Pezhead

Hey that was me. I saw a Burgundy R33 GTR driving down Lane Cove Rd this morning too. A few GTR's in N-Ryde.

Wow the R33 driver was pretty aggressive! I have to wonder too - how bad was that "rub" into the apex of the turn. But given the lap times on the R34 and R35 were better, he did a good job during the race. Nice brag'n rights for those of us with "old school" GTR's now

My experience with a lightened flywheel suggests it will rev faster but bog down more. I had a 240Z with a 8lb flywheel and it would rev so fast but you had to really slip the clutch to get moving. And a 240Z only weighs about 2/3 what the skyline does, of course without as much power. A lightened flywheel doesn't have as much momentum built up on the revs so there is less to transfer to the drivetrain when you want to get moving. Once moving you will feel the difference in acceleration. I'm really curious on this too. The latest HPI Skyline special has an article on going 11 sec 1/4. It says to take your GTR to the rev limiter and hold it there, count to five and dump the clutch. Sounds like a drivetrain failure wanting to happen to me. So do most folks here launch between 4-6 k revs? How much difference does it make on your 60 foot times if you really launch hard? Keenly interested too. thx.

Naw, I know the noise the straight cut reverse gears make. This is a big vibration that sounds like something slipping. It is when I slip the clutch to get power and 4wd kicks in. But like I said it doesn't do it in fwd motion only reverse, so I don't think it is the clutch. Almost sounds like grinding but kind of muffled. I'm puzzled.

Hey folks, I have a steep driveway and had to reverse up it yesterday. The 4WD kicks in but then makes a vibration and noise whenever the clutch is disengaged and power applied. It is very odd, it never does that in forward motion. Hard to tell where it is coming from as the vib transfers through the frame. It's an R33 GTR V-spec. Would like to hear other's thoughts. thx

Hey Adz, I bought my GTR back in August. I has an OS Giken twin plate in it. Now I've been driving stick shifts all my life and I'm nearly 40. I was so surprised that it took me a month to drive it smooth. Mine doesn't rattle, but sure engages fast. Your foot just gets used to it. I don't even have to think about it now. I was the same as you at first, really hating hills and worring at stop lights with lots of traffic. Now, I drive mine daily including a stop and go through a couple blocks of bad traffic in the daily commute. Hang in there and hopefully you just have to train your clutch foot. Good luck.

I was under the car today finishing up my Oil cooler install and noticed that my tyres only clear by about 10mm. Thats 10mm at full lock to the mud guard and about 10 mm to the sway bar (the part that is squished for clearance). These are on my R33 GTR with 275 35 18 Toyos and R34 GTR rims. I doubt that 285 would fit or would be so close - maybe 5 mm clearance! Just wanted to give you some more info.

Near Hornsby AutoOne or Repco has some I think. I'm usually after the 300V so don't notice the 4100 but I did see Motul at one of them. I think it was the AutoOne.

Its got a big trust imitation intercooler, 550 cc Nismo injectors, Autronic SM2, HKS EVC and 044 pump with rising rate reg & surge tank. Tuners said that the fuel system works great and held constant 12:1 at full boost (raising from 14:1 at low end). I'm a bit stumped because the tuners thought the turbos should come in earlier too. I'm also getting terrible mileage too. Car was getting about 250k's per fill (filled at 1/4 tank) and now is only marginally better at about 280. I've read up and most folks are getting a lot more with same or more power. Could this be an exhaust restriction? Thanks.

