bit worse with that sort of setup. I guess if you dont track it its not a problem.

The bosch is a lot cheaper but isn't a bolt in as it doesn't fit the cradle. Jap one should fit well.

Price indication; -7s which come with actuators = $2600 -9s $2740 + $280 for new actuators = $3020 20 year old actuators are not worth using as the springs are likely to have softened with all the heat cycles, and have softened differently so you'll get surging as they fight.

Say you were running 300kw, would the -9s produce that with a slightly lower temperature (due to the better compressor efficiency) than the -7s? Or are they only better when you're running them right at the peak?

Aren't the -9's the way to go now instead of -7's? (or are they more expensive?)

I have no idea where it is, so do i just spray along the whole length until i hear the idle lift? I think i have a can or aerostart somewhere which i assume is similar stuff.

EDIT: Hot side is not the right terminology - i mean post compressor Symptoms; - suddenly no boost after a track lap - stalling after throttle blip or pulling up at the lights No smoke so I assume that means its not a turbo (they're 5000km old rebuilds), so i'm looking for a leak. I've checked the four rubber pipes and they all look fine. I took off the two pipes in the engine bay to check them, they looked ok, replaced them but no change. So what now?

o2 sensor lines should be in those holders that you squeeze shut, which should keep them clear of hot bits. White/blue smoke is usually oil. Check the oil and coolant levels, then take it for a smooth run which should burn off anything spilled, then check levels again (obviously dont do the coolant until the engine is cool). If all is good keep an eagle eye on levels for a while. I did this recently and needed to nip up a banjo and drain mount which had slow leaks. IIRC old fuel looses knock resistance to an extent.

PM me if you need the manual - i have it in PDF. I also couldnt get it to train after a turbo change (but i do get P1 and P2), so i'm running the $22 special until i get another chance to look at it. Mine may have been damaged when the rear turbo went - if that's possible.

Since you will have setup the PFC to cope with the new injectors, the tune should be fine for driving between workshops (no boosting). If cold start/cold running is not ok then something is amiss (for example you didnt enter the correct latency when updating the PFC) You may even find its ok without a retune, but you need to verify that on the dyno first.

Or you could just try synthetic ATF which handles temperature better than regular fluid.

JDM 32 GTR seats are pretty small - my shoulders are wider than the seat so you can imagine how uncomfortable that is... First stop for me is a trip down to JustJap - they sell Bride copys there, but at least you can sit in them to get an idea on fit (so i've heard). http://justjap.com/store/home.php?cat=282

I'll be trying iPhone+Tomtom Cradle+Harrys Lap timer so there'll be no cheating on the timing! I can also get details corner speed etc so in theory i'll be able to tell if clean or dirty is faster, but i doubt i'm anywhere near good/consistent enough make that call...

Interestingly that's a federal government link....I didnt know we were getting national tech standards!

The o2 sensor should flick back and forth when its up to temp - that indicates it working (assuming the voltages are right, cant remember what they're supposed to be). Its the ECU is hunting for stochiometric mixture (which the factory narrowband o2 sensors cant read).

Heller how does that work with the ABS higher than the reservoir? I ended up shelling out for a hand pump to do mine after replacing the ABS.

Thanks everyone for your comments. Since there's a mixed response i'll try getting a little looser instead of staying dead clean and see how it goes next Saturday at Wakefiled.