MrStabby

I've got the adjustable bushes, but even with them i'm only around factory, 3.5 degs.

Only problem i had with my whiteline adjustables was that the ends of the front bar touched the driveshafts, so they needed a bit of grinding. Other than that, all good.

Has he tried re-running the learning procedure as per the manual i posted above? It says "this process must be done after the installation of Profec, and after any changes are made to the characteristics of the wastegate spring, or out put power of the engine (IE turbo size, intercooler)". As far as i can tell in my case the Profec is working as designed and i'm just hitting the overboost protection because i've changed the turbos. I just didnt know this was required before i posted.

I'm certainly looking forward to being touched up by GToyboy tomorrow morning.....along with a bunch of other blokes he's looking after. What a man whore! BTW GT, we'll need to re-train my EBC first so i'll be there early. Wanna play with my cam gears? +1 for GT being a dude

It might be better to have it hidden to help keep the cops off your back.

Yeah the wheel disintegrated, and i removed a fair bit of ex-turbine rubble from in front of the cat matrix (200 ci metalcat). There were no bits stuck in the front of the matrix itself, but i guess they could be lodged further down. I'll take a look at that if the EBC re-training doesnt work.

Remember decat is illegal for the street, and its expensive if you get caught. Cant remember which state it was but someone posted about a $4500 fine recently. Besides which it makes the pollution from you car much worse, so you've got to be a bit of a prick to run one...

Ok both turbo actuators are moving in unison, so it looks like they're ok. The EBC unit is a greddy profec, I found some instructions HERE So i guess i'll just go through the setup procedure again. It does have a safety feature that drops boost back down to stock level, so i must be hitting that. Thanks again.

Stock turbos, no damage to motor, 13 psi, conservative tune, 11.5 AFR. The turbos were probably 118,000kms old (supposed to be replaced at 100,000 according to Nissan).

Fulcrum do the Tein stuff. http://www.fulcrumsuspensions.com.au/

Yeah its a 32 GTR (look left :-) The actuators came off the old turbos (which were working) but the spring in one did seem stiffer than the spring in the other. I do have two spare actuators, but i'm not sure of the condition. So what do you think is happening? Could it be that when the wastegate opens it snaps open all way so bleeds off too much exhaust? To test, i guess i should apply vacuum (or boost?) to each actuator and watch how the rod moves, right? What tool would I use to apply the signal and where do i get it? BTW - thanks all for the input.

Dead turbos were recently replaced with highflows and xforce dumps by an amateur (me). Giving it a thrash for the first time at the track today - in third the boost is normal (currently 13psi) until 6000rpm then it drops straight down to ~ 8psi. In fourth it the same thing happens at about 5500rpm. Happens every time like clockwork. Boost gauge just falls back to 8 and engine feels really soft. EBC has a greddy box in the cabin and a profec box in the engine bay....Any ideas what would cause this?

Be VERY careful with what you say to police, even if you think they're there to help you. Pretty much any lawyer will tell you to say nothing to the police. You may have already screwed yourself a bit, but dont say ANYTHING more to the police now (or ever really) without a lawyer present. Remember you're not a law expert, and many things you may assume about the law will be WRONG. Also be careful about what u post on internet forums, ie your first post = FAIL. Edit it now. Good luck.

Have you confirmed this works yourself? There was some talk that the alloy used for turbines is not magnetic, but i cant remember if it ever got confirmed or denied.

Rods? That's a mistake right? If you going to 340 you dont need them, and if you're changing rods that means engine out and you might as well be doing a full rebuild....

Also, if any cylinders are down, squirt some oil in and re-try the test. If the compression goes up when using the oil, its rings, if it doesnt its valves or headgasket.

I think there are limitations with what you can do with the material - they have to run finer air low passages and therefore flow less. If you look at the 200 cell metal substrate cats the holes that the air flows through are relatively big. On the ceramic i've seen the holes look like pinholes. I'd guess ceramic it too brittle to be made as thin as metal.

On my 32 GTR, i - disconnected one of the hard lines from the steering rack (you should use a flare nut spanner), and let it drain out - reconnect pipe, fill reservoir to top mark - turn wheels from full lock one side to full lock the other side back and fourth three to four times (this is how you bleed it) - re-check level and top up if required But yeah if any of the high pressure pipes are leaking or blistered, pull them out and take them to enzed/pritek to make you up a replacement.

This is from the metal cat site, so its hardly unbiased, but its a start. "This especially holds true to the Magic , 'Xforce' and other 'new brands that continually enter the market under aspiring 'New Name Brand' companies. Why not as an exercise call them and ask them to fax you through their EPA/CARB/Euro test results from manufacturing factory? UPDATE : Credit to Xforce , they have now deemed their cat ‘For Race Use Only’ . "

1. Replace anything that's worn out (tie rods, bushes etc) 2. Definitely sway bars. 3. Are you sure the ride height, alignment and corner weights are ok? If not get them done as well. 4. Think about softer suspension - some of the jap stuff is too stiff and will cause you to loose traction if you hit a bump mid corner. Softer should give you a better ride of course. Post up the specs of your coils in SK's spring rate thread to see where your at, and take it from there. 5. Dont forget tyres...

What's the spring rate? 10kgs for the front is insane (too stiff for track use), and some of those brands come with 12s..... If D2 and G4 are crappy shit so is K sport. Next step up would probably been Tein super street - some sponsors carry them. I havent looked at prices for a long time but probably only ~$300 more for a set.

+1 I need to know this - i had one split in two (might have been when my rear turbo let go) and want to replace it.

That doesnt make sense to me - if it doesnt restrict airflow it is not going to affect power. You've assumed velocity is constant, which is not true. Each section of the intake path introduces pressure loss (except the compressor of course!) and in some cases the loss introduced by a particular section is negligible, which is what Gary is saying. Checking the boost either side will tell you if there has been pressure loss. Lower pressure = less air mass = less power. If the piping into and out of the throttle are the same ID as the throttle, there's unlikely to be a change of much gain. If you're changing plenum to a larger ID, its likely to help. Are you studying fluid dynamics at the moment? IIRC that's where this stuff is covered. Now back on topic: Warlord you're a nut, but in a good way. The car is very nice.

The service manual states: 4.2 liters for oil only change, or 4.6 liters with oil filter. It also states that the low level mark on the dipstick is 3.5l and the high mark is 4.5 l. Oil cooler wont make any difference to the fill unless you drain it, or the valve is broken and it just drains under gravity. AFAIK everyone with the stock sump uses pretty much 5 liters. Are you SURE you have a stock sump?

Think about it - that extra oil is not available for the oil pump pickup, because its already been pumped. Coolers make no difference to starvation AFAICT.