Thanks Fellas. Sorry for the panic earlier, I read a few posts where people were suggesting the Magnet check and turns out it doesn't work at all. I'm a bit tired from working in the hot garage - what a sweat box! I can't really get to see the rears unless I unbolt the dump pipes and a lot more stuff so going to wait for an exhaust upgrade or something before I do that. I did check the cam gears and they are HKS adjustable. Intake is set to 7 degrees advance, 0 advance on exhaust. I wanted to check the cams too but thought I'd check the lift through the oil filler before I take off the valve cover. I used my digital calipers to measure the distance from the bottom of the oil filler seat to the cam lobe. Lift looks like about 9.8 mm but could be off since my crude method of measurement. Don't get me wrong. The car makes great power and drives terrific. I'm trying to go through everything now and ensure that the machine is in tip top shape and do the mods necessary to ensure the longevity of the motor and parts. 1) add 19 row oil cooler since it doesn't have one at all and oil hits 90 degrees just doing street driving 2) big radiator upgrade - the M-spec Alum version from here 3) gotta do something about intake temps. temp is 50-60 degrees off boost on a 20-25 degree day. Engine bay is very hot and pods are pulling in the hot air. Want to enclose the pods, but they are bigger than normal and will require a lot of custom box building. 4) cat has split open due to road rash (is the lowest part of the car) 5) new Trust/Greddy suspension on the way (but back ordered darn!) to get the car back up in height to solve cat prob and even out camber on the front wheels 6) Oil pressure and water temp gauges so I can keep a better eye on things I think the tune I bought it with was a bit off. UAS was able to significantly increase the power without sacrifice to mid-range. It was only making 180 rwkw @ 18 psi when I drove it in and now at 253 rwkw @ 17 psi (interesting 1 psi drop from original tune). Even they say their dyno reads a bit low compared to others. Seb said the car made 320 kw @ 21 psi. I originally thought the high boost was set there but it is not. By the way. Low boost @ 1 bar is fully in before 4000 rpm and high boost 17/18 psi all in before 4400 rpm. Does that sound 'bout right for N1's? Trying to make sure I'm confident in everything before I try turning up any more boost. I've had sports cars before but nothing like the GTR (which is why I had to have one). I knew buying a modified car would force me to climb the steep learning curve on import tuner's. Thanks again for your help guys. I'm up for the challenge.

Thanks for the quick reply fellas. I've amended my earlier post. I'm still trying to figure out why the car is low on power. I guess I was a bit hot too from working two hours just to get the exhaust shield off but still can't see the turbo serial no's. No excuse for me. Should I check the exhaust sides too? I'm reassured by the shop that did the work that they are N1's with reworked stock housings. Since the original owner ran high boost all the time I guess these must be at least steel or they'd blown by now. I did get the original receipts but they don't list the actual parts since some were bought second hand. The original worked motor was purchased and freshened before it went into my car. Don't have the original parts receipts. Maybe I'm just paranoid, the car does have most of the other goodies listed, but a few are missing - oil cooler and alum radiator that were originally on the ad.

Hey Turbo experts, I need you to confirm this. I bought an R33 GTR from a fellow SAU member in August. I was told that the engine was totally worked over and had N1 turbos. I just had a tune and it didn't make the power it should have. In fact the tuner said the turbo's came on like stock. I've removed the heat shield but can't see any Serial Tags on the Turbos. Attached are some pictures of the compressor side. I used a magnet against the wheel and it will stick to the shaft/nut but not to the impeller. So that means these are stock ceramics right? And I've been running 1 bar low boost and 1.2 high boost. I'm a bit furious now! But I guess at least I found out before the ceramics let go and ruin my motor. [EDIT] I think my may have been too quick to jump. I tested it again but with a multi-meter this time and the wheels conduct so they aren't ceramic. Odd that the magnet didn't stick. They must be some hybrid alloy that's non-ferris like stainless or perhaps titanium. I'd still like a confirmation just for peace of mind in my assessment. Thanks for the correction. Do I have egg on my face. Too much to learn.

I just put 275 35 18's Toyo Transas Cruz on my R33 GTR that has R34 rims. Mine is VERY low and have no probs at all with clearance or rubbing.

Hey that was me! Except my R33 GTR is White and yes it is too low. I'm getting some new suspension to raise it back up a bit. It has destroyed the lower lip License Plate: GD2ILA

I was doing some similar research and found these. I have no idea if they are any good, I was just googling to see what is out there. (Not sure if it uses its own sensors or ODBII) http://www.plxdevices.com/products/dm100/ (ODBII based) http://www.palmerperformance.com/

Oh Darn. I just ordered the Type-S from UAS - so no free in car adjustment for me. Also check the spring rates. Mine are for a R33 GTR. They come in two spring rate options. I went for the 8F 6R option but you can get a 12F 10R. Sounds like the previous post had the latter.

