DaGr81

so i started the car and held the off button but nothing happened LOL wtf!! cold button? the blue one? its down to 18c but still hot as, sux coz its getting real hot nowadays + i cant believe it needs a regas so quick!!

cheers for that, how about the not engaging into 1st and reverse when the air con is on for long periods? this got anything to do with the clutch? coz it was new heavy duty from exedy as well

ok when im idling and i turn on my air con, the car revs up to 1500rpm, then drops to 700rpm like it does that quick goes up and down up and down until i turn it off or wait until it settles down, which it does after a while, also its only blowing hot air now (could need a re-gas, but that was done only just a year ago how come its gone so quick), and sometimes when i press mode to skip through where i want air blowing it makes a clicking sound loud and for atleast 30 seconds, heater works good though, although last time i used my a/c was back in april lol and thats when every time i used the a/c the gears were hard to get into, especially 1 and reverse LOL someone help ^_^ stupid climate control

its a bump to be movved into right section

bump cmon, the 17" has been sold only the 19" left its not getting used at all just sitting on my desk 200ono be quick gogogo located in west hoxton nsw

bump

also will s14 5 stud rears or r32 5 stud rear hubs be any problems? or will i need something extra

ok people a few questions which i searched but couldnt get any clear answers the front hubs bolt right in the rears? what parts do i need? people have said there is problems with the brake pedal etc, do i need to upgrade the brake master cylinder? brake booster? anything like that? will i need all the hand brake cables etc obviously the conversion comes with a brake upgrade also, so new front calipers + rotors + rears, how about brake lines? will i need the ones from the turbo model? btw the car is my r33 gts25t (4 stud but turbo motor )

need a set of 4 stud rims under 400 bux to suit skyline with tyres and in sydney asap cheers ta

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as per title in need of r34 gtt rims and a set of 4 stud rims (<$300 would be good) to fit a non turbo skyline 114.3 etc pm me everyone also in need of rear hubs (with all the associated parts to make the 5 stud conversion a simple bolt on procedure cheers)

hmm this sounds good, how do you get to settings? i got the parameter display screen, press back and it lets you choose which parameters to display, back then its how many parameters to display then back and its like back to map tracer :S edit: found it

hmm ive seen an engine mounted surge tank before..... high octane 4 made sense, not defectable etc... also ive seen someone cover up their surge tank lines etc with sheet metal in the boot... looks nice and can be removed to access the fuel lines etc, whether these are legal or not i wouldnt have a clue...

378 aussie roughly + delivery via slide would put it close to 500 bux , how about a custom made one from micks metal craft? oil catch can/radiator overflow/washer bottle in one 3 in one , i seen one on a 180sx now thats hot!

hmm, but what sort of valve springs and guides etc, which brands? theres some that are solid and some hydrolic what should i be going for? theres also some with more lift than others.... i might have to read up heaps on this

also would it be wise to have the head done at the same time? dont really know what to brands i should go for to put into the head, ultimately looking for it to handle shifts at 7500-8000rpm without loosing bottom end power so something that carries right through the entire rev range, had a look at some of it, looks like its really technical when it comes to the head....what is everyone else with a built head running?

question: will 1 shop (i.e. the one i decide to go to whateva it is) be able to do all the machining? like do they specialise or something or its just they do the whole lot? Also balancing...where is everyone getting their crank rods pistons and everything else balanced? What should i do to the crank shaft in order to get it nice and strong.... cheers to everyone who has made a positive input to this thread, everyones got their own opinions ofcourse but some people are just so negative... (i vote to move them to boostcruising.com)

hope they are good might ring around and check get some quotes

ok so all this is going to have to be done slowly and in my own time etc etc, due to that if anyone could give me the names of a few good machine shops that will do the rb30 bottom end for me (the works honing and all that stuff) cheers. i'll see how it goes after i get it all machined up and ready.... should whether i try some of it myself or the whole lot will depend on how much im home (gaurantee that there will be a diy if i try it ), will the rb30 block fit in my skyline to take to a machine shop lol? (gonna have to pull out the passengers and back seat me thinks....

exactly what i was thinking, 50 - 100 dollars doesnt matter much if you stuff up the block give it another shot, ive been around some shops and they were asking a minimum of 5000 dollars (headwork included) + the price of buying the bottom end parts this will probably be alot cheaper, looking at maybe 3000 total in parts and machining , which rb30 block would i be buying so i dont need to tap (make) the holes for vct or something :S

yeah i was about to buy the rb30 bottom end and go from there, so if i do f*ck up i still got my original engine in place

how hard would it be to build the bottom end yourself? im soon to be going through the rb30 conversion (going to take my time on it though do bits and pieces myself etc, and i was thinking maybe to save some dough i could assemble it myself? (with the help of a mechanic friend ofcourse) the only thing would be is id have to get the block prepped and crankshaft balanced as well as the rods and pistons balanced, then assemble it together and then get take it to work shop get them to hook it all up i.e. take out old block put in new one........what do you guys reckon it can be done or is it a total waste of time and not worth the hassle?

i havent updated this in a while. done a few things since my turbo conversion. had cooling to take care of so i threw in a nismo 62.5 degree thermo, which i got rid of a week later because it was keeping temps at 68 all day long, now i binned the stock radiator and have a just jap item in there looks good and does a good job temps hover around 78 which is a good temp. i binned the standard dump pipe and front pipe, also from just jap is a 3" split dump/front pipe, only thing left to do now is fix up that exhaust system, as i mentioned earlier its really stuffed "meant to be a 3" hks super dragger" but the cat is only 2" and the pipe to the tip is all different diameters, hard to believe that it came with it like that from japan, got quoted 350 for a pipe change (keeping the hks tip) and i'll probably end up with a xforce cat. power output is around the 180rwkw mark at the moment not sure on torque but once i fix the exhaust problem i will dyno again and post up the sheet. was also about to do the brake conversion when i eyed an 8piston caliper kit which im really keen on so ive sold off all the brake parts i had and now will get the 8 pistons (too big but it looks nice ) 5 stud hubs are in the garage as well as the rear brake parts (will need r34gtt rims until im ready for some nice enkei's) only one thing left from here....ive been saving for about 5 months for this.........RB30

ok heres some info i got from a british mag, convert it all yourselves btw food for thought r33 gtr in england 8000 pounds (what would the average salary in england be?) i think the ksport kits look the best, although they may all be coming from the same company they just look much better anyway the data (ksport kit with ds2500 pads) as follows FROM 100MPH - 0 (APPROXIMATELY 160KM/H - 0) _______________DISTANCE(ft)______TIME(s) RUN 1 __________369.4_____________5.1 RUN 2 __________364.4_____________5.2 RUN 3 __________351.5_____________5.0 RUN 4 __________351.3_____________4.7 RUN 5 __________349.2_____________5.0 RUN 6 __________333.6_____________4.9 RUN 7 __________338.2_____________4.8 RUN 8 __________328.1_____________4.7 RUN 9 __________326.1_____________4.8 RUN 10_________ 325.2_____________4.4 excuse all the lines i couldnt make a table any other way :S peak and average g-force's were all around 1 and 1.1 respectively, while at the same time the driver managed to shave 1.7 seconds off his best lap time from braking later

how are they for cold braking on the street? there was someone further up in the post that had the g4 ones, done any cold braking tests?