MrStabby

Since you've got to do the turbos, you should do o2 sensors, and put some decent dumps on while you're at it. If the o2's are shagged it will cause poor fuel consumption, and IIRC the maintenance interval for them is 40,000kms... I've just replaced my turbos with some highflows and modified xforce dumps, also replaced the two hoses coming from the PS reservoir, so check them and also check the air con and high pressure PS hoses while you're in there. Replace anything not it top shape, because you really wont want to be going back in there anytime soon, its a bastard job. I would either go to ~270kw and keep the standard injectors and MAFs, or go 320kw with bigger injectors and Nismo MAFs. Turbos are Garret 2860 -7 or -9 or HKS GT-SS. You will also need aftermarket ECU and tune. You probably wont get the injectors and MAFs with your budget.

OMFG i hope that's a photochop...

SkyD & works - post up some photos

Dude did you see the QUOTE (Mattw_83 @ 15 Mar 2009, 12:12 PM) at the top? I wasnt answering your question... But - have you got the correct internal circlip on yours? It shouldn't be able to pop out. IIRC it holds down a nylon "cup" that the ball on the shifter sits in.

Will a VL gasket fit? If so, they should be easy to get.

It depends on how you drive. You can punish your gearbox with the standard shifter as well, its just that the sort shifter makes it easier to change gears more quickly. Lots of very fast changes will eventually take their toll. Dont drive like a dick and you'll be fine.

I think you're going OTT with all this gear oil changing. The factory drain interval for 32 GTR is 100,000 on mineral oil. Synth should last three times that..... Syntrax is quality stuff..... You could get your used oil analysed if you want some scientific corroboration of the above. Would cost less than a gearbox fill.

IIRC the push or pull clutch is determined by the bellhousing, and you can swap bellhousings between gearboxes. Push is a backwards step and can be unreliable with a strong pressure plate spring - i think the pivot can break. You should be able to find this with searching, my memory is shot.

If you're going to boil the thermostat; - of course if it doesnt open at all with boiling water its stuffed - just because it opens in boiling water doesnt necessarily mean its opening at the right temperature. So its best to have the a thermometer. Not sure what the opening temp will be, but i'd guess about 70, definitely less than 85. You could also just remove the thermostat and go for a drive, tho it will take much longer to get up to temperature, so dont thrash it early.

Its supposed to have some free play (more than you may imagine) - you're not going to know if its a problem unless you measure it and check the specs. My experience with ceramic turbine is that its black. The so called "knock" map on std nissan ECUs is also known as the "regular" map, is for regular (not premium) fuel. I *think* its designed to work on 95.

First ring the mechanic back and verify he was talking about the carbon (aka charcoal) canister. IIRC the canister will have two hoses connected - on for the valve (round thing on the top, receives a vacuum signal to actuate), and one that connects to the contents of the canister (which holds fuel vapour). Just pinch them both off and go for a drive - that will tell you if there's a problem or not. I'd say if there is a problem it would be similar to any other sort of vacuum (and therefore boost) leak. The canister is right next to the power steering pump, as nismoid described. If it doesnt make any difference, try a different mechanic.

Yep. If you wanted to spend more for the sake of reliability, you could get your current turbo rebuilt. Or even by a rooted one and get that rebuilt, so your car isnt off the road for too long.

Check paulr33's PFC faq; http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...powerfc-faq.htm

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ru...ts-t269306.html Some suggestion in ^ thread that they should be run in - so how is it done and when, if at all, should i change then engine oil? FWIW they're stock GTR turbos highflowed.

To talk the the factory ECU you need a CONSULT cable and software for your laptop. It will show what the sensors are displaying and from that you can deduce their condition. I have the PLMS consult cable. It works. http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/consult_if.shtml

That's a big call. If the device is solid then it will have no ability to absorb vibration. We should really call them harmonic dampeners so we can avoid the "balancing" red herring (tho IIRC on some motors they have counterwieghts which is probably where the balancer name comes from). Even a perfectly balanced motor needs a harmonic dampener, as every crank will resonate, any every crank gets hit with by conrods. Of course under certain circumstances (maybe drag only) you can get away with weird stuff.... Also i'd be concerned that the rb26 and rb25 cranks have different resonant frequencies and unless the harmonic dampener is equally good at dampening the frequency of the rb25 crank, an rb26 dampener might not work well. Whoever's got both cranks should hang them up and tap them with a hammer to see if they produce the same note...if they do the 26 dampener should be fine. ^^^ all theory, so could be BS

Since your engine builder has suggested that turbo - use it. If you dont have faith in your engine builder - go somewhere else and use whatever turbo they suggest. If you dont follow your engine builders advice they have an out if there's a problem, and there's more likely to be a problem as other stuff like headwork, cams etc will be selected to work well together. Throwing a random, potentially missmatched piece of kit into the mix is not a good approach.

I had 335fr 345rr and moved to 355fr 345rr - i like it a LOT better. Only got a few laps in at Wakefield before the rear turbo let go, but i'm sure it will be significantly faster. When i asked about height the gurus said make sure you have 10mm higher at the front (most important) and then that 355 front was optimal. I also got my car corner weighted (and aligned of course). I figure do it once do it properly, but if your current suspension is not up to standard it might be worth getting that sorted before the corner weighting.

From what i remember from other posts you have to use the R33 synchos but to be able to do that you need a number of other parts, and it ends quite expensive. Do a search and you'll find the info.

You're doing it wrong. Start with a target power figure or budget, and the hardware will then fall out from that. Dont start with the hardware first....

Most ppl with GTRs go with same size all round as they are front heavy and understeer, so except for cosmetic reasons its not worth going fatter at the back. ~255s are often ok without rolling but different makes of 255s have different tread widths, which might be surprising to you. For Falken 615s in 255 i rolled the rears, but other 255s are ok without it.

You must have LSD in good condition at the front. I have heard it makes LSD operate like they're "tighter", so less friendly but better lock up.

Other than the time and frustration there's not that much to it. Just take some pictures as you go so you can remember how to put it back together. Do you have the workshop manual on pdf?

The $137 makita was fine. I used a single stone tip which didnt seem to wear at all, and a "flappy" one that seemed to wear quickly. I guess a carbide burr would have been quicker but i didnt have much material to remove.

Or leave it until one of them burst? Unfortunately that mightent be far away since its a 32.