Thanks. That was exactly what I was looking for. I expect it to be a budget performer at this price but wanted to get a feel for how much to expect from Toyo's if I move up the range. I've only put 20 km's on this set and no wet weather driving yet. I'm also a very bad index as I don't push the car at all on the street and only do 14 km back and forth to work mostly. Once I get a feel I'll post something in the tyres stickie thread. At a minimum I'll be taking the car to Power Cruise on these tyres so will get a performance feel then.

I just bought a set because my GTR wore the insides of my Yokohama's out to the cords. The rears were pretty well gone in the centre so was time anyways. I got a good deal on these in 275 35 18 set of four for $920. I just wanted some street tread and didn't want to go for semis (I already have some track slicks). The sales guy said he imports these from Japan so they really don't sell them here. Does anyone know anything 'bout these? I assume they are pretty hard and all. I'm not real concerned as I'm very mild mannered on the street. Just want to know more about these tyres. Thanks.

The guys here are correct. I work in Marketing and under the Fair Trading / Trade Practices Act what he did is illegal. I find that if I tell people like that I know my rights and they had better shape up or I will report. Know the process. You have to give them a chance to correct the situation before you can appeal. But if they mislead you then you have the right to notify the appropriate trade office. Hope it all worked out for you.

What condition is the steering wheel is it the whole wheel or just the airbag? Pics please. Thanks.

Do you have the electric antenna & does it still work? If so Interested. Thanks.

I think I will do it too. I've seen footage on the Ignition DVD (Ep #25 just out). Looks like a lot of fun. From what I can guess, looks like the "Off Street Races" are simple line up and go. No stagger and doesn't like like it is timed. Basically just a king of the hill race with the all out fastest winning. Folks here will be happy to know that an 8 second R32 GTR won it in Qld. Cruise sessions look to just be free form open track where you can drive the track (not at full speed) and have some fun shooting down the straight or around a corner before slowing down approaching the other cruisers. Looks like has some exhibition stuff - jet drag truck in the QLD event, show -n- shine, etc. I see it as $120 for 3 days is pretty cheap to have some fun. anyways - hope to see you folks there. Look for my White R33 GTR. Cheers.

Hey fellow Skylines. Is anyone interested in entering power cruise? DETAILS: http://www.powercruise.net/12/index.php?page=entry_form WHEN: Feb28 - Mar2 WHERE: Eastern Creek PRICE: $120 entry before Jan 7 / $180 after Jan 7 / $220 after Feb 22 Dyno Comps additional $30 WHATS INCLUDED: This includes full weekend admission fee for the driver into Powercruise® and entry into the Carline Mufflers Powercruise® cruising sessions, Powerskid™ Comp, Burnout Comp, Off-Street Racing, Drifting Comp and the Show & Shine. I bought my GTR back in August and have been spending my time going over my car making sure everything is right before I take it to the track. For me this is an entertaining event where I can flog the car a bit on the cruise sessions and off-street racing without being too hard on my car. I'm seriously considering this and a few additional SAU folk joining in would just push me over the edge. So whattya think? GD2ILA

Dick Smith's has a set with a .5 mm drill but that's the smallest I've seen in a retail store. 12 piece high speed PCB drill bits for small hobby applications. Sizes are 0.5, 0.8, 1.0, 1.2, and 1.5mm diameter. You may have to try a speciality machinist tool shop. What are you trying to do? The drills get very brittle when they get down that small and you can't just stick them in a normal chuck.

I bought my R33 V-Spec about a month and half ago. Fantastic car! Best I've ever driven. I've been wanting one for yonks! I daily drive mine about 15k's. I also found that daily driving it does chew through the petrol (of course mine is pretty heavily modified). I does ok on longer trips though as long as you stay off the boost. Best luck!